John & Kristie http://www.johnandkristie.com/ Copyright 2010 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 13:37:46 -0800 http://www.movabletype.org/?v=3.34 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Castle Hotel Auf Schoenburg EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: OBERWESEL, GERMANY :: While vacationing on the romantic Rhine River, an enchanting land of legends and fairy tales, we decided it was well worth the splurge to stay two nights in a real-life castle!

The Schoenburg is perched high above the town of Oberwesel, and has watched over the river valley since the 12th century. The castle was half-destroyed by the French in 1689, but was restored over several decades and at a great expense in the late 19th century. Since 1957, it has served as a hotel and restaurant for tourists wanting to experience the romanticized life of medieval nobility.

We had an incredible view of the Rhine River and two other castles from our room, along with a private balcony overlooking the gorgeous courtyard. There was also an original toilet off the balcony. I lifted the lid and saw it emptied onto a bare patch of ground about thirty feet below. A roll of toilet paper next to the seat invited me, but I preferred to use the toilet in the bathroom with modern plumbing and privacy instead.

The staff was always very kind and they were dressed in period outfits. The included breakfasts were amazing, but there wasn't much on the expensive gourmet dinner menu that appealed to Kristie. We dined in charming Bacharach instead, enjoying the opportunity to make another scenic drive across the castle's bridge and down the steep, narrow, twisting road into town.

From atop the castle's stony ramparts, the sunset view of the Rhine River snaking through the vineyards and villages was absolutely beautiful. Definitely a prime smooching spot! We loved our stay at Schoenburg Castle - a very memorable highlight of our trip!

Next post: Burg Eltz!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/castle_schoenburg.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/castle_schoenburg.html travel Mon, 24 Aug 2009 13:37:46 -0800 St. Goar & Bacharach EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: ST. GOAR & BACHARACH, GERMANY :: The last two days of our European vacation were spent on the most scenic stretch of the Rhine River, between Koblenz and Rudesheim. Along this major medieval thoroughfare, over thirty castles are perched upon the steep, green hillsides of the rolling river valley. Some of the castles are in ruin, but many still stand as museums and hotels. Beneath the castles, several charming towns are strung along the river. We explored the cobblestoned streets of Boppard, St. Goar and Oberwesel, but the most picturesque town was Bacharach (where most of these photos were taken).

In St. Goar, we saw the world's largest cuckoo clock and the world's largest beer stein. Inside a year-round Christmas shop, a very nice, elderly lady had no trouble convincing me to sample a dozen free shots of brandy from the vineyards on the surrounding hills. Apparently the tactic worked. Before I stumbled out of the store, a large case of the delicious wine was being shipped back home!

Next post: Castle Hotel Auf Shoenburg!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/st_goar_bacharach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/st_goar_bacharach.html travel Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:26:05 -0800 Gelnhausen EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: GELNHAUSEN, GERMANY :: From Kraków, we boarded an early morning flight to Frankfurt. After picking up our car from the airport, we experienced our first drive on Germany's famous autobahns. The dash on the Benz displayed 155 kph (about 96 mph), but we were still being passed. Fahrvergnügen!

Our first stop was in the charming medieval town of Gelnhausen, where I lived between the ages of four through seven, some of the most formative years of my life. My dad was stationed here between 1980-1983, serving in the Army's 3rd Armored Division as an M1 Abrams tank mechanic.

We lived in Coleman Village, an American family housing area about a mile from the town. My first childhood memories are from Gelnhausen. I remember my first bike, snowball, bee-sting, school, sister, beer and kiss, along with many, many days of happiness and wonder. I had been yearning to revisit Gelnhausen for most of the 26 years I had been away.

As a toddler, I used to walk with my mom to and from the center of town on a scenic path along a tree-lined river. Downtown Gelnhausen is filled with narrow, cobblestoned streets and colorful timbered buildings, much as I remember it. Every corner is still worthy of a postcard. Flowers in the windows invited us into little shops filled with handcrafted toys, fresh bread and ice cream. I had an incredible time retracing the footsteps of my cherished childhood, and sharing that experience with Kristie.

Next stop: The Rhine!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gelnhausen.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gelnhausen.html travel Mon, 24 Aug 2009 11:32:11 -0800 Wieliczka Salt Mine EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: WIELICZKA, POLAND :: On our way back to Kraków, we stopped to tour the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Normally, we wouldn't be too excited to spend a couple hours deep underground, but just about everything seems fun and uplifting after a day at a death camp.

The Wieliczka Salt Mine actually proved to be quite interesting. It is one of the oldest mines in the world and is included on UNESCO's list of World Heritage sites. For over 700 years, miners used their hands and simple tools to carve an enormous labyrinth of caverns stretching over 300 kilometers long and over 1000 feet deep. To pass the time, the miners and artists sculpted impressive statues and an entire cathedral in the translucent rock. The "tile" floors, the "brick" walls, and even the "crystal" in the chandeliers are made of pure salt.

The air in the caverns is well-ventilated and kept very pure by the natural salinity of the environment. An actual hospital exists in the lower levels where patients can recover from respiratory ailments. The chambers are also famous for their accoustics, and concerts are regularly held there. Some extremely large caverns are famous for containing the first underground hot air balloon ride and the first underground bungee jump. Famous visitors to the mines include Copernicus, Goethe, Mendeleev, John Paul II, Bill Clinton, and of course, John & Kristie!

Next post: Gelnhausen, Germany!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/wieliczka_salt_mine.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/wieliczka_salt_mine.html travel Sun, 23 Aug 2009 12:22:31 -0800 Auschwitz-Birkenau EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: OŚWIĘCIM, POLAND :: Among the symbols of the holocaust, the sign above the gate to Auschwitz concentration camp perhaps best encapsulates the evil and deception of the Nazis. The phrase "arbeit macht frei" translates to "work makes you free." Of course this message, in the literal sense, was a cruel lie. It was part of a carefully planned campaign to conceal the systematic extermination of 17 million people from the victims, the Germans, and the entire world.

We walked under this sign to enter Auschwitz I, the first of three camps constructed in the area that included Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz. The buildings at Auschwitz are now a museum, but were originally used to imprison, torture and kill dissidents, intellectuals and enemy soldiers. The tragic experience of the victims is portrayed via haunting photographs and artifacts, including large rooms filled with countless shoes, eyeglasses, suitcases, and human hair. The vile torture devices and cells have been preserved, including starvation rooms, standing rooms and suffocation rooms. These were later used to experiment with Zyklon-B, the cyanide-based pesticide that was first used at Auschwitz and soon used in gas chambers at Birkenau.

Although there were two crematoriums and room for 30,000 prisoners at Auschwitz I, its capacity was soon exceeded. Construction began at nearby Birkenau, the largest concentration camp built by the Nazis, where approximately 1.1 million people would be exterminated. As with most concentration camps, the majority of these victims were Jewish. 960,000 Jews and 140,000 ethnic Poles were killed at Birkenau alone, for no other reason than their ethnicity, religion, sexual orientation, or a disability.

Trains would unload victims directly in camp, where most of the women, children, elderly and sick were immediately directed to "shower" in the gas chambers. Healthy men were forced to hard labor, 12 hours per day while starving. Their average life expectancy was six months.

Witnessing the immense size of Birkenau had the greatest impact on us. We walked the full kilometer of railroad track that crosses the compound, passing the remnants of 300 barracks used to house over 200,000 prisoners. At the height of its operation, Birkenau could gas and cremate 20,000 people per day.

Although it's deeply depressing, it's absolutely critical that places like Auschwitz-Birkenau are preserved to be experienced by current and future generations. Just as we celebrate the greatest of human achievements, it's equally important to be reminded of our capacity for hate and evil, so that we never allow such abhorrent events to occur again.

Next post: Wieliczka Salt Mine
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/auschwitz-birkenau.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/auschwitz-birkenau.html travel Sun, 23 Aug 2009 11:16:36 -0800 Kraków EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 10 :: KRAKOW, POLAND :: After Kristie completed her Business Week program in Gdynia, we flew south to Kraków where we enjoyed two days of fantastic sightseeing in and around the city. Kraków is the former capital of Poland, where ancient kings and priests ruled from the castle and cathedral on Wawel Hill. The city is full of history and culture, much of which is proudly preserved in its buildings and traditions. Although Warsaw is the country's current capital, most Poles believe Kraków is where the nation's heart still resides.

We stayed at the Sheraton, and our room had a great view of the Vistula River and Wawel Castle. The most popular attractions, including the Main Market Square, were a very short walk away. We had access to the convenient Club Lounge, a private area with complimentary food and beverages, including fresh fruit for Kristie and endless beer for me!

Our first destination was the climbable tower of St. Mary's Basilica. At the top, we took in a 360-degree view of the city and surrounding landscape. Directly below us was Europe's largest medieval square, Rynek Główny, where vendors, performers and tourists were just starting to emerge. The square would soon become packed with entertainment and shops that were fun to watch and explore.

In addition to being a major tourist attraction, Kraków is also home to several universities. The population is very young and relatively cosmopolitan, and thus, there was a large variety of restaurants, including a great vegetarian place we found called Green Way. Kraków is also notorious for having the largest concentration of pubs and nightclubs of any UNESCO World Heritage site. We saw ads for bars that didn't open until 11:00 PM and closed at 7:00 AM the next day! Unlike Northern Poland, English was often displayed on signs and spoken fluently in Kraków, making it much easier for us to find our way and ask for information.

In order to receive a quick history and cultural overview of Kraków, Kristie insisted we join a bike tour. This was a lot of fun and very informative. Our guide narrated our trip as we pedaled through the charming city streets and parks. The stops included Poland's oldest university (where Copernicus and John Paul II enrolled), Kraków's legendary fire-breathing dragon, the remnants of the old Jewish ghetto, Oscar Schindler's apartment and factory, and recognizable locations from Spielberg's movie (which we watched again a few days prior to leaving for Poland). Before the war, there were 65,000 Jews in Kraków, accounting for 25% of its population. Today, there are approximately 300 Jews in a city of 750,000.

On our second day in Kraków, we hired a private guide to take us to the Auschwitz concentration camp and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Upon returning to the city, we visited Wawel Castle during sunset and walked the Rynek Główny (Main Market Square) again at night. Both were beautiful and romantic. We fell in love with Kraków and wish we had more time there. It's definitely on our list of places to return.

Next post: Auschwitz-Birkenau
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/krakow_poland.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/krakow_poland.html travel Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:48:36 -0800 Gdynia Business Week EUROPEAN VACATION DAYS 3-9 :: GDYNIA, POLAND :: Kristie says, "After volunteering as a Company Advisor (CA) for Washington Business Week for 8+ years, I was intrigued when I heard the news that WBW was planning a program in Gdynia, Poland. I had never been to Europe and didn’t know much about the history or people of Poland at all. I quickly fell in love with the idea of working with youth in Poland and exchanging ideas about capitalism and the free enterprise system.

As soon as I heard the great news that I was selected to be one of the CAs involved in the Gdynia Business Week program, John and I began researching the country and became very excited about planning a trip to Eastern Europe.

While the Business Week program and curriculum was basically the same as it is in the U.S., there were several modifications and adjustments to be made along the way as we learned more about the Polish culture and their business environment. One significant difference was that each of the CAs was partnered with one Polish educator throughout the week. My educator, Kasia Pucylo, was a pleasure to work with and was of great assistance in helping me translate a few business concepts and ideas to the students. While the goal was for the students to speak English the entire time they were in the program, we had some Polish-speaking time occasionally to help us bond as a group, and to brainstorm product and marketing ideas. Our company rule was to immediately translate Polish back to English in order to become proficient and comfortable using English business terminology. After all, this was an academic program and not a camp! ☺

This group of Company Advisors was made up of some of the most dedicated, focused, and engaged individuals that I have ever worked with in my Washington Business Week history. Their support and encouragement, along with the generosity and hospitality of the folks with the City of Gdynia, added such value and richness to my entire experience. Thank you! Kudos to Steve Hyer and Janice Jaworski who worked so hard to coordinate and carry out this amazing program expansion into Poland! Thank you also to Debra Markert for her efforts and coordination with the Seattle-Gdynia Sister City Association.

Working with my students in Company Funique, and learning more about them and how they are similar and different from teenagers in the U.S., was by far the most rewarding and fulfilling aspect of my Gdynia Business Week adventure. These young adults are amazing and inspiring! They hold so much promise for the future of Poland. At the conclusion of the program, my students surprised me with the creative group photo above. Thank you Marek, Monika, Krystian, Marcin, Kamil, Mateusz, Maria, Malgorzata, Karolina, and Jacek!

I can’t think of a better way to first experience Europe, given my personal interests and passion for youth, business entrepreneurship, and education!"

Next stop: Kraków!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdynia_business_week.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdynia_business_week.html travel Fri, 21 Aug 2009 11:49:06 -0800 Hel EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 5 :: HEL, POLAND :: When looking across the sea from the shores of Gdynia, you can just barely spot a strip of land that seems to stretch half-way across the horizon. This narrow peninsula is over 21 miles long and at times is only 300 feet wide. Both sides are lined with sandy beaches, with pockets of forest in between. Tiny towns catering to tourists and world-class windsurfers are strung along the stretch. At the end of the peninsula, there is a place where you can go no further. A town where a single road enters, and no others lead out... This place is Hel.

And I've been there and back!

I actually took a ferry there and enjoyed exploring the little town. There were tons of people crowding the shops and restaurants, and the beaches were packed. I actually wanted to reach the very tip of the peninsula, so I quickly rented a bike and headed through the woods in the general direction I thought I should go.

I immediately started seeing strange structures along the trail I had selected. An old pillbox bunker. A ruined concrete tower. Upon reaching the beach, I saw an area cordoned off by barbed wire, enclosing a large number of military vehicles. I hadn't really studied the maps or guidebooks for this area, so I wasn't sure where I was at. On the beach, I saw the remnants of a mounted artillery bunker, which clearly hadn't been used in a long while. I parked my bike, climbed on top of the bunker, and started to explore the rusted controls.

Soon after, I heard shouts coming from the bunker tunnels beneath me. At first I was relieved, thinking it would be some other tourists. But then something rattled loudly on the huge steel door and it swung open. A soldier stepped out and I just froze. He saw me and then barked some orders down the tunnel. I nearly soiled my pants. Two other soldiers came through the door, gazed down the beach, and then started inspecting the artillery. One soldier unloaded a long belt of large-caliber ammo off his shoulder and layed it on top of the bunker. They noticed me, but just carried on as if I wasn't there. My panic turned to puzzlement. I backed away, worried that perhaps I had entered a military base and these soldiers were a part of a training exercise.

But I knew something was off. Their uniforms had a dated look, although I didn't know how the modern Polish Army dressed. Just to be safe, I smiled, stepped off the battery, and got on my bike, heading back into the forest in a different direction.

I came across another artillery bunker with a larger group of soldiers. Nearby were even more soldiers with German Shepards that were barking around a few old jeeps. They noticed me, but didn't say anything. I kept going, seeking a main road to take me back into town. I encountered another group, and this time I noticed American flags and stars. What in Hel was going on? I now saw other tourists, taking photos and interacting with the soldiers. So I took some photos too, still confused. I biked further and finally came across a large banner that read, "D-DAY IN HEL - DISCOVERY HISTORIA TV". I recognized the Discovery Channel logo. Another jeep passed me, with a couple uniformed guys shouting through a bullhorn and passing out pamphlets. I took one and saw the week's events, apparently including a large-scale re-enactment of D-Day or some other battle on the beaches of Hel. Phew.

Whatever it was, it was pretty impressive. I believe over 400 uniformed volunteers were storming the town and beaches, driving their World War II era vehicles and conducting various exhibitions. In the main town, a convoy of three jeeps parked in front of a restaurant. A few MPs hopped out and detained a drunk GI that was causing problems. It was all an act (I think), and the civilians were getting a kick out of it. Vendors were selling US Army shirts, hats, and other war paraphernalia.

It was a fun and exciting day, topped with another lody (ice cream). Yes, believe it or not, they serve ice cream in Hel. Despite my initial scare and what you might have heard, Hel is actually a very nice place to visit!

Next post: Gdynia Business Week!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/hel_poland.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/hel_poland.html travel Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:44:48 -0800 Toruń EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 4 :: TORUN, POLAND :: Today, I visited Toruń, a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 200 kilometers south of Gdynia. I hired one of the hotel's taxis to drive me. It wasn't cheap, but it was much faster than taking the train. The friendly driver also spoke enough English for us to have an interesting conversation there and back.

Toruń is famous for its medieval architecture and for being the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus. The city was first settled by Polish tribes in the eighth century and later claimed by the Teutonic Knights in 1233. The Knights named the city Thorn and built one of their first castles there. After 200 years of power, the Teutonic Knights were driven out of the city by the local population, which then destroyed most of the castle. Only the toilet tower, a few walls, and some inner chambers remain intact. These were fun to explore, and would have been inaccessable if the entry guard hadn't let me to tag-along for a while with a group of Polish kids on a field trip.

Unlike the Teutonic Castle, many of Toruń's original buildings and fortifications remain standing and well-preserved. The city was spared during World War II and I was glad to see original stained glass windows in St. John's Cathedral (where Copernicus was baptized). I climbed the tight spiral stairs to the top of the tower, passing Poland's third-largest bell and on to a platform with views around the city. I met a rare American couple up there from Chicago, arguing and later smooching in one of the windows.

It was fun exploring the old streets and walls of Toruń. I only had three hours before I had to meet up again with my driver, but I think I made pretty good use of the time. I even made it across the bridge over the Vistula to get a view of the entire city. After all that walking, I treated myself to another lody (ice cream) before my return.

Next post: Hel!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/torun.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/torun.html travel Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:28:53 -0800 Sopot EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 3 :: SOPOT, POLAND :: Today was my first day on my own as Kristie started her Business Week program. I had planned to check out Sopot, a resort town between Gdynia and Gdańsk. Without a car, I walked a mile to the nearest train station (Gdynia Wzgórze św. Maksymiliana) and bought a ticket on the SKM line to Sopot. The trains run every ten minutes or less. It's nothing fancy, but it's a remarkably cheap (about 55 cents) and convenient way to get around. I used my iPhone to track the train's position on Google Maps to make sure I didn't miss my stop, about fifteen minutes down the line.

From the station, it's a little less than a mile to the beach. All along the way, there are a series of beautiful parks and tree-lined boulevards bordered by fancy mansions and immaculate gardens. It's apparent there's a lot of money in Sopot, and it's unlike any other town I saw in Poland. Near the core, the main streets have been converted into pedestrian ways, and there's a large selection of high-end shops and restaurants.

I sought out the traditional treats for lunch, including zapiekanka (pizza baguette) and pivo (beer), followed by a lody (ice cream). The Poles love their lody. There's a stand or two on every block and seemingly every other person has a cone in-hand. The Poles also love a shot of fruit syrup in their beer. I tried a shot of raspberry in mine and it was actually pretty good.

After lunch, I walked along the crowded beach in front of the Grand Sofitel Spa and Resort. Apparently, this is the hot spot for Europe's elite when they want to play and tan on the Baltic. And when it comes to tanning, the Poles are not shy about their bathing suits. Despite their Catholic principles and Northern European complexion, skimpy is the rule. Unfortunately, this applies to the Polish men too.

Sopot is also famous for having the longest pier in Europe. There's an entry fee (about $1) to walk on it. The views are nice, and there are vendors and restaurants along the way. You can also board a fast jet boat or a touristy pirate ship at the end of the pier.

After spending a few hours exploring Sopot, I continued on the train line to Gdańsk, enjoying the evening light and dinner there before finally turning around to return to Gdynia.

Next post: Toruń!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/sopot.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/sopot.html travel Sat, 15 Aug 2009 11:34:54 -0800 Gdańsk EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 2 :: GDANSK, POLAND :: After our tour of Malbork Castle, we were taken to Gdańsk, Poland's third-largest city with over a thousand years of history. Through the centuries, Gdańsk has been a major center of culture and trade between Western and Eastern Europe. Regional powers have long fought for the city's wealth, power and strategic location along the Baltic Sea at the mouth of the Vistula River.

Seventy years ago, on September 1st, 1939, the Germans invaded Gdańsk (then called Danzig) with an attack on the Westerplatte Peninsula, thus starting World War II. Most of the city was bombed by the Germans and later burned by the Soviet "liberators." Many of the charming Dutch-style buildings in "Old Town" are only about 50 years old, rebuilt after the war. The architectural style was imported through Gdańsk's frequent trade with Holland.

St. Mary's Church is one of the structures that survived the war. Built in 1343, it's the largest brick cathedral in the world, standing over 250 feet tall with enough room inside to contain 25,000 worshippers. We walked under the lofty vaults, impressed by the height and light of the space. We also imagined the awe-inspiring effect it must have had among its medieval patrons. A tower offers incredible views of the city atop its 430 steps, but it was closed due to renovation work.

We enjoyed walking through Gdańsk's cobblestoned streets. Our guide, Agnes, led us along and pointed out curiousities along the way, such as the sculpted downspouts in front of every building on St. Mary's Street.

Gdańsk has long been at the center of the amber trade, and you'll hardly find anything else being sold in stores and vendor carts packed along the streets. I purchased several pieces for the women in my life (Kristie, Mom and Sister). The prices were very reasonable - about half of what we've seen back in the States. We've been told that chunks of amber can be found on Baltic beaches after a storm.

At the end of our tour, Agnes took us to the Solidarity Monument, which commemorates the dozens (the exact number is unknown) of shipyard workers massacred by the Communist government during a riot in 1970. It was erected in 1980 by Solidarity, an independent trade union led by Lech Walesa. Solidarity organized the country's industrial workers to strike in 1989, forcing the Communists to allow free elections. From Gdańsk, the movement spread throughout Eastern Europe, dissolving the Iron Curtain and ending the Cold War. Walesa was honored with the Nobel Peace Prize and became Poland's first elected President.

The streets of Gdańsk were especially crowded while we were there. It was the last day of St. Dominic's Fair, a 23-day celebration of summer, trade and the arts, started by a pope over 700 years ago. I loved walking through Gdańsk, and I returned a couple more times when there were far fewer people and vendors overwhelming the city.

Next stop: Sopot!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdansk_poland.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdansk_poland.html travel Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:14:28 -0800 Malbork Castle EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 2 :: MALBORK, POLAND :: On our first full day in Poland, we decided it would be best to hire a private guide to take us on a tour of the area. We're glad we found Agnieszka Syroka, who is very friendly, energetic, and passionate about her country. (In particular, she loves Poland's medieval legacy and collects handmade bricks from the era!) "Agnes" provided us with a fascinating crash course on Polish culture and history, in addition to showing us the sites. She is highly recommended on forums such as TripAdvisor, and also by Rick Steves himself.

Our first destination was Malbork Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located about 60 miles South-East of Gdynia. It has the distinction of being the largest brick castle in the world and the former capital of the Teutonic Knights. As we drove to the site, we crossed a scenic lowland engineered by Mennonites during the 18th and 19th century. They successfully turned the once marshy area into productive farmland via a complex system of dikes and canals. Unfortunately, the Soviet "liberation" forced all Mennonites to flee or assimilate. There are no Mennonite communities in Poland today, although Agnes says many have come back to visit their ancestoral homes and graves. The region is also famous for the country's cherished white storks, and we stopped to see several nesting pairs during our drive back. They are the subject of many Polish legends and superstitions.

Upon arriving at Malbork Castle, I turned into a little boy again, fascinated by the impressive walls, towers, bridges and gates. Kristie was excited too, as this was her first visit to a real castle. Built in 1274, Malbork Castle was expanded several times to become the largest fortified Gothic structure in all of Europe, once housing over 3,000 knights. The castle was the headquarters of the Teutonic Order for nearly two centuries. As Agnes told us more about the Knights, however, the charm of the castle's former inhabitants gradually wore off. Basically, you only need a fortification like Malbork if you have a lot of enemies, and during their time at Malbork, the Teutonic Order excelled at pissing people off. Knights once known for being compassionate, subservient and highly-educated, became militant, corrupt and disdainful of basic literacy. The Order eventually imploded due to infighting, and the castle was pawned to mercenaries as payment during the Thirteen Years War. In 1457, the mercenaries sold the castle to Poland, the kingdom they were originally hired to fight. Malbork Castle was never conquered by force, although it was almost completely dismantled and destroyed during WWII.

The castle has been almost completely reconstructed and converted into a public museum. We made our way through the three concentric sections of the Lower, Middle and High castles, each with greater security measures and corresponding importance. We enjoyed being guided through a maze of corridors, courtyards and grand halls. Agnes explained the various components in each room, such as the heating system and the interesting Toilet Tower, which in addition its named purpose, was designed to be the most defensible room of the castle, capable of withstanding months of siege. Throughout the tour, Agnes also excitedly pointed out which sections of bricks were original. Medieval bricks are significantly larger than modern bricks, and sometimes we spotted the fingerprints of their makers from centuries ago.

Next stop: Gdańsk!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/malbork_castle.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/malbork_castle.html travel Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:43:52 -0800 Gdynia EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 1 :: GDYNIA, POLAND :: Kristie was selected to participate in the first-ever Gdynia Business Week, an intensive and fun business simulation program designed to teach entrepreneurship and teamwork to high school students. The program was put together by the Washington Business Week organization and the Seattle-Gdynia Sister City Association, along with support from local businesses, the US Embassy in Warsaw, and volunteers such as Kristie. It's a ton of work, but she loves it.

We planned a trip around the time Kristie would need to be in Gdynia. I would be vacationing as she spent most of her time working in the program, but we scheduled a couple extra days before and after to enjoy some sights together. We stayed ten days in Gdynia, two days in Krakow, and two days in Germany's Rhineland.

Gdynia is part of The Tricity metropolis in Poland's Pomeranian province. Sopot and Gdańsk are the other two cities, extending South-East along the Baltic Coast. Gdynia is the youngest of the three cities. It lacks the medieval and neo-classical architecture of its neighbors, but it makes up for it with its own unique charms.

We loved the scenic, seaside promenade (Bulwar Nadmorski) and touristy pier with carnival rides, shops, restaurants and historic ships. All of it spotlessly clean. Kristie used the mile-long promenade for exercise in the morning, but unfortunately, during one of her brisk walks, she tripped and tore a large flap of skin off the bottom of her palm. We couldn't find a proper bandage anywhere (partly because English is rarely spoken in Poland), thus my supply of crew socks were converted to gloves. It's a good thing the weather was great and I wore my sandals most days. Be on the lookout for Kristie's sock-glove (or her attempts to conceal it) in the upcoming posts and photos.

We also loved the parks and protected areas throughout Gdynia. The city is broken-up by a patchwork of hills and forests with a network of beautiful trails. This was pointed out to us by every tour guide or taxi driver we drove with. "See, we are in the middle of Gdynia. There are buildings. Soon, no buildings. Just trees. And again, buildings. That's Gdynia." We thought it was very nice, but we weren't sure if the local commuters necessarily agreed.

We stayed with the rest of the Gydnia Business Week team (and four national men's volleyball teams - Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia and France) at the Hotel Nadmorski. The hotel and location was very nice, adjacent to the promenade and a short walk to the school. The buffet every morning was superb, although I'm beginning to think this is perhaps how all Europeans enjoy breakfast, at least while traveling. I recall my cheap hotel in Copenhagen had a similiar spread - various meats, sausages, eggs, cheeses, cereals, bread, pastries, juice and very strong coffee.

Next post: Malbork Castle!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdynia_poland.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/gdynia_poland.html travel Thu, 13 Aug 2009 11:31:45 -0800 Depeche Mode KEY ARENA, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I continued our tour of popstars from the 80s (U2, The Police, Madonna, Duran Duran) with a Depeche Mode concert at the Key Arena. Kristie's been a longtime fan, and I think their new album, Sounds of the Universe, is one of their best (minus the last few tracks). Despite a string of health problems, including cancer surgery, torn muscles, and a lost voice, Dave Gahan and the band put on one of the best concerts we've seen in a while. Lots of energy, both on the stage and in the crowd. The sound and visuals were great! Loved the dark and crunchy synth rock, laced with machine noises and Gahans incredible voice.

Setlist: In Chains, Wrong, Hole To Feed, Walking In My Shoes, It's No Good, A Question Of Time, Precious, Fly On The Windscreen, Jezebel, Home, Come Back, Policy Of Truth, In Your Room, I Feel You, Enjoy The Silence, Never Let Me Down Again, Stripped, Master And Servant, Strangelove, Personal Jesus, Waiting For The Night
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/depeche_mode_seattle.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/08/depeche_mode_seattle.html shows Mon, 10 Aug 2009 11:26:36 -0800 Tuck & Robin Lakes ALPINE LAKES WILDERNESS, WA :: The guide books recommend three to four days for a hike up to Tuck and Robin Lakes. Roundtrip, the trail is over 16 miles long and climbs 3200 feet. On paper, those statistics don't seem too daunting, and so I believed two days would be plenty of time.

After hiking it, however, I think perhaps the guide books are right. It's one of the steepest and most difficult trails I've ever been on. I've done day hikes that come close, but those were without 30+ pounds of gear on my back.

The trail begins at the Deception Pass trailhead. The first four miles are level, skirting scenic Hyas Lake with views of Cathedral Rock looming far above. After a half mile of switchbacks, there's a sign that marks the route to Tuck and Robin Lakes. This trail covers another half mile of level terrain before the pain.

The first climb gains about 900 feet over 1.5 miles. There aren't very many switchbacks on this segment. It's mostly a rough staircase of loose, dusty soil, roots and rocks. It reminded me very much of the steep trail to Mailbox Peak. I was getting pretty tired at this point, but the forest began to clear away and offered great views of Mount Daniel that encouraged me onward. The views only improved through the rest of the hike.

I had caught up with a group at Tuck Lake, and we debated the route up to Robin. The Green Trails map shows a steep route straight up a 900 foot gully on the Eastern shore of Tuck Lake. The problem was, we couldn't find a way to get to it without swimming. A trail description I had printed out suggested a route South-East from Tucks Pot. We found the cairns for this option leading up another gully, and so we took it. My trekking poles were pretty useless here. The "trail" was a scramble over large boulders and through a tangle of thick brush, so I constantly needed my hands to pull myself up or to keep the branches out of my face.

Five and a half hours after leaving my car, I had finally made it to Robin Lake at 6200 feet. I was dead tired, beat and exhausted, but it was worth it. The landscape around Robin Lake is gorgeous! The sun was out and the lake was sparkling amidst the sculpted rocks. Immediately, however, the mountain goats and mosquitoes found me, and I had to deal with them all evening and the next morning. The goats I could manage, although they tried to steal my food twice. It was the mosquitoes that wore on me.

And the thunderstorm.

After I setup my tent and began airing out my sweaty clothes, the blue sky was replaced by a dark bank of clouds in seemingly just a few minutes. I heard the rumbles growing louder and louder, and then saw the flashes crack through the sky around me. It began to rain and I was more than a little nervous. I didn't want to be in my tent (with the metal poles), so I put on my rain jacket and sat it out, trying to stay low and dry in my rubber Teva sandals. Fortunately, the skies cleared up again after an hour, but it was a long and worrisome wait.

The goats and mosquitoes quickly returned, so I brewed a cup of Starbuck's VIA instant coffee (which is perfect for camping and very good) and retreated into my tent. I was safe and cozy while reading "Old Man's War" on my iPhone.

Later that evening, the skies turned a pretty pink and purple as the sun set. I wandered around Upper and Lower Robin Lakes and took a ton of pictures. At night, the photons from a billion stars and galaxies touched my eyes and kindled my imagination. I slept and dreamt well, but was woken early the next morning by the bleats, grunts and trotting of several goats around my tent. I looked outside and saw a couple babies, and figured they were worth getting up for.

One more day at beautiful Robin Lake would have been nice for my spirit and tired legs, but I had to get back. I reluctantly packed my bag and tried to soak in all the scenery, wondering if I would ever endure the painful slog again to return. If so, I'll make certain it's during a season when the thunderstorms and mosquitoes aren't as prevalent. They were really bad. Warning: I included a photo of my bitten arm below.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/tuck_robin_lake_trail.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/tuck_robin_lake_trail.html hikes Fri, 24 Jul 2009 11:15:14 -0800 Sand Point OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: I joined some friends for a weekend of hiking and camping on the Olympic Coast. Our destination was Sand Point via the Ozette Triangle. A relatively easy, but very scenic introduction to backpacking for the two newbies in our group.

We had a little difficulty getting to the trailhead, thanks to Mr. T (the voice of my TomTom GPS). For some reason, Mr. T thought it would be fun to plan a route through miles and miles of logging roads. Just outside of Forks, we reenacted the opening scene of nearly every slasher movie: A car full of happy campers enters a dirt road, believing it's a shortcut. They follow the road in good spirits, excited by the new venture. They're anxious to get to their destination, and turning around would be a waste of time. Surely, the trail is just a few minutes away...

After many skeptical turns and crossing a bridge to enter a swamp, it's been an hour. Doubt begins to creep into the minds of our happy campers. The forest seems to close in, constricting and becoming darker. Despite a zero percent chance of precipitation in the forecast, it begins to rain. The group passes by a strange van, parked in the shadows. Doubt turns into despair, despair turns into dread... They drive on, and several minutes later, Mr. T has led our campers to a DEAD END.

"Turn around, Fool!" yells Mr. T.

Fools, indeed. We backtracked the entire way, and then repeated the sequence again! The second time on a different logging road that eventually ended with a locked gate. We backtracked once more and finally got back on the highway towards Ozette. There we encountered another delay: the rangers were out too lunch. So we waited several more minutes to get our permits and bear canister. All told, our trip was postponed by nearly two hours, but at least we had survived Mr. T's sinister plot. (Mr. T has since been replaced with a much improved and benevolent Garmin 775T.)

The rest of the weekend was excellent! The weather improved and we enjoyed a brisk hike along the boardwalk to Cape Alava. There, we turned South, negotiating through the rocky beach to Sand Point, stopping to check out the petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks along the way. Our permit allowed us to camp about half a mile beyond the Point, where we found a cool campsite within the trees, but we decided to pitch our tents on the open beach instead. Jake made an awesome gumbo, and we shared about 4 liters of wine throughout the night. It wasn't enough, but it nearly made up for us not being able to have a camp fire. After the gorgeous sunset, the stars and the Milky Way were out. We clapped and cheered for the meteors.

The trip was about ten miles total, mostly level. Check out Jake's website for more photos.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/sand_point.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/sand_point.html hikes Sat, 18 Jul 2009 11:24:38 -0800 Coldplay THE GORGE AMPHITHEATER, GEORGE, WA :: I love the fact that one of the most spectacular concert venues in the world is right in our backyard, just a few hours drive from Seattle. The last show we saw at the Gorge was a festival featuring Moby, David Bowie, Busta Rhymes and DJ Tiesto in 2002. That was over seven years ago! When I heard Coldplay's Viva La Vida Tour was making a stop there, I scored a couple tickets and we were set to return.

Coldplay is not a band I had really followed too much. In fact, for a long time I tried to despise them, because the lead singer openly admits to emulating U2's anthemic sound with hopes of overtaking their status as the biggest rock band in the world. Well, U2's been a long time favorite of mine, and sorry Chris Martin, you're no Bono... But every time I hear a Coldplay song played on the radio, I can't resist turning it up and humming along. I guess you can't really dislike a band that sounds the same as your favorite. They even played U2's "Magnificent" a few minutes before coming onto the stage.

The show was pretty amazing. We weren't expecting to stand through the entire concert, especially in the triple-digit heat, but we did. Martin made several comments on the gorgeous venue and even sang a short song about the Pacific Northwest. He was jumping and dancing around the stage nonstop, and it was difficult to capture him as anything other than a blur in my photos. Twice during the show, the band left the main stage and walked through the crowd, performing a few accoustic songs each time on a pair of tiny platforms in different areas of the floor. During one of these accoustic sets, Martin covered Michael Jackson's "Billie Jean."

The band's high energy, great music and banter made the concert fun, as did the props and effects. During the song, "Yellow," a few dozen giant, yellow, inflatable balls were released and bounced around. During "Lovers in Japan," several large cannons blasted butterfly-shaped confetti above the crowd throughout the song. That was Kristie's favorite moment.

It was another great night at the Gorge! Hopefully we'll be back again for another fun show sooner rather than later.

Coldplay's Setlist: (Amadou & Mariam opened) Life In Technicolor, Violet Hill, Clocks, In My Place, Yellow, Glass Of Water, Cemeteries Of London, 42, Fix You, Strawberry Swing, God Put A Smile Upon Your Face, Talk, The Hardest Part, Postcards From Far Away, Viva La Vida, Lost, Green Eyes, Death Will Never Conquer, Billie Jean (MJ tribute), Viva La Vida (remix interlude), Politik, Lovers In Japan, Death And All His Friends, The Scientist, Life in Technicolor II, The Escapist (outro)
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/coldplay.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/coldplay.html shows Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:03:11 -0800 Duran Duran MARYMOOR PARK, REDMOND, WA :: Natalie Portman's Shaved Head opened for Duran Duran at Marymoor Park this evening. The young Seattle band rocked the crowd with silly and catchy electropop songs, such as "Sophisticated Side Ponytail" and "Beard Lust", which really aren't too thematically different from the songs on the headliner's hit list, such as "Hungry Like the Wolf" and "Girls on Film". Silly and catchy electropop.

Simon Le Bon sounds exactly the same has he did in the 80s, and the band performs with more smiles and energy than ever before - they're still having a great time and so were we - that's impressive for a tour going on two years and a career spanning thirty!

Duran Duran's Setlist: Wild Boys, Union of the Snake, Nite-Runner, Notorious, I Don't Want Your Love, Save a Prayer, Red Carpet Massacre, Election Day, Come Undone, The Reflex, The Chauffeur, Do You Believe in Shame (MJ Tribute), Sunrise, Ordinary World, Hungry Like the Wolf, Rio, A View to a Kill, Planet Earth, Girls on Film, Le Freak
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/duran_duran.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/duran_duran.html shows Sun, 05 Jul 2009 11:51:24 -0800 Fourth of July SOMEWHERE BETWEEN EDMONDS AND MUKILTEO, WA :: Another year, another fun Fourth at the Carlins' cul-de-sac in unincorporated Snohomish County - a fantastic day of friends, freedom and fireworks! We kicked up the celebration several notches this year; our combined arsenal was many times larger than 2008, and included dozens upon dozens of shells, rockets and cakes. We simultaneously launched several fireworks to saturate the sky, but also to make it through the piles of pyrotechnics before midnight. It was great! The day was filled with sun, and the night was filled with fiery explosions!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/fourth_of_july.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/07/fourth_of_july.html events Sat, 04 Jul 2009 11:57:59 -0800 Sauk Whitewater Rafting SAUK RIVER, DARRINGTON, WA :: Kristie rounded up our brave friends for another excellent whitewater rafting trip on the Sauk River. The sun was out and the air was warm, which was great for enjoying the mountain views and drying out from douses of icey cold snow melt. The Sauk offers one of the best river experiences in the state, featuring class 3-4 waves and coursing through federally protected wilderness. Unlike the Wenatchee, there are usually only a couple runs on the Sauk each day, and the waves and scenery are much more wild...

Wild enough to toss me overboard! I can't recall the name of the section we were bouncing through (Boneyard, Gums, Jaws, Alligator or Popeye) when the front of raft quickly spun and/or dipped into the river and I was forced backward into the rapids. At first, I wasn't the slightest bit concerned as I calmly swam back towards my spot towards the front and grabbed onto a rope alongside the raft, trying to keep my feet pointed downriver to protect my body from rocks as our guide, Allen, shouted orders to stabilize the raft before a rescue.

This is when I quickly discovered the last place you should be in the water is latched onto the very front of a raft sliding over whitewater. My left heel smacked into a rock and the force of the water spun me around as the raft ran completely over me. I let go and popped out on Jessica's side. I gasped repeatedly and got equal amounts of air and water splashed into my mouth. Jessica was extending the handle of her oar out to me, but I refused it, thinking there was no way she could bear my weight - I'd pull her right in with me! I remembered to turn again so my feet were facing downriver, not wanting my head or shoulders to be the next part of me to smack into a rock, and then made my way back towards the raft to grab onto the rope.

This is when I heard Allen ordering Jessica and Brent to haul me in. Despite being the two lightest people on the raft, they each hooked into my life jacket's shoulder straps and easily pulled the heaviest guy up and over the side like a large fish. I floundered on the floor for a couple seconds and resumed my spot, paddling through the remainder of the rapids. The entire episode was probably just a couple seconds long, but I felt like I was in the water for a couple minutes. Allen asked if I was okay. I felt a little dazed, but not cold or hurt at all. My heel would bruise a couple days later and cripple me for the next week, but I was happy that was the worst of it. Thanks to Jessica, Brent and Allen for saving me!

About midway through our trip, we stopped for lunch on a beach. Orion Expeditions always offers the best spread of food. Lots of lemonaid, hot cocoa and water to drink. Plenty of yummy chips, fruit, salads, cookies and sandwich-makings to fill us up. We got back onto the river and managed to make it through several more runs of rapids. Another raft had completely flipped over, and we waited a while for everyone to re-assemble.

Before reaching our takeout point, we paddled under a bridge into the mouth of a creek to hike up to a swimming hole and dive spot. The area was lush and beautiful, and I'm glad we took the time to explore it. Caroline, Pete and Brent made the jump into the water, as I swam around shooting photos. I couldn't stay in the water too long, however, because it was too cold.

It was a long day. We started at 10:00 AM and didn't get back into our cars until a little after 6:00 PM. A bit of logistical confusion (caused by another outfitter) resulted in a long delay at the start of our trip, but everything else was handled very professionally and went very smoothly. Our guide, Allen, was excellent at reading the water and maneuvering us down the river, while being entertaining and informative all along the way. And of course, thanks again to Kristie for organizing another fun trip around the schedules of everyone who wanted to go. Join us again next year!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/06/sauk_whitewater_rafting_2.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/06/sauk_whitewater_rafting_2.html misc Sat, 27 Jun 2009 11:36:32 -0800 Orca Tour VICTORIA, B.C. :: While in Victoria, Kristie and I couldn't pass up an opportunity to go on a whale watching tour. The resident orca pods frequent the waterways around Vancouver Island and a large number of outfitters depart directly from the harbor. We found Eagle Wing Tours to be the best reviewed company on TripAdvisor, and we were very happy with them as well. They cost a bit more than the other guides, but their boats are the nicest, fastest and most comfortable. The "Eagle Wing" is a 38 foot 12 passenger "sports car" on the open water, offering an exciting and surprisingly smooth ride. Cozy survival suits, gloves and toques kept us warm against the wind as we reached 60 mph (52 knots)!

Our three and a half hour tour included close-up encounters with bald eagles, seals (also known to orcas as "rock sausages"), sea lions, dolphins, and of course, the killer whales. We caught up with J-Pod again, and recognized a couple from our last tour, including J1 and J2, named "Ruffles" and "Granny". Ruffles has a distinct wave in his dorsal. Granny is now the oldest known orca, estimated to be well into her 90s!

The pod was mostly in sleeping mode during the hour we cruised parallel to them, maintaining a distance of 100 yards. According to our captain, the orcas shut off half of their brain while resting, maintaining close proximity to each other and a rhythmic diving pattern. It's not as exciting as a feeding mode, but it was still awesome - and predictable. They're much easier to spot this way.

A couple breath-taking moments included when Granny spy-hopped twice to see what we were up to. She certainly doesn't look 90 years old! It was also exciting to see the little newborns bouncing alongside their much larger family. There were three baby orcas born in the pods this year, two in J-Pod, bringing the total resident population to 85. A hopeful sign of recovery against the tragic death of seven orcas last year.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/orcas.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/orcas.html travel Sun, 24 May 2009 11:16:19 -0800 Victoria VICTORIA, B.C. :: Kristie had been to Victoria several times before, a long time ago with her high school drill team, but this was my first visit to the city. We had a lot of fun together, checking out the sights and enjoying the nice weather. We stayed at the Victoria Marriott Inner Harbor and were lucky to be upgraded again into a deluxe suite on the 11th floor. It wasn't as lavish as our last hotel upgrade in Canada, but the room had a large balcony with great views overlooking the Fairmont Empress and the cruise ships in the harbor.

From our hotel, we walked around the Inner Harbor, perusing the First People craft carts while being entertained by talented buskers. Dinner on the sunny patio at Milestones was perfect for people-watching and enjoying a decent platter of fish and chips along with a pint (or three). There were plenty of touristy shops along Government Street, and within Victoria's tiny Chinatown district, we saw the narrowest street in all of Canada, Fam Tam Alley. We also joined a free tour of the Parliament Building and shot some photos of it lit up and pretty at night.

A little ways outside of downtown, at Fisherman's Wharf, there's a colorful hodgepodge of houseboats, small shops and salty-sea cats lining the docks. This is also where we met to embark on our exciting orca watching tour - the highlight of our trip!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/victoria.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/victoria.html travel Sat, 23 May 2009 13:43:21 -0800 The Butchart Gardens BRENTWOOD BAY, B.C. :: The Butchart Gardens are very impressive, but very crowded and pricey too. Tickets for each adult are $26 CAN and kids are $13. The cost shocked us at the gate, but it was quickly justified when walking through the immaculate park as we realized it requires an army of workers and skill to maintain. We saw several groundskeepers picking up petals or leaves from pathways just moments after they had fallen. It's much like Disneyland, but with no rides. That will change this summer, however, when a large carousel opens. We saw it under construction near the amphitheater.

We enjoyed a couple hours walking through all of the themed gardens, including the Sunken Garden, Rose Garden, and Japanese Garden. They really are spectacular. There are several ponds, fountains and sculptures throughout the park as well. It's all great, but the relentless mobs of people crowding around every single specimen are distracting. We'll try to schedule our next visit very early or very late, not at high noon as we did today. It's likely the absolute worst time, with peak attendance and harsh light for photos.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/the_butchart_gardens.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/the_butchart_gardens.html travel Sat, 23 May 2009 12:11:22 -0800 Victoria Butterfly Gardens BRENTWOOD BAY, B.C. :: Kristie and I visited Victoria during a sunny Memorial Day weekend. The trip was great, but I wish it was easier to get there. We traveled to Sidney via a Washington State Ferry, which departed Anacortes at 7:45 AM and took three hours to cross the straits. When you add in the driving time from Edmonds to Anacortes and the time spent waiting in line for border screening, it's nearly a six hour ordeal each way. Although it costs a bit more, we realized the short flight via Kenmore Air from Lake Union to Victoria's Inner Harbor is actually a pretty good bargain. We'll definitely be taking that option next time.

After finally arriving in Sidney, we decided to check out the Butterfly Gardens on our way to Butchart Gardens and downtown Victoria. The Victoria Butterfly Gardens are essentially a gift shop and small theater attached to a large greenhouse. Inside, there are hundreds of butterflies, floating about or resting on the impressive collection of tropical plants. There are also a few birds in the garden, along with a koi-filled pond. It all looks very nice, and the climate is kept warm and extremely humid. It had to be at least 85 degrees inside, and several automated spray-misters frequently saturated the air with more water. We had to step outside a few times to cool off and breathe. I was just about drenched in sweat after an hour.

I was having fun with my macro lens, but I still need a lot of practice working the tight depth of field. Some of the more colorful butterflies were just impossible to capture with my camera. We chased Blue Morphos and Swallowtails throughout the garden, but they never seemed to land. Several monstrous Atlas Moths were resting on a tree. They're the world's largest with a 12 inch wingspan! I'm very glad they don't live anywhere around here.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/victoria_butterfly_gardens.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/victoria_butterfly_gardens.html travel Sat, 23 May 2009 11:34:38 -0800 Swakane Canyon SWAKANE WILDLIFE AREA, WENATCHEE, WA :: Swakane Canyon is just five miles north of Wenatchee. A scenic trail twists up the canyon's northern slopes via a federal forest road, NFD 5215. The road seems to go on forever through the mountains, and I'm sure there are many other adventures beyond my turnaround point. Today, I followed it about five and a half miles to a saddle at 3800'. It was a very gradual and steady climb all the way to the top, gaining 2400' from the trailhead. Likewise, the slope was very easy on my recently nagging knees on the way back down. (Google map of the road/trail.)

There are nice views all along the trail, looking over Wenatchee and the Columbia River Gorge. The predominately brown desert hills were lightly veiled by a grassy green tint and occasionally speckled by blooms of yellow balsamroot and purple lupine. The skies were mostly sunny and blue, until a bank of large cumulus clouds rolled in. Their shadows cast an interesting patchwork of light across the rolling landscape, adding another layer of texture and depth to an otherwise flat scene during the high noon light.

About halfway up the trail, there's a picturesque rock wall extending across the crest of a bare hill, topped by a lone tree. It appears to be man-made... Perhaps it is a remnant a mythical hill-people that once defended themselves against the evil river-people down in the canyon. Unfortunately, science once again sucks the whimsy out of such notions... Geologically, it's just an exposed sheet of magmatic rock that somehow crept into a crack in the ancient landscape and weathered away at a slower rate than the surrounding sedimentary layers...

But I'm sure it was a gnome that planted the tree.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/swakane_canyon.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/swakane_canyon.html hikes Sat, 09 May 2009 11:46:06 -0800 Laundry Room Makeover EDMONDS, WA :: Kristie and I finally updated our laundry room over the weekend. It was a relatively simple renovation project to improve the appearance and efficiency of the small space.

I wish we could have gotten fancy new appliances to match, but Kristie wants to keep the old and ugly dryer until it breaks... Unfortunately, she's right. The 30 year old machine still does a great job drying clothes, but I'm half-tempted to sabotage it.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/laundry_room_makeover.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/05/laundry_room_makeover.html projects Sun, 03 May 2009 11:15:01 -0800 Spring in Macro EDMONDS, WA :: Here are a few snapshots from our backyard over the weekend. The sun was out and I was busy with yard work. As I was plucking the dandelions, I decided to try out my new macro glass (EF 100 f/2.8 Macro) on a couple of them. When I first looked into the viewfinder, I couldn't believe it! The depth of field is razor thin, and if I could keep anything in focus, the detail is also razor sharp. It's a fun lens!

We also took the kitties on a walk. I guess they're kinda cute, so I snuck in a few photos of them too.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/04/spring_in_macro.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/04/spring_in_macro.html misc Sun, 26 Apr 2009 11:50:38 -0800 Mt. Constitution MORAN STATE PARK, ORCAS ISLAND, WA :: Kristie and I joined our friends for a weekend of camping and hiking on Orcas Island. We pitched our tents on a small peninsula along Cascade Lake in South End Campground. The forecast promised a lot of rain over the weekend, so canopies and tarps were setup as well.

After establishing camp, we drove up to Mountain Lake Campground to start our hike up Mt. Constitution. Our plan was to take a trail straight up, but we somehow missed the fork and ended up walking along Mountain Lake until we came to the junction for Twin Lakes. We pressed on and saw a sign for Mt. Constitution, just a little over a mile and a steep climb away.

The summit is 2,407 feet above sea level. At the top, there's a neat stone tower that we climbed to enjoy great views of the other San Juan Islands and Vancouver Island. Our timing was perfect, as the sun was just starting to break through the clouds at this time. It would have been a completely different (and likely miserable) experience if we had the rain we were expecting.

After a quick lunch, we headed back down the way we came. Beams of sunlight were now filtering through the trees and across the lakes. When we arrived back at the junction for Mountain Lake, we decided to complete the loop around the other bank to get back to our car. This added a couple extra miles to our hike, making it about a 9 - 10 mile trip overall.

More photos at Jayson's site and The Hostel Witness.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/04/mt_constitution.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/04/mt_constitution.html hikes Sat, 11 Apr 2009 11:44:29 -0800 Rundetaarn COPENHAGEN, DENMARK :: The Rundetaarn, or Round Tower, was built during the reign of King Christian IV - the same guy who commissioned and lived in Rosenborg Castle. It's approximately 11 stories tall, and a circular platform on top of the tower offers sweeping, unobstructed views across all of Copenhagen. It was the Space Needle of the 17th century.

The unique feature of the Rundetaarn is the wide, spiral ramp that corkscrews continuously from the street level to the top. Apparently, King Christian IV did not want to climb up an extremely long series of stairs, so the ramp was designed to be large enough to accommodate a horse and carriage. During the time, an astronomical observatory and a library were also located at the top. A large clockwork planetarium is still up there, showing the position of the planets relative to the zodiac. A church was also added to the side of the Rundetaarn soon after its completion.

Walking up the ramp was fun. It completes seven and a half revolutions over 685 feet. The view from the top allowed me to see the row of large windmills in the sea and the Oresund Bridge to Sweden, which is nearly five miles long! The bird's eye view also helped me to appreciate the organic layout of the city's streets. Despite the seemingly haphazard arrangement of the buildings, there's a certain neatness and cohesiveness to it all that doesn't exist in most American cities. The one thing I didn't like is the featureless horizon. Copenhagen is absolutely flat as far as the eye can see - which is great for bikes - but I'd miss the scenic hills and mountains of the Pacific Northwest.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/rundetaarn.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/rundetaarn.html travel Wed, 18 Mar 2009 15:49:52 -0800 Rosenborg Castle COPENHAGEN, DENMARK :: When my dad was stationed in Germany, I loved visiting castles. I was only four or five at the time, but I vividly remember the fairytale scenes of old masonry walls, high towers, heavy timber bridges across moats, cobblestoned courtyards, and the gleaming suits of armor and weaponry on display. Since leaving Germany nearly 30 years ago, I haven't set foot in another castle... Until today!

Needless to say, I was initially excited to visit Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen. Upon arriving, however, I was just a little disappointed that renaissance Rosenborg bears little resemblance to the medieval fortresses of my childhood memory. There are no curtain walls, portcullis gates, crenellated parapets, or arrow slots for defense. There is a moat, but it seems to be more scenic than practical.

King Christian IV originally built Rosenborg Castle in 1606 as a summer residence, but he grew to love and prefer Rosenborg over the other royal residences and lived there exclusively until his death in 1648. A couple other monarchs lived in the castle as well, but by the time Federicksborg Castle was completed in 1699, Rosenborg had become a museum and storage facility for the royals.

Today, the castle is open to the public and is chock-full of Danish relics, including the country's Crown Jewels and Regalia. Most of the rooms are decorated with original pieces, just as they would have been 400 years ago. The most impressive room is the Knights' Hall, spanning the entire length of the building on the uppermost floor. Large, detailed tapestries and paintings in the ceiling chronicle Denmark's history. At either end of the hall are the coronation chairs and thrones, guarded by three, life-sized, silver lions.

I had a lot of fun imagining what life was like for the old monarchs as I marveled at their toys. Throughout my tour of the castle, one thought repeated in my head over and over again: It must be good to be king!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/rosenborg_castle.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/rosenborg_castle.html travel Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:35:30 -0800 Kastellet COPENHAGEN, DENMARK :: When viewing a satellite image of Copenhagen, it's easy to spot the star-shaped fortress, Kastellet. Since its construction in the early 1600s, the citadel has been integral to the defense of the city's prominent port. The angled bastions effectively deflected cannon fire and allowed more lines of sight to pick-off soldiers sieging the walls. It fell to the British during the Napoleonic Wars and the second Battle of Copenhagen in 1807, when Denmark's empire also included all of Norway and parts of Germany. Kastellet also fell during World War II and was occupied by the Nazis as a regional headquarters.

Today, the historic structure is one of the best preserved star forts in Europe. It's also a popular park, with a jogging path circling the upper ramparts. One of the three original windmills remains, along with several cannon and a picturesque church across the moat. The buildings continue to be used by the Danish Army and its all-volunteer defense force, the Danish Home Guard.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/kastellet.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/kastellet.html travel Wed, 18 Mar 2009 13:38:59 -0800 Copenhagen COPENHAGEN, DENMARK :: In sunny Copenhagen, I walked amongst rows of cheerfully colored homes and alongside a forest of masts bobbing about the canals. A graceful white swan rippled through the reflections as a mermaid looked on and beyond. She longs for a person, a place, a time far away. Perhaps a time of princes, palaces and powerful gods. Their myths memorialized in monuments, and their magic manifested in the modern motions of this magnificent city.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/copenhagen.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/copenhagen.html travel Wed, 18 Mar 2009 12:11:53 -0800 Nyhavn COPENHAGEN, DENMARK :: Our team had an early meeting with a prospect in Copenhagen, after which we headed to scenic Nyhavn to have lunch along the canal. They were rushed to catch a flight back to London, but I had planned to stay in the city for a couple nights to do some sightseeing on my own. It was my first time in beautiful Copenhagen, capital city of my Danish ancestors. If I had only stayed a few hours, I would've regreted it. Especially after traveling nearly half-way around the world to get there.

Nyhavn was my base in Copenhagen. I had a found a charming hotel (Hotel Bethel) overlooking the rows of colorful, old buildings lining both sides of the canal. The room was just a little over $100 a night - quite a bargain for such an amazing location and having my own bathroom. The furnishings were sparse, and the beds were old, but it was very clean and quiet. The staff was friendly, and the free breakfasts were great. Many different meats, cheeses, breads, soft-boiled eggs, coffee, and of course, danishes, to fuel my long walks throughout the city.

Copenhagen is compact and flat. It's a very bike and pedestrian-friendly city. I definitely saw many more bikes on the roads than cars, and there are a few main shopping streets that criss-cross the city that are pedestrian-only.

Despite being small, there is so much to see in Copenhagen. Literally every block has an impressive monument, museum, church or castle, all centuries old. The skyline is full of spires and steeples, soaring above a radial network of medieval, cobblestone streets and canals. Cobblestone streets and canals are scenic, but they're tough on a tourist's feet. The canals just confused me, forcing me to backtrack several times to find a bridge. My legs were sore and I was hobbling by the end of the day, but I didn't mind - the weather was gorgeous and I was exploring the ancient land of Vikings, Hans Christian Andersen, Carlsberg, LEGO, a mad Shakespearean king, and an unbelievably tall and beautiful population.

In addition to Nyhavn, I also spent time exploring the rest of the city, Kastellet, Rosenborg Castle, The Rundetaarn, and Freetown Christiana. Each of these deserve their own entries which I will be posting soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/nyhavn.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/nyhavn.html travel Wed, 18 Mar 2009 11:35:40 -0800 London LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM :: The company dispatched Mike, Scott and me to London again, where we met several exciting prospects and consulted with a few existing clients. Our itinerary was a whirlwind, requiring the team to divide and conquer, criss-crossing the city and country to make the most of our short stay.

The meetings were great, and the weather was absolutely fantastic for Winter - nearly 60 degrees and mostly sunny. I had a few hours free Monday afternoon, which I enjoyed by walking around town with my UK counterpart, Adrian, a British historian and excellent tour guide.

We stayed a couple nights at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Shoreditch, a relatively ramshackle neighborhood in Northeast London. Our host had chosen it for its convenient location, not for the scenery. Upon arriving, I took some snapshots of the pubs and the interesting buildings in the area. We later walked up to Brick Lane for a decent Mexican meal at Green & Red.

We had a 7:00 AM flight to Copenhagen, so we spent our third night at Stansted Airport. Rooms were booked at the Radisson SAS, which is a pretty snazzy hotel. I had no idea Radisson's were this nice, or was this an exception? The restaurants served great food, and the bar featured one of those glass towers with a girl on wires to fetch your bottle of wine. Our rooms even had espresso machines - not just a lowly drip coffee maker. Too bad we were there for only nine hours.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/london_two.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/03/london_two.html travel Mon, 16 Mar 2009 11:07:17 -0800 KODO MEANY HALL, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie also surprised me on my birthday with tickets to see Kodo, perhaps the most reknown, influential and dedicated taiko troop. The musicians not only play taiko, they live it. The 50 performers are members of a traditional Japanese village, where they farm, fish, and celebrate ancient festivals while rehearsing and composing new pieces. The band spends one-third of their year in the village, one-third performing throughout Japan, and one-third performing to audiences around the world.

We're obviously big fans of taiko, and we've enjoyed a number of performances through the years (San Jose Taiko, TAIKOPROJECT, and One World Taiko), but the power and precision of Kodo's performance was unsurpassed. It's the first time we've seen gigantic hira-daikos - wide-flat drums approximately five feet across and laid parallel to the floor. These were struck with an overhead swing of a single, club-like bachi. During the spectacular opening sequence, there were two of these being pounded on at once. The o-daiko (among the world's largest drums) was also impressively huge and thunderous during the closing performance. It required a heavy cart to transport it onto the stage.

Photography during the concert was strictly prohibited, so I only managed to sneak in a few snapshots. If you have a couple minutes, check out Kodo's promotional video on YouTube (select the HQ option, of course, and checkout that giant hira-daiko at about 1:37). Or checkout their stunning new Sony Bravia ad on their website (it'll give your subwoofer a workout). If you ever get a chance to see a taiko show in person, by all means, go!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/01/kodo_taiko.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/01/kodo_taiko.html shows Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:26:28 -0800 Canon EOS 5D Mark II EDMONDS, WA :: Happy Birthday to me! As a gift to myself, I added a new camera body to my kit: The Canon EOS 5D Mark II. It's a major upgrade from the remarkable Rebel XT that Kristie got for me a little over three years ago. The primary difference is the full-frame sensor, which will allow me to capture higher quality photos across a much wider range of conditions. I'm also excited for the improved processing, better interface, larger viewfinder and review screen, automatic sensor cleaning, weather sealing, and the ability to shoot HD movies in 1080p. It's a sweet camera that was worth the wait!

Kristie also spoiled me again by getting me the superb, ultra-wide-angle EF 16-35 f/2.8L II as a birthday gift! This will be my primary landscape lens, replacing and improving on my trusty EF-S 10-22 f/3.5-4.5. Thank you, Sweetie! I also added the EF 100 f/2.8 Macro lens, as I'd like to try dabbling in close-up photography.

So far, I haven't had too many opportunities to exercise the 5D. In fact, on the two occasions I did try to use it, I was told by security to put it away. I can't recall that ever happening before... Apparently, the larger camera attracts more attention, and I've since learned to pack the G10 as a backup. I was able to bring the 5D (along with the G10) on my recent trip to London and Copenhagen, and I'll be posting those photos soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/01/canon_eos_5d_mark_ii.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2009/01/canon_eos_5d_mark_ii.html misc Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:26:10 -0800 Kitty Kennel EDMONDS, WA :: Last summer I built a kennel for Mance and Sage, allowing them to safely and conveniently enjoy a little bit of the outside world. I'm just now posting it on the website because, 1) I've been working through a large backlog of photos, and 2) I've been waiting for a snow day to conceal our ugly patio (a project for this summer).

I researched a number of cat containment systems, but this simple cage seemed to be the best solution for us. It doesn't look too bad, and it'll be easy for us to move and reconfigure once it is placed in its permanent location. Right now, it's against the house, next to a low window. We simply open the window during the day so that they can hop in and out as they please. When it gets dark, we call them in and close the window so that they don't bring in any mice. This happened a few times when we first let them stay out all night. That was a few times too many for Kristie. Fortunately, the mice were offered to us alive and intact.

The kennel is simply two small dog kennels that I assembled into one large cat kennel. The canopy is a roll of black, plastic chicken "wire", fastened every few inches with black zip ties, and capped with a length of aluminum flashing that I spray-painted black to match. The entire assembly can be lifted and moved by two people, but is heavy enough to keep the cats in and other creatures out.

The cats love it! They get to sit in the sun and the fresh air while munching on grass or chasing bugs. They've become friends with the squirrels, and hope someday a bird will be stupid enough to fly into the kennel. Mance and Sage even go out in the rain, or in this case, the snow. It was their first experience with it, so I grabbed a camera and watched them test it out. It's snowed a lot this year at our house, and each time the cats are eager for us to wake-up and open the window.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/kitty_kennel.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/kitty_kennel.html projects Sun, 21 Dec 2008 11:43:07 -0800 unBELIZEable! UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 12 :: BELIZE :: Here's a recap of our unbelievable vacation through Florida, Guatemala and Belize. It literally required a few months of research and planning to pull everything together, six months before we were scheduled to depart. All of the work was well worth it. Everything went off without a hitch and we had an incredible time!

We certainly wouldn't hesitate to recommend the same itinerary to any of our friends, and we wouldn't mind repeating the same trip ourselves, but there is a so much to see and do in tiny Belize. Deciding which attractions to cross off your list because of time limitations is the main difficulty of planning a trip to this Central American gem. These deferred adventures merely provided us with an excuse or two to return, which we certainly plan to do!

Here's the list of attractions we visited during our vacation:

• Day 1: Grand Cypress Resort, Orlando, FL

• Day 2: Animal Kingdom, Orlando, FL

• Day 2: Cirque du Soleil: La Nouba, Orlando, FL

• Day 3: South Beach, Miami, FL

• Day 3: Madonna, Miami, FL

• Day 4: The Belize Zoo, Belize District, Belize

• Day 4: The Lodge at Chaa Creek, Cayo District, Belize

• Day 5: Tikal, Peten Department, Guatemala

• Day 5: Jungle Zip-Line, Peten Department, Guatemala

• Day 6: Barton Creek Cave, Cayo District, Belize

• Day 6: San Ignacio, Cayo District, Belize

• Day 7: Actun Tunichil Muknal, Cayo District, Belize

• Day 8: Belizean Butterflies, Cayo District, Belize

• Day 9: San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize

• Day 9: Belize Legacy Beach Resort, Ambergris Caye, Belize

• Day 10: Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Belize Barrier Reef, Belize

• Day 11: Mexico Rocks, Belize Barrier Reef, Belize

]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/unbelizeable.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/unbelizeable.html travel Fri, 05 Dec 2008 11:20:01 -0800 Mexico Rocks UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 11 :: BELIZE BARRIER REEF, BELIZE :: Mexico Rocks is the name given to a popular snorkeling destination along the Belize Barrier Reef located just a half-mile from our resort. We were told we could easily kayak there and back, but a strong breeze produced some doubt. The waters were choppy and it began to rain. After waiting an hour for the weather to improve, I grew impatient and decided it wasn't too bad, so we casted off and began paddling towards a buoy we could just barely spot on the horizon.

Getting there was easy. The wind was against our backs and the waves were breaking in our general direction. We arrived at the buoy within just a few minutes, but couldn't determine whether it was the right one, as there were several positioned within 50 feet of each other along the reef. We didn't know if these were mooring buoys or just navigational buoys, intended to warn boats of shallow water or the reef wall. We tried peering through the water, but couldn't make out anything that looked interesting.

After some debate, we decided we wouldn't even know how to get back into the kayak if we chose to dive, so we gave up and started paddling back. Now the wind and the waves were working against us. Despite our furious paddling, it seemed like we were barely making progress. The salt water was blowing into my eyes and Kristie was getting sick of me barking our rowing cadence. Apparently I wouldn't make a very good coxswain.

We felt tired and miserable, but somehow managed to make it back to our pier after about 20 minutes, laughing at ourselves for our foolish venture. As we climbed out of the kayak, we noticed the guide from our previous day at Hol Chan, and asked him to take us out to Mexico Rocks.

He powered up the boat and took us right back to the same buoy we paddled to... Oh well, at least we had found it and done the work to get there and back on our own. Now we could enjoy a leisurely snorkel by ourselves with the work behind us.

Compared to Hol Chan, Mexico Rocks isn't very exciting. There's more coral, but not very many fish. The coolest thing we saw were schools of squid, which hovered and swam in perfect formations while their skin glimmered with patterns of bioluminescence. It was one of the most alien things I have ever directly witnessed. Very cool and well worth the effort of getting there (twice)!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/mexico_rocks.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/mexico_rocks.html travel Thu, 04 Dec 2008 11:44:41 -0800 Hol Chan Marine Reserve UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 10 :: BELIZE BARRIER REEF, BELIZE :: Hol Chan means "little channel" in Mayan. It describes a unique and relatively narrow cut in the Belize Barrier Reef where the creatures of the open Caribbean Sea are able to cross into the calmer, protected seagrass beds behind the reef. Large coral formations and an incredible variety of wildlife are concentrated at this intersection. The water is also clear and shallow, making it the perfect snorkeling destination.

We swam alongside sea turtles, spotted eagle rays, nurse sharks, stingrays, barracudas, and moray eels, to name just a few of the dozens of species we saw. The sun was out so the visibility was great. Kristie did not want our group to scare away all of "her" fish, so we swam in front of the group and along the periphery. The guides would clap underwater to alert us to something interesting they had found and we would swim back.

We were led quite a ways across the seagrass beds and into the cut, which is approximately 25 yards wide and 10 yards deep. Coral lined the walls and if you just stopped to stare at any random spot, you would gradually notice layer upon layer of life - tiny fish, snails, urchins, eels, squid and the intricate, fractal structure of the coral itself.

Unfortunately, we only got to swim around for an hour before being called back to the boat. After Hol Chan, we also stopped to snorkel at Shark-Ray Alley, an area where fishermen have traditionally emptied their unused bait and cleaned their nets, attracting a population of nurse sharks and stingrays. It was a little unsettling swimming near these guys, as they are quite capable of causing harm, but apparently they are accustomed and "friendly" to the people swimming here daily.

After snorkeling, we asked our guides to drop us off in San Pedro town. They took our gear back to the Belize Legacy and we caught a water taxi later in the afternoon after enjoying some lunch and shopping.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/hol_chan_marine_reserve.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/hol_chan_marine_reserve.html travel Wed, 03 Dec 2008 11:27:05 -0800 Belize Legacy Beach Resort UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 9 :: AMBERGRIS CAYE, BELIZE :: From a dock in San Pedro, we took a 15 minute boat ride to the Belize Legacy Beach Resort, our beachside base for our final four days in Belize. The Belize Legacy is a relatively new resort and one of the most remote on Ambergris Caye. It features one of the best white sand beaches on the island and is less than half a mile from the reef, which would allow us to easily kayak to the best snorkeling spots on our own. During last season's Amazing Race, the pit stop award for the first leg of the race was a trip to the Belize Legacy. No, we did not see Nick and Starr while we were there.

Our days at the resort were pretty relaxed. We snorkeled a few times, took long and scenic walks along the beach, visited San Pedro town, enjoyed the great food and drinks from the restaurant, and tried to soak in as much sun as we could. Our luck ran out, however, as the weather turned on us on the third day. The wind picked up, clouds moved in, and it rained. We had chosen to travel to Belize towards the end of its rainy season to take advantage of cheaper rates. It was a gamble that paid off quite well for us overall. Other than that one gloomy day on the beach, we had sunshine during our entire trip. Still, we wished if it had to be rainy one day, why couldn't it be while we were in a cave?

The Belize Legacy is a great resort and we really enjoyed our time there. The staff was was very nice and the rooms were big. They included a full kitchen, but the only grocery stores were far away in San Pedro. We would highly recommend an upper-level room for better views and less noise. We were initially assigned a lower-level room and could hear everything our neighbors upstairs were doing. Fortunately, the resort wasn't fully booked, so it was easy to switch rooms.

We got to chat with the owner, Rod, for a while during one of our dinners. He owned a construction business in Montana and moved to Ambergris Caye a few years ago to build and run this resort. We could tell he was very proud of the place. We saw him frequently, chatting with the guests, always smiling and joking. No doubt, running a resort in paradise would be a very nice way to retire. It's time to start planning and convincing Kristie now!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/belize_legacy_beach_resort.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/belize_legacy_beach_resort.html travel Tue, 02 Dec 2008 12:32:45 -0800 San Pedro UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 9 :: SAN PEDRO, AMBERGRIS CAYE, BELIZE :: We were sad to leave our cottage at Chaa Creek, but we knew there would be more exciting adventure and stunning scenery at our next destination, Ambergris Caye. This long island skirts the Belize Barrier Reef, second only in size to Australia's. Ambergris Caye is also famous for being Madonna's "la isla bonita," where she "fell in love with San Pedro," the island's charming and vibrant town.

We took a small plane from Belize City to San Pedro via Tropic Air. We had a choice between Maya Island Air or Tropic Air, and we're glad we went with Tropic. Their planes are some of the nicest prop planes I've ever flown in. Quiet, clean and comfortable, and sporting impressive digital instrument panels. Our flights were only 20 minutes long, during which we looked out over the shallow, turquoise sea, speckled by dozens of tiny islands that are sheltered inside the reef from the open, deeper blue waters of the Caribbean.

In San Pedro, we explored the town's three main streets (named Front, Middle and Back), shopping for souveniers and searching for a good place to eat. Most of the buildings are painted in bright colors and are packed close together. There are about 4000 permanent residents in San Pedro, although that number is increasing rapidly every year. Golf carts are the main mode of transportation, being better suited for the narrow streets and alleys, and for cruising over the sandy roads leading to the resorts up and down the island.

Our resort, the Belize Legacy, was about seven miles north of San Pedro. A golf cart would take at least an hour to cover this distance over sand, so we elected to use the water taxi instead, which would only take about 15 minutes to get to the resort's dock. We stocked up on groceries before heading out, and we were impressed by the selection. In San Ignacio, it was difficult to find Kristie's staples (Cheerios and chocolate chip cookies), but we finally found them in San Pedro.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/san_pedro_belize.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/san_pedro_belize.html travel Tue, 02 Dec 2008 11:06:45 -0800 Belizean Butterflies UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 8 :: CAYO DISTRICT, BELIZE :: The itinerary for our last full day on the mainland was reserved for relaxation and soaking in the scenery of our jungle resort. Tomorrow, we would bid farewell to Chaa Creek and drive back across the country for our short flight to Ambergris Caye.

We started the day with a traditional Belizean fry jack (beignets) breakfast, followed by a quick hike to the Blue Morpho Butterfly Farm. There, we watched several butterflies emerge from their cocoons to join the dozens floating throughout the enclosure. We also stopped by the nearby Tropical Wings museum to see several more varieties of butterflies in a more natural setting. It was hard to get a good shot and I wished I had packed my macro lens for the trip.

Afterwards, I dropped Kristie off at the spa for a few hours, during which time I hiked a couple short trails on the property and took some more photos. As I waited for Kristie to finish her treatments and massage, I was lulled to sleep in our hammock by the warm, tropical air (and my third Belikin beer).
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/belizean_butterflies.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/12/belizean_butterflies.html travel Mon, 01 Dec 2008 11:44:38 -0800 Actun Tunichil Muknal UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 7 :: TAPIR MOUNTAIN NATURE RESERVE, CAYO DISTRICT, BELIZE :: Actun Tunichil Muknal is a Mayan term that I love to chant. It just sounds cool when I raise my chest and lower my voice: Awk-toon Toon-each-EEL Mook-nal. Translated, it means "Cave of the Stone Sepulchre". It's the name given to the incredible network of subterranean spaces that descend over three miles into the earth and were used between 1000-2000 years ago by the Maya for religious ceremonies, including grisly human sacrifices. Caves were churches for the Maya, and indeed, some of the caverns rival the greatest cathedrals with their immense volume and transcendent beauty.

Kristie and I have never considered ourselves to be spelunkers, but this is the one tour that the Belize travel guides consistently rank as the best. The NSS (National Speleogical Society) includes the ATM cave on its list of the top 10 caves in the world, and it has been featured in National Geographic magazines and on a Discovery Channel documentary. We couldn't skip it, and we're very glad we didn't, because it proved to be among the most amazing experiences ever.

The adventure started with a 45 minute walk through the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. We followed our guide through the forest and forded four rivers to reach the entrance to the cave. Along the way, we learned how to identify several trees and plants, as well as their commercial and medicinal uses. The hike alone was fascinating, as the weather was perfect, the jungle was lush, and we enjoyed splashing through the rivers. We didn't care, because we knew we would be getting much more wet in the cave.

At the cave's entrance, we readied the lamps on our helmets and put our cameras and dry clothes into a drysack. The guide provided one for our small group to share, but we brought our own to fit my DSLR and flash. These would be brought out again when we reached the elevated caverns containing the artifacts. Until then, I relied on my Elph within a waterproof case to photograph our way through the water-filled cave.

The portal into the Mayan underworld is shaped like an hourglass, but to me, it also eerily resembles the screaming, haunted face within Munch's famous painting. Into this mouth we entered, and sank into a tourquoise pool fifteen feet deep and filled with fish. As we swam across, we were warned of vampire bats above our heads. Welcome to the abyss.

We bid farewell to the light of the world, and for the next three hours, relied on our headlamps (and the near constant strobe of my flash bulb) to illuminate our way through the total darkness. We stepped in and out of water, sometimes waist deep and sometimes swimming. Occasionally, we needed to climb or crouch, often using four contact points to navigate over fields of fallen boulders or twist through narrow passages. Our helmets were essential to protect our heads against overhangs that appeared just above the headlamp's beam.

At about the half-mile point, we emerged from the water into a large cavern. Here we ascended a series of rocks and ledges to the main ceremonial center. We removed our shoes, to respect the hallowed ground and to protect the pottery strewn about the cave's floor. Many of the pots are still intact, left untouched for a millennium. Most have been intentionally punctured or smashed, to release the spirit of what they once contained: Water, food, blood, bones and ashes. One of the pots contained a carving of a monkey, which the Maya considered to be the gods' third attempt at creating humans...

First came Man of Mud, who didn't work out for various reasons. Next came Man of Wood, who tended to catch on fire a little too easily. Third came Monkey Man, who was too playful and disrespectful of the gods. Finally, there appeared humans, who apparently were deemed just good enough.

Walking deeper into the cavern, our guide illuminated the tall ceiling and enormous stalagmite and stalagtite formations. These were believed to be the roots of the Yaxche, the sacred Maya Tree of Life. Its high, axial branches were believed to touch the celestial realm of stars and glorified ancestor spirits. The roots extended through the nine layers of the underworld, Xibalba.

Here we began to see the remains of the 7 adults and 7 children that have been discovered in this cave. The Maya did not sacrifice slaves or common people; only the best people in society were offered to the gods. One of the skulls had filed teeth, inlaid with jade. His forehead had been shaped and flattened by a board since birth. It's likely he also had a bead suspended above his nose, so that he could stare at it and permanently cross his eyes. He was royalty, and according to the ancient Maya, a pretty attractive guy. He was likely clubbed and/or choked to death by his priest.

Continuing further into the cavern, we came across a ladder propped against a wall. On this ledge, a chamber contains the famous Crystal Maiden, the completely intact skeleton of a teenage girl, covered with sparkling cave minerals. Just as the Cystal Maiden's journey ended here 1000 years ago, so had ours. We decided to postpone our entry into the afterlife, however. We hiked, crawled and swam all the way back the same way we came as we contemplated the world of the ancient Maya through their relics and magnificent cave. Actun Tunichil Muknal was truly an awesome experience. One that we'll always remember and treasure!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/actun_tunichil_muknal.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/actun_tunichil_muknal.html travel Sun, 30 Nov 2008 11:39:34 -0800 San Ignacio UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 6 :: SAN IGNACIO, CAYO DISTRICT, BELIZE :: San Ignacio is Belize's westernmost town, located just twelve miles from the Guatemalan border. More than 16,000 Belizeans live in San Ignacio, along with hundreds of tourists that make their basecamp here, making it a relatively large population center in Belize. It's an ideal location for travelers: the lodging and eats are cheap, and it's very easy to find a guide to take you on your next jungle adventure.

San Ignacio is a 20 minute drive from Chaa Creek. We snuck away from the resort the next three nights, because our dinners were getting to be pretty expensive. The staff definitely noticed when we were absent, and seemed to be saddened by it. It was nothing personal or against the superb meals they prepared; we simply didn't feel comfortable eating like a king and queen every night. We looked forward to humbler meals in town. We also wanted to check out the market and shops, and to get closer to the people and the culture.

We're glad we did, because San Ignacio is a fun and charming place. We strolled the downtown streets, checked out the stores and interacted with the owners. Again, everyone was extremely friendly and we felt perfectly safe, except when we were walking on the cracked and crooked sidewalks with exposed gutters a foot deep. You could easily break a leg walking through town if you weren't careful.

We found a few gifts for our family and friends, and then followed the advice from our Barton Creek guide to check out Hode's Place, a large restaurant with outdoor seating within an orange grove, across from the soccer "stadium" and park. We loved this place! Hode's had a large and diverse menu, with great service, great food and great value. The dining area was surrounded with playgrounds, swings, an ice cream shop and arcade. We saw lots of families enjoying their evening here while a jukebox played catchy Spanish and Caribbean tunes. We came back the remaining nights after our activities, relishing the relaxed atmosphere and the warm, tropical nights.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/san_ignacio.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/san_ignacio.html travel Sat, 29 Nov 2008 12:50:33 -0800 Barton Creek Cave UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 6 :: CAYO DISTRICT, BELIZE :: The Maya believed that caves were very sacred places. They were the birthplace of gods and the human race, and were passageways to Xibalbá, the underworld realm of demons, disease and death. Mayas frequently worshipped in these underground cathedrals, performing elaborate rituals and human sacrifice ceremonies to appease the gods.

We visited a couple of these caves, where Mayan artifacts and human skeletons have remained undisturbed for more than 500 years. The first cave system we visited was at Barton Creek, a tunnel the extends at least seven miles into the earth. But our guide would only paddle us a mile into the cave, where the ceiling came down to the water and forced us to turn around.

We had a couple powerful spotlights hooked up to a car battery in the canoe. We used these to illuminate the strange formations within the large caverns. Sometimes the ceiling of the cave was several stories above us, and at other times, we had to crouch down to squeeze through. Along the ledges, we also spotted several ceremonial pots and a human skull, one of 20 that have been discovered in this cave. We turned off our lights a couple times to appreciate the total darkness. We only heard drops of water and the fluttering of an occasional bat, which Kristie wasn't too thrilled about.

We had the cave almost entirely to ourselves, only coming across another group just as we were exiting. Outside of the cave, we had time to hang out with Mango, a pet spider monkey.

Our guide, Herman, was arranged through Chaa Creek. A former teacher, carpenter, and community leader, he was very knowledgable and kind. We learned a lot about Belize and its large Mennonite population. We drove through their communities and farms to reach the cave and saw several of them, men and women, appearing as if they were stuck in the 19th century. They all waved and smiled at us, and Herman said it would be okay if we stopped and "borrowed" a few of their oranges. Thanks to the Mennonites, Belize is a major exporter of agricultural commodities, including sugar, citrus and bananas.

Kristie and I planned on spending the evening shopping and dining in San Ignacio, and Herman helped us to find our favorite restaurant in Belize.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/barton_creek_cave.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/barton_creek_cave.html travel Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:07:59 -0800 Jungle Zip-Line UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 5 :: TIKAL NATIONAL PARK, PETEN DEPARTMENT, GUATEMALA :: On our way back to Belize from Tikal, we stopped at Canopy Tours just outside the gates of the park to experience zip-lining through the jungle. We chose the fast tour, because a few people in our group would be waiting for us and we wanted to get back to Chaa Creek before dark.

The fast option consists of nine platforms fastened to the trees, some as high as 130 feet! Our climb to the first platform was up a series of long, caged ladders, but it was mostly downhill from there. It was hot and humid too, but the views and the thrill of flying through the trees were definitely worth it. We watched spider monkeys swing through the high branches and tropical birds dart about the leaves.

The first line crossed the highway and we could wave to the rest of our group waiting beneath us. A couple of the lines were longer than 650 feet! We saw the line disappear into the forest and trusted there would be a safe destination. These long lines were fast and incredibly fun! During most of the zips, we were seated in our harnesses. On one line, however, the guides offered to re-harness us so that we could fly face-first, superman-style. Of course I couldn't resist, and it was awesome!

The guys helping us with our harnesses were very nice and funny. They barely spoke English, but Kristie and I have both studied Spanish, so we managed to communicate a few essential phrases. I could pretty much understand what everyone was saying, but whenever I spoke, I kept mixing German into my Spanish, which didn't help any, so I stayed silent.

After our zip-line tour, we hopped back into the van and passed by the beautiful lake, El Ramate. I snapped some drive-by scenes from the van window as we bid farewell to Guatemala. We wish we had more time to stay and see other parts of the country, but we had many more adventures planned back in Belize.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/jungle_zipline.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/jungle_zipline.html travel Fri, 28 Nov 2008 12:30:53 -0800 Tikal UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 5 :: TIKAL NATIONAL PARK, PETEN DEPARTMENT, GUATEMALA :: Today we visited the magnificent ruins at Tikal, the largest city of the ancient Mayan civilization. Our adventure started at Chaa Creek with our first wake-up knock at 6:00 AM. This gave us time to eat breakfast and meet with our group that included two exchange students studying in Belize and a friendly military couple enjoying their leave between tours in Iraq. Our Belizean guide for the day was none other than the world-famous Miguel, who I have seen on TV in a couple different travel shows. Like the other tour leaders at Chaa Creek, Miguel underwent training at the US Park Ranger Program in Utah and was an excellent guide, driver and entertainer throughout the day.

Kristie and I are always reluctant to join any tours while we're traveling, but in this case, we're very glad we did. Tikal is in neighboring Guatemala, and we did not want to deal with the paperwork and sketchy process for crossing the border in our rental car or a public bus in which we would likely being sharing a seat with livestock. Our Chaa Creek van was air conditioned and comfortable. Our group was very small, and we enjoyed getting to know everyone as Miguel expertly navigated the potholes in Guatemala's dirt highways.

Tikal is about a two-hour drive from the Belizean border. Near El Remate, we stopped at a roadside store for a pit stop, local coffee, and some shopping. This is also where we met with our Guatemalan guide, Walter, an aspiring lawyer who shared his deep knowledge of Mayan history and culture. There are still many Mayans in Central America, and like many indigenous populations, they haven't always been treated fairly. Walter hopes to be able to defend them in the near future.

The entire park covers an area of 222 square miles. Ten square miles of Central Tikal have been mapped. More than 3000 buildings have been discovered in this area, but only 15% of these have been excavated. Our guides took us on a large loop to see the most prominent temple complexes. We passed by dozens of mounds that still hide structures buried under hundreds of years of jungle growth.

During our entire six-hour walk through Tikal, Kristie and I were enchanted by the mysterious temples and the dense jungle. She paid more attention to Walter's lectures, and I tried my best to sneak away from the group to take photos. I've always dreamed of exploring a Mayan ruin and running up the stairs of a pyramid, so it was hard for me to stand still. But I tried my best to stay within earshot, because the ceremonies, myths, science and numerology of the Mayan civilization were truly fascinating.

Our loop started with the pyramids and stelas at Complex Q and R. We then hiked to Temple IV, which towers 212 feet above the jungle canopy and above all other Mayan structures. Kristie counted 179 steps on the way up. (Nerd Alert: The view from Temple IV is famous for a scene in Star Wars: Episode 4, which you might recognize in the first photo below if you imagine an X-Wing flying over the forest. This was the location of the secret Rebel military base on Yavin 4, where the attack on the Death Star was launched and coordinated. Yes, I was totally geeking out while I was up there!)

We then continued to the Plaza of the Lost World, where Tikal's oldest temple structures can be found. These pyramids were built between 250 and 300 A.D. Finally, we ended our tour at the Great Plaza, where Temple I and II face each other across the "Times Square" of Tikal. We were given 30 minutes to climb up the temples and explore the acropolis before meeting up again for a meal and drinks at the park's restaurant. During that time, we saw a several coatimundis foraging for food from other tourists. A group of howler monkeys also got riled up and filled the park with the most amazing sound. They are the loudest animal on earth, and I certainly wouldn't want anyone to have one as a pet within my zip code - area code even.

After our amazing day at Tikal, we stopped at the park gates to do a quick zip-line tour through the treetops, coming face-to-face with spider monkeys and other jungle creatures.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/tikal.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/tikal.html travel Fri, 28 Nov 2008 11:58:54 -0800 The Lodge at Chaa Creek UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 4 :: CAYO DISTRICT, BELIZE :: Like most travelers to Belize, we planned a surf and turf itinerary, splitting our time between the mainland and the cayes. Our base for five nights would be The Lodge at Chaa Creek, an absolutely amazing eco-resort on a 365 acre nature reserve near the Guatemalan border. We had to drive across the country to get there, but that only took a few hours.

Just beyond the town of San Ignacio, we turned onto a long dirt road that passed through a few farms before gradually entering the jungle and the Chaa Creek property. We would travel back and forth along this road more than a dozen times. At night, we stopped and turned off the headlights to watch the trees sparkle with hundreds of fireflies.

Upon finally arriving at the gates of Chaa Creek, we were greeted with rum punch and refreshingly cool and minty face towels to relieve us from the heat. As our bags were taken to our cottage, our guide took us on a tour of the immaculate grounds, lush with a variety of tropical plants and dotted with charming, thatched roof structures constructed with indigenous materials. When we were taken through the bar and restaurant, we were introduced to several of the staff, all very courteous, attentive and professional.

We were then allowed to enter our cottage, wrapped with a large deck overlooking the Macal River. There are no locks and no windows in Chaa Creek. Only screens to keep out the bugs, which we hardly noticed during our stay. There are also no phones, no clocks, and definitely no TV. The staff woke us every morning for our tours with a wake-up knock.

Despite the lack of these usual "amenities," we felt incredibly spoiled in our beautiful and spacious cottage. The high thatch ceiling was simple, but striking. It even contained a few geckos that screeched and clicked at us occasionally (and left a few tiny, brown gifts on the floor now and then). We loved the little touches, like the fresh flowers and towel sculptures that were placed throughout our room every day.

After settling into our room, we walked up to the bar where I had my first of many Belikins, Belize's own and only beer. It's actually not bad, which is good, because it's hard to find anything else. With drinks in hand, we met the concierge, who spoke about all the activities onsite, including horseback riding, bird watching, butterfly exhibit, history museum, hiking, mountain biking, canoeing, spa treatments - really, too many to list. We also arranged our first tour for the next day - a guided walk through Tikal, the Manhattan of the Mayan Empire.

After planning our tours and inquiring about other local attractions, we entered the restaurant for an elegant and delicious four-course Thanksgiving dinner. Yes, even though we were in Belize, a perfectly prepared wild turkey was on the menu! Accompaniments included salads with fresh produce grown on the resort's Mayan farm, a wonderful tortilla soup, a sweet and savory mango stuffing, creamy mashed potatoes, and either a panna cotta, key lime pie, or some other delectable treat for dessert. It's all a blur of great flavors in my memory right now. Every breakfast and dinner we enjoyed there was something special. For Kristie's vegetarian palate, the chef prepared sides and salads per request. The maître d', chef, and again, the entire staff were very friendly and accommodating.

When we walked back to our cottage, we marvelled at the immediate view of the Milky Way above us. There's very little light pollution in Central America, particularly in Belize. After skyping our families back home to wish them a happy Thanksgiving, we settled into bed, and were at first alarmed by the loud jungle noises. Visit the Chaa Creek website and turn up your speakers. It really sounded like this every night! Very quickly, however, we got used to the otherworldly sound. The cacophony became our lullaby. And every morning, the chorus of squawking and chirping birds accompanied our wake-up knock, reminding us that yes, we had awaken in Paradise yet another day.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/the_lodge_at_chaa_creek.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/the_lodge_at_chaa_creek.html travel Thu, 27 Nov 2008 12:36:00 -0800 The Belize Zoo UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 4 :: BELIZE DISTRICT, BELIZE :: On Thanksgiving morning, Kristie and I arrived in Belize, a tiny Central American country bordered by Mexico, Guatemala, and the Caribbean Sea. Our decision to vacation there was based on raving reviews from more than a few of our friends. The more we heard and read about Belize, the more it enchanted us: lush jungles, tropical wildlife, thousands of Mayan ruins, the largest known cave system in Central America, beautiful white sand beaches, snorkeling in the world's second largest coral reef, sustainable development practices, active environmental conservation efforts, and a very diverse, tourist friendly, English-speaking population. Despite its small size, Belize has much to offer!

During our two-hour flight from Miami to Belize City, we watched the Florida Keys, Cuba, the Yucatan and Cozumel pass under us. Our descent took us over miles and miles of dense jungle. 93% of Belize is under the cover of forests. After we landed at the tiny airport and cleared immigration, we crossed the parking lot with our bags to rent our trusty Isuzu Trooper.

Driving in Belize requires four-wheel drive. The highways are in good condition, but the side streets are pretty sketchy. Bumpy dirt roads and deep potholes are the norm, as are random speed bumps. We hit one that was seemingly in the middle of nowhere as were cruising at about 45 miles per hour. We screamed as the entire vehicle bunny-hopped a foot into the air. Then in slow motion, we watched our luggage go airborne. A group of kids alongside the road pointed at us with eyes and mouths wide open. Fortunately, the Trooper took the landing well and we were unharmed. Whew.

I slowed down after that and quickly learned how to spot the highway speed bumps. We became accustomed to having no lane markers, traffic signals or signs. Weaving around the occassional dog, horse, cow, rooster, or pig became routine. As the locals say, the cops pull over those who drive straight in Belize. Renting a car proved to be a daily adventure, but it also gave us the freedom to enjoy more of the country on our own, including the Belize Zoo, our first stop on our way across the country to our resort near San Ignacio.

The Belize Zoo is billed as "The Best Little Zoo in the World". It's a cute moniker, and one we wholeheartedly agree with. Chances are you've seen it in a nature or travel show. The Today show was there just a couple weeks before us. The Zoo only takes orphaned or rehabilitated animals, and they are all native to Belize. The story behind the zoo's founder is interesting. You can read all about her on the zoo's website.

The animals are in a natural habitat, with real trees and plants. It was very hot and humid, so we appreciated the abundant shade. I think the animals do too. There is very little to separate them from the visitors. We were able to approach within inches of jaguars, pumas, ocelots, various birds, reptiles and of course, Belize's national animal, the tapir. Each animal had a hand-painted sign in front of their enclosure with a cute rhyme as a description. Apparently the zookeeper/founder has a song for each animal and travels the country's schools to sing them. The star of the zoo and Kristie's favorite was Junior, a frisky and friendly, two-year old Jaguar rescued from abandonment.

We spent a much longer time there than we had planned, thoroughly enjoying the laid back and natural environment. It was so unlike most zoos we're used to seeing. The Belize Zoo was a great intro to this amazing country. Over the next nine days, we fell in love with Belize.

Our next stop: Chaa Creek.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/the_belize_zoo.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/the_belize_zoo.html travel Thu, 27 Nov 2008 11:49:55 -0800 Madonna UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 3 :: MIAMI, FL :: A couple years ago, we happened to catch the NBC broadcast of Madonna's Confessions tour at Wembley Stadium and thought it was a pretty awesome show. We told ourselves the next time she's in town, we gotta get tickets.

Well, here's some trivia: Madonna kicked off her Virgin tour in 1985 in Seattle's Paramount Theater. She returned to the Kingdome in 1987, but hasn't been back since. And chances are, she won't ever be back. Key Arena is too small and Qwest Field is too rainy. Perhaps Safeco might someday fit the bill.

But we were in luck. It just so happened that while we were planning our trip to Belize, we noticed Madonna was performing the night we were scheduled to arrive in Miami. I scored a couple floor tickets and we were set to join 50,000 other fans in Dolphin Stadium.

Okay. So I could have made up a story about how this was all Kristie's idea and I really didn't want to go. I could have beaten my chest and grunted I'm a manly man who only listens to classic rock and roll. You see, male Madonna fans seem to fit a certain profile: you're either gay, or you're an overpaid sports celebrity. Not that there's anything wrong with these, but I am neither nor.

I like music that falls into pop, hip hop, electronic and new wave genres. I'm a sucker for dance anthems and love ballads from the 80s. I melt when I hear the soaring voice of a contemporary songstress, especially against a trance, trip hop or downtempo beat. Madonna's music can be categorized under any of these labels. I dig William Orbit, Massive Attack, Björk, Groove Armada, BT, Oakenfold, Prince, Pharrell, Timbaland and Kanye West. Madonna has collaborated with all of these musicians to produce some of her best tracks. That's right, I rock out to Madonna. Ray of Light, Confessions on a Dance Floor, and Hard Candy are in heavy rotation in my playlists.

The thing is, she's now fifty years old. And while the concert was great and Madonna was keeping up with dancers half her age, I really didn't care for the "Sticky & Sweet" theme of this tour. The staging and costuming for the Confessions tour was more appropriate for her age, allowing her to show off her talent with grace and style. She was sexy and stunning in Confessions. A little too trashy and skanky in Sticky & Sweet. I hope she ditches the fishnet stockings, heavy mascara and stripper poles for her next look.

There were some very cool moments, including one during a trancy remix of Eurythmics' "Here Comes The Rain Again" and Madonna's "Rain". During this segment, a pair of kimono-garbed Japanese poppers moved in stroboscopic effect across the stage. There was also a segment with dancing ninjas and another with space robots. Both of those always score high marks in my book. Timbaland and Pharrell also made surprise appearances during the show, her last in the US for the tour.

This was the set list: Candy Shop, Beat Goes On, Human Nature, Vogue, Die Another Day, Into The Groove, Heartbeat, Borderline, She's Not Me, Music, Rain/Here Comes The Rain Again, Devil Wouldn't Recognize You, Spanish Lesson, Miles Away, La Isla Bonita/Lela Pala Tute, Doli Doli, You Must Love Me, Get Stupid, 4 Minutes, Like A Prayer, Ray Of Light, Hung Up, Give It To Me
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/madonna.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/madonna.html shows Wed, 26 Nov 2008 12:40:48 -0800 South Beach UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 3 :: MIAMI, FL :: The drive from Orlando to Miami was easy and took just a little over three hours, thanks to the Florida Turnpike (and perhaps the overly acute angle of my right foot against the gas pedal). It was well worth the $15 in tolls.

We stayed one night in the Nassau Suites, a nice boutique hotel on the National Register of Historic Places located within the famous Art Deco district of South Beach. We were in town to see Madonna in concert that night and our flight to Belize would depart from MIA the next day. Before the concert, we had time to soak in the SoBe vibe with a stroll along Ocean Drive, which was just a couple blocks from the hotel.

Ocean Drive is about a mile long and contains the world's largest concentration of Art Deco architecture, including restored structures and new construction. Their distinctive streamlined shapes face the Atlantic Ocean, obstructed only by palm trees across a white sand beach. At night, the pastel colors of the restaurants, hotels and nightclubs are magnified with bright neon. After dipping our toes in the ocean, Kristie and I had dinner on the sidewalk and enjoyed people watching.

One of the first things we observed is that there are a lot of openly gay men in South Beach. We definitely noticed more PDA between same-sex couples than between hetero couples. During our walk, we saw about forty shirtless guys hanging over the elevated porch rail of a bar, shouting and dancing and embracing and obviously having a great time. They were probably gearing up for the same Madonna concert we were going to.

The other interesting thing we noticed in South Beach is that the women are trying awefully hard to impress someone. Skimpy and tight outfits barely covering outrageously large breasts was the norm. Even the female mannequins we saw through the shop windows were all at least a triple-D.

So you've got this interesting dynamic of women overcompensating and competing to find the last straight guy in a mostly gay town. That's what we theorized anyways. I advise all of my single buddies to move to South Beach right away. The real estate is cheap too!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/south_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/south_beach.html travel Wed, 26 Nov 2008 11:51:13 -0800 Cirque du Soleil: La Nouba UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 2 :: ORLANDO, FL :: Kristie and I love Cirque du Soleil, and we're willing to travel across the country (and someday around the world) to see every one of their productions. I think we might be well on our way. There are currently 18 Cirque shows, and La Nouba was our sixth. If we spent a week in Vegas, we'd be able to check five more off of our list.

As we expected, La Nouba was amazing. Cirque du Soleil are masters at meshing art, acrobatics and amusement into their shows. For 90 minutes, we were in a state of joy, awe and wonder as we witnessed scenes we thought we could only imagine taking place on the stage right before us.

The stage is also an important part of the show and is just as impressive. It seemlessly animates with the choreography to create new spaces, reveal trampolines and nets, unleash a flood of performers, or swallow them whole. As in a dream, the horizontal becomes the vertical, the up becomes the down, and the laws of gravity are suspended.

There were many memorable moments during the show, but our favorite has to be the crossing power tracks, which are basically a pair of long, embedded trampolines that make an X across the stage floor. During this part of the show, the performers fly across the stage, bouncing and twisting all over and under each other at high speeds. We saw a version of this in Alegria and couldn't wait to see it again. We'd have to say La Nouba is our new second favorite Cirque du Soleil show, right behind Mystere.

After the show, we enjoyed walking through the streets of Downtown Disney, which sounds kind of cheesy, but it's actually pretty cool. There were lots of high-end shops, fancy restaurants, a mega-arcade, cinemas, and some happening night clubs. We didn't stay out all night to dance, as we had to wake up early the following day to reach our next destination: South Beach, Miami (cue Miami Vice theme music).
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/cirque_du_soleil_la_nouba.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/cirque_du_soleil_la_nouba.html shows Tue, 25 Nov 2008 12:59:16 -0800 Animal Kingdom UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 2 :: ORLANDO, FL :: Our purpose for visiting Orlando was to see La Nouba, although the show wasn't until later at night. This presented us with the challenge of finding something to do during the day. The only attractions seemed to be the dozen or so theme parks in the area, so we decided to check out Disney's Animal Kingdom.

Arriving when the park opened, we were able to hit the major rides within 90 minutes and completely avoid all the lines, although we actually took our time moving through some of the queueing areas to appreciate the amazingly detailed theming. We rode the Kilimanjaro Safari, Kali River Rapids, Dinosaur and Expedition Everest.

Dinosaur actually did a pretty good job of frightening me. Burning meteorites whizzed through the air and explosions rocked our time-traveling rover. Suddenly, we learned we were being chased, and there were brief glimpses of something menacing in the dark. We rounded a corner and then, wow, there's an in-your-face encounter with a gigantic, very scary and very lifelike dinosaur, furiously shaking and roaring so loudly it rumbled my insides. I swear, little kids were screaming and crying in absolute terror, traumatized for life. It was just a large muppet, but even I was like, "Dude." Stunned and not smiling.

Expedition Everest was also a great ride, climbing up an impressive, ice-laden peak, and then racing back down in fun curves and dives (backwards at times!) to escape the Abominable Snowman! It was like a mashup of the Matterhorn and the Big Thunder Mountain Railroad rides in Disneyland.

We spent a couple more hours walking through the nature trails to see various birds, fish, monkeys, gorillas, tigers and other cool animals. Finally, we decided to check out "The Festival of the Lion King". We weren't sure what to expect. We loved the Tony Award-winning show, and we hoped this performance would be similiar. Upon mentioning this to an usher, she gushed, "Oh, this is so much better than that!" Well, we didn't think so. There were some acrobatics, some fire-dancing, some audience participation and embarassment. It was actually fun, over-the-top and definitely energetic, although I don't understand how the performers can sing "Hakuna Matata" every hour throughout the day without going a little crazy...
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/animal_kingdom.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/animal_kingdom.html travel Tue, 25 Nov 2008 11:49:38 -0800 Grand Cypress Resort UNBELIZEABLE VACATION DAY 1 :: ORLANDO, FL :: So begins our much anticipated, two-week trip to the jungles and beaches of Belize! To kick things off, we traveled through Florida for a few days to check out a couple attractions and to take advantage of airfare discounts to Belize City via Miami. The Sunshine State was a great transition between the cool climate of the Pacific Northwest and the hot and humid tropics of Central America.

We also wanted to ease into the extended vacation mindset. It's rare that Kristie and I travel just for travel's sake. Most of our trips are wrapped around business or conferences. This would be our longest vacation and our first time out of the country together (Canada doesn't really count). During the next 13 days, we gradually shut out all email and phone calls from our lives to fully enjoy our time together. Scheduling the vacation during the Thanskgiving break helped, and our Verizon phones wouldn't work in Belize anyway.

Arriving in Orlando, we stayed at the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress Resort for two nights before driving to Miami. The Grand Cypress is a large and very nice hotel just minutes from the Disney World parks. The nighttime view from our balcony included simultaneous firework shows over Epcot and the Magic Kingdom. During the day, we could look down on the pool, restaurant, small lake and golf course within the resort grounds. The pool has an impressive mini-waterpark, complete with slides, waterfalls and float tunnels that wind alongside the poolside bar. The lake has a white sand beach with canoes, mini-sailboats, and paddleboats for guests to take out. On the second afternoon, we enjoyed a relaxing nap in a beachside hammock.

During our brief stay in Orlando, we visited Disney World's Animal Kingdom and watched Cirque du Soleil's La Nouba.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/grand_cypress_resort.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/grand_cypress_resort.html travel Mon, 24 Nov 2008 11:08:58 -0800 London LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM :: Until now, my business trips have been confined to Canada, Mexico and the United States, where most of our market exists. We have implementations all over the world, however, and this week I finally had the opportunity to visit some of our clients and prospects across the pond in London. Our meetings were very productive and it was great to meet the UK team. I had never been to Britain before, so of course, I took advantage of every opportunity between our meetings to try to see something new.

We stayed in the Hotel Russell in Central London's Bloomsbury neighborhood and traveled by taxi, train and tube - all extremely easy and efficient. An American would need to have a death wish to drive a rental through London's extremely narrow and spidery network of backward streets. We simply don't have the skills.

London was a lot of fun, business meetings included. Nice people, incredible city, great history. I only had a chance to see a few sights, and all of them very briefly. Most of these photos were taken during an early morning walk I took around the city on the morning of our return flight. All of them were shot with my new G10, which produces some pretty decent images and has been very easy to carry around.

At Heathrow, we were able to enjoy the Concorde Room in Terminal 5. Very, very posh! We also did some shopping in the airport's high-end mall. I brought home a Paddington Bear for Kristie, along with a storybook. I gotta admit, we're addicted now. We were surprisingly taken by the adventures of the Peruvian bear, and now every night we look forward to sharing another chapter together.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/london.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/11/london.html travel Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:20:09 -0800 The Slot ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK, CA :: After exploring the Calcite Mine area, I only had a couple hours to check out another nearby canyon, "The Slot". I nearly decided to skip it, but I'm glad I didn't. The passageway through The Slot is pretty cool. It is more jagged and much tighter than the slot at Calcite Mine. More than once I was sucking in my gut and bending my body to squeeze and scrape through. There are also several boulders lodged between the walls, some high above and others closer that formed cave-like corridors.

The Slot is fairly short. After only half a mile the canyon opens up again into the desert. However, I found myself taking my time again to enjoy the unique landscape and the soft, late-afternoon light that turned the grey walls into gold.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/the_slot.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/the_slot.html hikes Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:22:56 -0800 Calcite Mine ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK, CA :: I love slots. Slot canyons, that is. While Kristie was attending her conference today, I was excited to check out two popular slot canyon trails in Anza-Borrego, California's largest state park.

The vast desert and badlands of Anza-Borrego are centered around the town of Borrego Springs, just a couple hours drive from San Diego. Here, I stopped at the park's visitor center to pick up a map and more detailed directions. I also made sure I had enough water. It was about 95 degrees today, but fortunately much cooler in the slots.

My first stop was the abandoned Calcite Mine. Calcite has a unique optical property that made it particularly useful for gun sights during World War II. Throughout the area, flakes of clear calcite mineral sparkled in the sand and rock.

From the freeway, there is a rugged "jeep" road to the slot canyon. I had rented a Jeep Patriot, but it certainly is not the type of jeep that could safely traverse the sandy and steep grade. I'm glad I decided to walk the 1.5 miles, during which I was passed by a couple real 4X4 Jeeps, which I could see were being tested by the deep ruts in the road.

The slot itself is less than half of a mile long, but I spent almost four hours in the area. The unique experience of being in a narrow, twisted canyon is indescribably fascinating to me, so I was inching my way through. Afterwards, I hiked back out and to the end of the jeep road where the bullet-ridden sign for Calcite Mine is. From here, I climbed to the top of a ridge to get a view of the Salton Sea and to enjoy my lunch in the sun. The heat felt great in the dry air.

Calcite Mine was fun, but not too deep and not too narrow. My next stop, "The Slot", was much better.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/calcite_mine.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/calcite_mine.html hikes Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:45:45 -0800 The Neurosciences Institute LA JOLLA, CA :: Kristie is really into the human brain. As an educational therapist, her work and professional development require her to read through volumes of books and periodicals on brain research. In general, she enjoys reading stories about people with brain disorders, and has been known to successfully schmooze her way into doctorate-level neuropsychology courses at the UW.

It was a treat then when I took her to The Neurosciences Institute, a private brain research center in La Jolla and host to the world's top neuroscientists. I had first visited the institute in 1997 during a college field trip, just a year after the architects, Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, had won an AIA Honor Award for excellence in design. We had received a tour of the buildings to appreciate their clean, modern lines and sculptural spaces. The campus was designed as a "scientific monastery," where scientists could retreat to quiet, meditative areas as well as have opportunities to enounter and interact with researchers in other neuro-disciplines. Several outdoor "rooms" are composed of irregular angles and proportions to stimulate new thoughts and perspectives.

Today, we were here to attend a presentation in the institute's auditorium. The materials and shapes in the large theater are accoustically perfect, allowing a person to speak onstage and to be heard without the need for any artificial amplification. The presentation was fittingly on the subject of the human voice, but unfortunately, it wasn't quite what we expected. It was a little too much "finding your spiritual inner-strength," motivational speaker-type fluff, and not as much scientifically substantiated content as we had assumed would be presented at this type of venue. It turns out the institute rents the auditorium to outside groups, and the speaker was not affiliated with the institute in any way.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/the_neurosciences_institute.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/the_neurosciences_institute.html travel Thu, 23 Oct 2008 14:08:29 -0800 Torrey Pines Beach Sunset TORREY PINES STATE NATURAL RESERVE, CA :: On our way through La Jolla, we stopped at Torrey Pines State Reserve for a sunset stroll along its beautiful beach. The day was still very warm and it felt great to get our toes wet in the surf.

Tall sandstone cliffs, atop which are the rare namesake pines, created a very scenic backdrop along the narrow stretch of sand. We admired the interesting patterns and formations in the rock, which seemed to be glowing in the golden light. As the sun dipped into the ocean, Kristie spotted a pod of bottlenose dolphins racing down the shore. It had to be one of the most magical sunsets ever.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/torrey_pines_be.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/torrey_pines_be.html travel Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:08:31 -0800 USS Midway THE MIDWAY MUSEUM, SAN DIEGO, CA :: After walking around Balboa Park, I drove to downtown San Diego's waterfront where the USS Midway is docked. The aircraft carrier was decommissioned in 1997 after 47 years of distinguished service, including the first and last air-to-air kills in the Vietnam War and the only perfect record as commanding flagship in Operation Desert Storm. No other carrier has served as long. Today, the famous warship is a fascinating museum, where the public can learn what life was like aboard a "city at sea." Approximately 4300 crew were needed to support just 200 aviators.

The tour starts in the large hangar bay where massive deck-edge elevators once loaded parked aircraft to the flight deck within seconds. After picking up a self-paced narration device, I was free to explore most of the ship, including the berthing quarters, anchor room, mess halls, engine rooms, sickbay and brig. Apparently, most of my experience with naval ships is derived from science fiction, because throughout the tour I was constantly thinking of Star Trek and Battlestar Galactica episodes, rather than any real-life episodes.

"So this is where McCoy spent most of his time cursing Kirk," I thought as I walked through the sickbay. "And this is where they keep the Cylons," I imagined as I walked behind the bars of the brig. I think the teleporter room was off-limits, for obvious safety reasons.

After tunneling through the confusing labyrinth of narrow corridors, portals, and stairs for a couple hours, I was craving some natural light. Plenty of that was found on the flight deck, along with many planes, helicopters and other exhibits. The deck spans four acres and is longer than three football fields at 1001 feet, although the actual landing area with the arresting wires is less than the size of a tennis court.

The Island, essentially the bridge and flight control tower, is the last and best area to tour on the flight deck. Here, retired-Navy volunteer docents lead small groups up several flights of stairs and speak about how these areas were used, while demonstrating the charts and controls, and sharing their own personal stories. It's all pretty frakking amazing.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/uss_midway.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/uss_midway.html travel Thu, 23 Oct 2008 12:54:38 -0800 Balboa Park BALBOA PARK, SAN DIEGO, CA :: I started today with a walk through Balboa Park, San Diego's much larger version of the Seattle Center. The park was established in 1835, but most of the major buildings, halls, fountains, gardens and avenues were designed for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, celebrating the completion of the Panama Canal and highlighting San Diego as the first U.S. port for ships crossing from the Atlantic. The architecture is based on the Spanish Colonial and Romanesque styles, featuring many ornately sculpted details, courtyards and long colonnades.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to check out any of the 20+ performance areas and museums, other than to poke my head into a few, but I had a great time exploring the grounds and taking a few photos. San Diego should be proud: Balboa Park is a wonderful urban center, providing many activities and interesting spaces to enjoy within a very cohesively designed and remarkably clean environment.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/balboa_park.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/balboa_park.html travel Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:34:51 -0800 Mission Beach MISSION BEACH, SAN DIEGO, CA :: One of the first things we did when we arrived in San Diego was to hit the beach. The Mission Bay Aquatic Center rented us a couple bodyboards along with spring suits for cheap. We then walked to Mission Beach, toting our boards through the alleyways of Mission Boulevard, filled with colorful condos, surf shacks, and sidewalk cafés.

It was a warm and sunny day, but the water was surprisingly cold at first. After the initial shock, we quickly acclimated and were happy to be swimming and surfing. We figured we were in a good spot because there were a ton of other surfers and boarders around us, but we each had plenty of space. Even if we weren't always able to catch a wave, it was awesome to be bobbing up and down in the world's largest wave pool, within feet of cruising pelicans and dive-bombing cormorants.

At first, I was able to ride several waves, but then I started over-analyzing it, and couldn't get back into the groove. Kristie only got better. She would be right next to me as a large wave crashed over us, causing me to tumble. As I recovered and looked around, I saw her a hundred feet away, almost back at the beach, shouting and bragging triumphantly. It was incredibly fun and we can't wait to hit the waves again!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/bodyboarding_mission_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/bodyboarding_mission_beach.html travel Wed, 22 Oct 2008 11:12:40 -0800 Kona Kai Resort SHELTER ISLAND, SAN DIEGO, CA :: Kristie and I were reluctant to end our summer, so we spent a week vacationing in sunny San Diego where it was 80-plus degrees every day. We stayed at the Kona Kai Resort, where Kristie also attended an ET* conference. The Kona Kai is located on Shelter Island, a small community with several tiki-themed resorts and a popular promenade featuring a gorgeous view of San Diego's skyline across the bay.

There was no shortage of activities to enjoy in the sun. We had a great time bodyboarding the waves along Mission Beach, exploring the architecture and gardens in Balboa Park, touring the USS Midway aircraft carrier, seeing wild bottlenose dolphins and a romantic sunset along Torrey Pines Beach, listening to a presentation at The Neurosciences Institute, hiking through the narrow slot canyons of the Anza-Borrego Desert, enjoying the expansive view from Cabrillo Monument, shopping at touristy Seaport Village and charming Old Town, and ocean-kayaking the cave-strewn and shark-infested shores of La Jolla!

* This ET, not this ET.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/kona_kai_resort.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/kona_kai_resort.html travel Tue, 21 Oct 2008 11:18:05 -0800 Hoh River Trail OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: This weekend I backpacked the Hoh River Trail with Jacob, Jayson and Pat, three great friends for over 20 years now. We camped two nights at a small, riverside meadow near Olympus Guard Station and hiked for three days, covering 30 miles to Elk Lake and back.

We got a very early start Saturday morning, departing Seattle at 5:00 AM and hitting the trailhead at 10:00 AM. The weather was sunny and the 10 miles to our campsite were fairly flat and easy, with a few wide creeks we carefully crossed via giant fallen tree trunks. The leaves were changing colors and the air was crisp. It was a long and beautiful walk, interrupted many times by our cameras shooting yet another scene.

Throughout the day we heard the haunting bugle of bull elk in rut. Near a creek crossing, we were frightened by several "threat rumbles" from an unseen bull, clearly telling us to stay away. There were signs posted at the trailhead warning of elk attacking hikers, so we quickly moved along. We felt these rumbles more than we heard them. The bull was literally shaking the ground with just his throat.

At camp we built a fire and enjoyed our usual debates across a variety of topics, free from the rolling eyes and yawns of our significant others.

The next day, we had originally planned to hike 15 miles to Glacier Meadows, but we got a late start and clouds had rolled in to obscure any views we might have enjoyed. Instead, we chose to go to Elk Lake, only 11 miles there and back and half the elevation gain (2000'). Along the way, we crossed an impressive bridge over Martin Creek, saw the smashed remnants of the Elk Lake "Emergency" Shelter, and pestered Pat about his GPS, which was providing wildly inconsistent readings throughout our trip.

That night we were fortunate to have another dry evening around the campfire, but on our last day, the "rain" part of the Hoh Rain Forest was emphasized. It poured non-stop all night and all day as we packed up camp and hiked 10 miles back. Had it been that way from the start, I might have been upset, but chances are pretty good that you'll get wet at some point on this hike. The last day was the perfect time for us to get our due. We were able to dry off at the Visitor Center and enjoy dinner in Hoquiam before returning home from another great trip.

More photos at Jayson's gallery and Jacob's blog.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/hoh_river_trail.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/hoh_river_trail.html hikes Sun, 12 Oct 2008 11:02:05 -0800 Mythbusters MOORE THEATRE, SEATTLE, WA :: The Mythbusters, Jamie Hyneman and Adam Savage, were in Seattle to share behind-the-scenes stories from their popular television show. I think I've seen every episode, and Kristie gets a kick out of it as well. Their show is interesting and entertaining, and their presentation tonight was no different. Dr. Warren Buck, a UW physics professor and Pacific Science Center board member, guided the conversation, asking Jamie and Adam to discuss their backgrounds, methods, and what it takes to put together the show. It often requires a few weeks to shoot a single episode, involving much research, planning, and many permits. Often the results of the Mythbusters' tests are requested by other research agencies to back their own science and/or safety data.

They also showed some hilarious clips they weren't allowed to air on TV, including the lighting of flatus, along with a reel of several bloopers, curse marathons, and their most powerful explosions. They then spent a lot of time answering questions from the audience, many of which were asked by some extremely smart kids. I imagine the Mythbusters are the closest thing to Mr. Wizard that this young generation has. Jamie and Adam don't purport to be scientists, but their problem solving methods are often scientific... And if their systematic experimentation doesn't produce the intended result, then they adjust the variables to ensure everything gets blown up! What kid (young and old) can resist that?
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/mythbusters.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/10/mythbusters.html shows Sat, 04 Oct 2008 11:21:22 -0800 Point of Arches OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: I joined a few buddies from work for a weekend at Point of Arches and Shi Shi Beach, certainly one of the most spectacular beaches in the world. No, the water is not warm and clear, and the sand is not white and soft, but this narrow crescent of coastline is more alive and wild than most. With the impenetrable rainforest on one side and the seemingly infinite Pacific Ocean on the other, this tenuous boundary is always an exciting place. It is where one can witness the Earth's engine in motion, driven by celestial gears and pistons extending to the Moon, the Sun and the galaxies beyond. It is a powerful nexus where land, sea and the heavens abruptly meet. It is where nature reminds us that she is in charge and we are her humble tenants.

Our three days and two nights were filled with a mix of exercise, exploration, relaxation and rejuvenation. We passed the time with jokes, conversation, chess, footbag, sand sculptures, and grand bonfires (and much drinking!). Despite the limited sunshine, it was an awesome weekend. The nearly constant fog contributed to the insular and introspective mood, but we were glad to see it lift. It gave way on the second night, offering us a filtered sunset and a clear view of the cosmos. We watched the Milky Way, heard the crashing ocean, and felt the blaze of the fire. I doubt there are many experiences on this planet that are more sublime.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/09/point_of_arches_1.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/09/point_of_arches_1.html hikes Sat, 06 Sep 2008 11:24:50 -0800 Orca Cruise SAN JUAN ISLANDS, WA :: Kristie and I enjoyed our Labor Day weekend with an orca watching trip via Island Mariner Cruises. Their 110' boat conveniently departed from Bellingham to take us on a scenic, eight-hour voyage around the San Juan Islands. We were able to avoid the ferries and be back home before sunset.

The boat was accompanied by a seaplane that spotted the orca pods and allowed the outfitter to guarantee a sighting. However, on this calm and clear day, the spotter wasn't necessary, as we were able to see all of the pods from quite a distance away. A naturalist was also onboard to narrate our journey and help us identify the J, K and L pods and some of the individual orcas.

Fortunately, the orcas were very active. We saw several spy-hop, breach and lobtail. They were also feeding, swimming in circles, and jumping often. Among the pods were cute little babies and enormous old guys that dwarfed some of the smaller boats.

There are laws to protect the orcas that kept us from getting as close as we would have liked. The boat could not maneuver into their path and had to remain at least 100 yards away on all sides. If the orcas decided to swim towards us, we were lucky. This only happened a couple times. For the most part, we relied on our binoculars and my 300mm telephoto lens, which is woefully inadequate. Some guy had a 600mm monster on his Nikon and I was super jealous.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/orca_cruise.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/orca_cruise.html misc Sun, 31 Aug 2008 11:02:10 -0800 Klapatche to Cougar Rock THE WONDERLAND TRAIL DAY 3 :: MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA :: We started our third day early on another cold and misty morning. Today would be a challenge, requiring eight hours on the trail. Our next stop at Cougar Rock Campground was over 15 miles and 3500 vertical feet away. The plan was to meet up with the girls, enjoy a nice meal, warm up by a fire, camp, resupply, and continue around the mountain without Dave.

The scenery continued to amaze us: melting snowfields, sharp ridges, narrow bridges, brilliant wildflowers, open prairies, dark forests and remnants of the great flood in November 2006. The skies were overcast throughout the day, so we were not able to see much of Rainier. Fortunately, it didn't rain.

The going was extremely tough to the Suspension Bridge. We climbed 500 feet, dropped 2000 feet, climbed 1600 feet, and dropped down again 1300 feet. Dave and Jayson sped ahead while Jake and I trudged along, falling far behind. We met up at the bridge and refueled for another grueling 1000 foot ascent to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. Along this climb I thought I had finally caught my second wind, motivated by the thought of soon meeting Kristie (and steak and beer!), I surged up the mountain and kept pace with Jayson, but upon reaching the relatively flat prairies at Indian Henry's, I completely bonked out. I can't recall ever feeling anything like that before. I wasn't sore or in any pain; I just no longer had the energy to move my feet another step. I told Jayson to go on ahead, and I sat down and munched through some gorp, waiting to see if Jacob would catch up. I did this several more times, making my way very slowly to Devil's Dream. From there, I caught another burst of energy and was running down the mountain to Pyramid Creek. Here I was too tired to use my water purifier, and took large gulps directly from the silty river. I was also taking far fewer photos.

I caught up with Jayson and Dave again at the devasted Kautz Creek crossing and cheered up, thinking it was all downhill to Cougar Rock from here. Nope. A few unanticipated steep climbs destroyed my spirit, and I bonked out over and over, needing to stop, rest and eat several times. It was only a few miles to camp, but I was overwhelmed with frustration and despair. It sucked. I knew I would eventually make it to Cougar Rock, but for the first time, I was beginning to seriously doubt whether I would be able to finish the Wonderland.

I somehow caught up with Jayson again on the road to Cougar Rock. We knew it wasn't much more than a mile from this point, so we marched briskly up the hill, avoiding the oncoming traffic. Still no sign of Jacob.

It was awesome seeing Kristie at the campground. I was so happy and so relieved. There were also piles of food and beer on the table that Jessica, Elizabeth and Bex had brought, along with some fancy cupcakes to celebrate a niece's birthday. Jayson and Jessica finally found Jake at Longmire when they went on a run for firewood. Together again, it didn't take long to agree that Rainier had kicked our asses; we would end our attempt of the Wonderland. Jayson had a monstrous blister the size of a baseball on his heel and Jacob had strange lumps the size of golfballs on his wrists. I was relatively unscathed, but had to admit I was way too out of shape to finish. There were much tougher days ahead of us and we hadn't planned a reasonable amount of time. Perhaps we'll try again next year.

We enjoyed burgers and steaks that night, along with those cupcakes and beer. We were exhausted, so we retired early, but not before an obligatory round of Chubby Bunny.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/klapatche_to_cougar_rock.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/klapatche_to_cougar_rock.html hikes Sat, 02 Aug 2008 11:06:54 -0800 Golden Lakes to Klapatche THE WONDERLAND TRAIL DAY 2 :: MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA :: We were still in good spirits as we began our second day on The Wonderland Trail, although the mood was dampened a bit by the wet and heavy fog. The trek to Klapatche Park was misty, rainy and cold, but also thrilling and beautiful. From Golden Lakes, we climbed to a wide, grassy hilltop speared by the silver trunks of dead, skeletal trees. In the thick fog, we paused to admire this stark scene. Jacob was inspired to dance.

A long descent through thick forests brought us to a crossing at North Puyallup River, which cascades and plunges down the Mountain in a series of impressive waterfalls. After a brief break, we ascended the steep climb to Klapatche Park, made worse by the fields of snow still present across the bare slopes and nearly vertical gullies. The route was easy to find, thanks to the prints of hikers before us, mostly coming from the opposite, easier direction. The snow made the rain more miserable and slowed us down, but it was actually perfect for hiking through. Perhaps a week earlier, it would have been too icy for our boots. A week later, it would have been too punchy.

We finally reached Klapatche Park and Aurora Lake, still socked in by the fog. We setup camp and tried our best to dry our soaking wet clothes and stay warm. Most of the Wonderland's campsites forbid fires, so this was especially difficult. We took turns taking shots of David's foul grog and entertained ourselves with a game Jacob and Jayson invented. Taking turns, we came up with original insults beginning with the next letter in the alphabet. After going through the alphabet several times, I was told my lips were turning blue. It was time to crawl into my bag and take a nap.

Fortunately, the clouds started to break as we all hibernated in our tents. Patches of blue sky started to appear and we sought shafts of sunlight to bask in. Across the lake and through the trees, we took notice of some interesting rock formations on the other side of the ravine. We thought they resembled the monoliths in Yosemite and excitedly began shooting photos of them. Unknown to us was that behind the higher clouds, Mt. Rainier was looming a full vertical mile directly above these "monoliths". They were soon dwarfed as the Mountain broke through its shroud. We were awed that something so large and so close could be so hidden.

The view of Rainier reflecting in Aurora Lake was quite a sight, and I swear, the reconstituted beef stroganoff I had for dinner was one of the best tasting and most satisfying meals I have ever savored. Finally, I was warm again. I just needed some food - something I was beginning to realize I hadn't packed enough of. Studying the calorie content of my beef jerky, gorp, chocolate bars and dehydrated meals, I realized I barely had 2500 calories per day. The problem was, I was easily going to burn through at least 5000 per day, perhaps much more.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/golden_lakes_to_klapatche_park.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/08/golden_lakes_to_klapatche_park.html hikes Fri, 01 Aug 2008 11:36:19 -0800 Mowich Lake to Golden Lakes THE WONDERLAND TRAIL DAY 1 :: MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA :: We were in high spirits as we began our much anticipated and ambitious attempt of The Wonderland Trail. With our confidence bolstered by the beaming sun, we embarked on the grand loop around Mt. Rainier from the trailhead at Mowich Lake. Our path would include more than 93 miles and climb over 23,000 vertical feet. "Bring it on," we said, believing we would easily finish our journey in just seven days, skipping proudly with our 40 pound packs along the way.

Oh sweet, treacherous naiveté, how quickly you were pursued by pain and humility!

We were forced to quit after just three days. The Mountain had defeated us. Fortunately, our third camp was a resupply stop at Cougar Rock, where Kristie, Jessica and Elizabeth very kindly met us. After being fed, we begged them to take us home. To be fair, David had only planned to join us for those first three days, so his trip ended exactly how he planned it.

However, Jacob, Jayson and I, the "experienced" backpackers of the group, had no excuses. We failed. Blisters, tendonitis and diarrhea - all on a massive scale - along with the sheer inability to take another step, had completely sapped our will to face the much tougher days ahead of us.

Despite this disappointing end, we were still able to experience 37 spectacular miles of the aptly named Wonderland Trail. During our first day, we covered a little over 10 miles through ancient forests, stepping atop sponge-soft trail. It was pretty much straight down from Mowich Lake to South Mowich River and then straight back up to Golden Lakes. That's the thing about the Wonderland Trail - there are maybe five total miles of level terrain along the entire route. The remainder is either a long climb or a long descent, one immediately after another.

Of course, the ups and downs reveal a constantly changing and dramatic landscape. As we trudged along, we were rewarded with awesome vistas and vivid explosions of wildflowers. Occasionally, through the clouds, we caught a glimpse of Rainier as well.

The next two posts will cover the second and third days. You should also visit Jacob's and Jayson's websites for more great photos.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/mowich_lake_to_golden_lakes.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/mowich_lake_to_golden_lakes.html hikes Thu, 31 Jul 2008 11:31:26 -0800 Navaho Peak WENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I joined Jayson, Jessica and Jacob for an overnighter to Navaho Peak via the Stafford Creek trail in the Teanaway. Due to the heavy snowfall this winter, this was one of only a few high elevation options that was hikable and within a few hours drive of Seattle. Our other consideration was a beach hike, but we were trying to include some elevation to prepare for our upcoming trip on The Wonderland Trail.

The trail is fourteen miles roundtrip and gains 4100'. Most of it climbs very gradually through forest before reaching a pretty green meadow. This is probably a great place to camp, but we pressed on into the open and arid zone. It was tough with the camping gear on our backs and the sun beating down on us, but a good breeze was blowing most of the day to keep us cool. The breeze also mitigated the bugs around our campsite, but kicked up a lot of sand and dust. Keeping our tents secured was a challenge as well.

We ended up camping at the four-way trail junction along the county line (Navaho Pass?). It wasn't an ideal campsite, being a couple hundred yards away from the nearest water source, exposed and often passed by other hikers, but the in-your-face view of the Stuart Range made it worth it. The colors during sunset were a treat as well.

More photos at Jayson's and Jacob's websites.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/navaho_peak.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/navaho_peak.html hikes Sat, 12 Jul 2008 11:46:15 -0800 Fourth of July SOMEWHERE BETWEEN EDMONDS AND MUKILTEO, WA :: My boss very kindly invited us to celebrate the Fourth of July with his family and friends. He and his neighbors gathered together to put on a mini-block party in their cul-de-sac. It was pretty cool! There were several grills and tables arranged on the street and kids running around everywhere. We enjoyed playing holey board, tasting wine, eating great food, and meeting wonderful people. The evening was topped off with an impressive, private fireworks show. Apparently the big rockets and shells are still legal to launch in unincorporated Snohomish County. The fireworks were a lot of fun, but also a little crazy!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/fourth_of_july_1.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/fourth_of_july_1.html events Fri, 04 Jul 2008 11:48:04 -0800 Horsetail Falls Loop COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA, OR :: On my way back home from Painted Hills, I made a stop again at the waterfalls between exits 31 and 35 on Interstate 84. I have to say, this place is very special. Everything about this area is beautiful. The wide Columbia River Gorge is flanked by a seemless carpet of greenery and enclosed by towering basalt cliffs. I enjoyed cruising the Historic Highway's smooth, curvy blacktop, bordered by stone walls and dappled with sunlight filtering through large, leafy, overhanging branches. I imagine it would be quite a spectacle during the Fall.

Along this road are several turnouts and parking lots for about a dozen waterfalls and trailheads. I pulled over at Horsetail Falls, grabbed my tripod, and hiked a very pretty 2.7 mile loop. The well-maintained trail very quickly climbs 600' before reaching Upper Horsetail Falls (Ponytail Falls). The trail wraps behind this one, which is always fun, and continues upwards a little bit and onward to Oneonta Gorge, crossing it via a footbridge that offers a great view of Upper Oneonta Falls. Beyond the bridge is a fork which I wish I had known more about. Taking the path South leads you to Triple Falls in about a mile. I went North to reconnect with the main trail that offers views of the river gorge along the cliff's rim before descending back to the road.

After returning to my car, I drove a short ways to Wahkeena Falls, where a quick, mile-long trail takes you to a viewpoint and back. Then of course, I did the short walk to the viewpoint for Multnomah Falls, which can't be missed, and grabbed an ice cream cone before heading back home.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/horsetail_falls_loop.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/horsetail_falls_loop.html hikes Thu, 03 Jul 2008 11:01:38 -0800 Biglow Canyon Wind Farm SHERMAN COUNTY, OR :: I love roadtrips, but they're a little more expensive these days. My trip through Central Oregon and back totaled 1000 miles. Optimistically, my Pathfinder gets about 20 mpg on the freeway, although likely a couple miles less considering the way I drive. So on this trip, I must have burned through at least 50 gallons. That's a lot of fuel and a lot of dollars.

I'm in the camp that is glad gas prices have risen. Unfortunately, it seems to be the only thing that will motivate citizens, government and corporations to become serious about our unsustainable dependence on oil.

As I drove by the hundreds of beautiful windmills in the Biglow Canyon Wind Farm, I hoped I was witnessing an aggressive push towards alternative, clean energy. I hoped it would prove remarkably successful and would not be another shortsighted and problematic fad. I hoped that someday sooner rather than later, I would be able to drive by those windmills again in an electric car that was powered directly from them. How cool would that be?

Currently, wind power only provides 1% of the US's energy needs, but wind farms are being constructed at an accelerating rate. In fact, in addition to tripling the size of the Biglow Canyon Wind Farm, Oregon is in the process of installing the largest single wind farm in the world, capable of generating nearly a gigawatt of energy - enough to power 225,000 homes!

If you'd like to know more, there is a lot of interesting information on wind energy at the American Wind Energy Association's website.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/biglow_canyon_wind_farm.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/biglow_canyon_wind_farm.html misc Thu, 03 Jul 2008 10:15:36 -0800 Painted Hills JOHN DAY FOSSIL BED NATIONAL MONUMENT, OR :: After a long drive through the Columbia River Gorge and Central Oregon's scenic high desert, I arrived at Painted Hills. Pulling into the viewpoint parking lot a couple hours before sunset, I realized I was quite lucky with my timing. The hills were glowing golden in the evening light and the colors within the claystone striations were further saturated from a rain storm that had just recently passed.

The layers are over 33 million years in the making. Varying sediments and volcanic ash deposits created the long red ribbons and streaking black dots. I wandered along the three trails in the area: a path that originates from the viewpoint, the Painted Coves trail that features a nice boardwalk, and the Leaf Hill Trail, where tens of thousands of well-preserved plant fossils have been discovered. Each trail is a quarter to one-half mile long.

I had the entire area to myself that evening, during which time I took most of these photos. I returned again the next morning to shoot a couple more. It is definitely a site worth checking out if you're ever in Central Oregon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/painted_hills.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/painted_hills.html hikes Wed, 02 Jul 2008 12:34:05 -0800 Lower Oneonta Falls COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA, OR :: On a whim, I took a couple days off from work before July 4th to enjoy a roadtrip to Central Oregon. My destination was the Painted Hills. On the way there and back, I stopped along the Historic Columbia River Highway to hike a few of its famous waterfall trails.

The first of which was Oneonta, a very pretty waterfall spilling 70' into a lush, narrow gorge. The only way to see it is to wade a quarter of a mile through its outlet stream, which is usually no deeper than a foot. The creek does dip in one section, however, and there's no avoiding water up to your armpits. If you're any shorter than me at six feet, you're probably swimming through this part. The rocks below are slick and the water is pretty cold. Fortunately, the air was about 90 degrees, so I was able to warm up and dry out pretty quick.

The only tricky and dangerous part is the enormous log jam at the gorge's entrance. These are extremely slippery and should be negotiated very carefully. I would also suggest a waterproof sack for your camera and a towel to dry the constant spray off the lens.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/lower_oneonta_falls.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/07/lower_oneonta_falls.html hikes Wed, 02 Jul 2008 11:13:08 -0800 Front Yard Facelift EDMONDS, WA :: When we bought our house, we were initially attracted to the very large pine tree in the front yard. Its branches extended over the street and roof, creating a cozy, woodsy landscape. Well, the charm faded as we gradually learned the pine was a menace to the house and other plants. Hardly anything could grow underneath, buckets of sap dripped onto my car, truckloads of pine needles littered the roof and clogged the gutters, the root system was threatening our sewer line, and the county removed the street-facing branches to avoid the power lines. The beauty became the beast and was brought down.

After the two-foot diameter stump and its root ball was ground out, we took steps to rejuvenate the soil. Several cubic yards of organic compost and new topsoil were tilled into the compacted turf. To neutralize the acidic soil, we incorporated a couple large bags of lime. We allowed the soil to mend as we waited for warmer weather.

During this time, we widened the driveway by four feet so that I wouldn't need to park in our new frontyard. To prepare the site, I dug a trench that was 25 feet long, 5 feet wide and a foot deep. That's a lot of digging. We filled it with gravel and topped it off with screed sand. On this level subsurface, we arranged nearly a thousand pavers into a basketweave pattern. I must say, it looks pretty nice, and we hope to redo our front entry and back patio in the same way.

Although we didn't seem to have a Spring this year, the weather did finally become a little warmer, and we planted three Himalayan Birches, a Chinese Dogwood and a Shindeshojo Japanese Maple. We then defined three planting areas with edging, covered them with landscaping fabric, and then topped them with bark nuggets.

Finally, we were ready to plant the new lawn. Fall is the best time to plant, but we were in a rush. Spring is the second best time, but as we learned, the new lawn competes with the season's weeds. We spread premium seed and covered with a thin layer of peat moss. In a few weeks, we had a lush new lawn, but it seemed half of it was weeds. We pulled all of them out, patched the areas with new topsoil, and seeded again. A couple more weeks, and voila, a new yard!

It was a lot of work, but we actually enjoyed it and are proud of the results. We also got to know many of our neighbors better as they stopped by to check on our progress. They freqently and frankly commented that we went from having one of the ugliest yards on the street, to one of the nicest.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/front_yard_face.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/front_yard_face.html projects Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:57:24 -0800 Mt. Lillian & Naneum Meadow WENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: Kristie attended yet another conference at Suncadia Resort in Cle Elum. Although Suncadia is nice, there's not much to do in town. I tagged along anyway to catch up on some reading, walk through the shops in Leavenworth, and to check out the Mt. Lillian and Naneum Meadow trail near Blewett Pass.

You'll definitely want to bring along a Green Trails Map of the area (Liberty, WA - No 210), as there are many criss-crossing trails along the route, shared by cars, motorbikes, snowmobiles, hunters and horses. I hiked a nice loop, starting about half a mile north of Haney Meadow, as far as I could safely drive up the deeply rutted and muddy road. From there, I connected with trail 1601 to the summit of Mt. Lillian, where strange rock formations exist, including one that bears a striking resemblance to an elephant.

After a short descent, the trail meets up with a dirt road which I followed for a quarter mile to trail 1372, which continues south for about four miles, crossing through swampy meadows and forest and then looping back north along a valley hillside towards Naneum Meadow. Here, I connected with trail 1381, taking me back to the main road, which I followed for about a mile back to my car. The entire trip is just under 12 miles, with about 1500' in elevation change.

I heard a couple motorbikes in the far distance, but I did not see another person on the trail. For the most part, the trails are in great shape. I just noticed one area where the motorbikes seem to have taken their toll, carving a path that dipped me into a trench up to my shoulders.

There were just a couple small patches of snow, which I'm sure are completely melted out by now. I'm guessing the area will soon become much busier and noisier as the weather improves, so this might be a hike to save for next Spring if you would like to enjoy natural sounds and solitude.

Trip report posted with additional discussion at nwhikers.net.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/mt_lillian_naneum_meadow.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/mt_lillian_naneum_meadow.html hikes Sun, 22 Jun 2008 11:32:03 -0800 Wenatchee River Whitewater WENATCHEE RIVER, CASHMERE, WA :: Kristie rounded up thirteen friends and family (including her mom!) for an incredibly fun whitewater rafting ride on the Wenatchee River. The river was flowing high and fast, and we got plenty soaked bumping through the Class III waves.

When we weren't getting splashed by the river, we'd engage other rafts in fierce water battles, drenching friends and strangers with pails of water. We attempted a sneak attack by slowly rowing up behind our next target, but we were foiled when Kristie, apparently not aware of Sun-Tzu's virtue of stealth, released her uncontainable excitement just as we were short of firing range by shouting out, "WE'RE GONNA GET YOU!", giving our opponent plenty of time to turn around and arm themselves.

Oh well. It was just as fun to be on the receiving end of a water assault, and certainly refreshing on this perfectly sunny and warm day! Both weekends before and after our trip were cloudy and rainy, so we considered ourselves very lucky.

I used the Elph on this trip, enclosed in its waterproof case. I think it worked pretty well - the photos are much better than the water-proof disposables we used on our Sauk River ride. Some photos were provided by Snow Dragon Adventure Shots.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/wenatchee_river_whitewater.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/wenatchee_river_whitewater.html misc Sat, 14 Jun 2008 12:07:03 -0800 200th Post EDMONDS, WA :: To celebrate the 200th entry on johnandkristie.com, I treated the website to a minor facelift. There is a little less clutter than before, allowing the photos to stand out stronger against the darker background. I also got rid of all the serifs on the fonts and logo to give the site a more modern appearance. We hope you like it!

As with the 100th Post milestone, I'd like to share a few statistics: The website is now composed of over 2200 photos and more than 58,000 words. We continue to log about 120 visits per day, but will spike at times to over 500 per day, particularly around the holidays when people are searching for "vegan sugar cookie" recipes.

The "Perfect Vegan Sugar Cookies" entry has received over 50,000 visits, eclipsing every other post on the website. Who knew the world had such a strong need for a good vegan cookie? The "Projects" are definitely the most popular category on the website. I was even interviewed by a Wall Street Journal Weekend Edition reporter for my entry on the "Mini-Pendant Chandelier", but I don't think her story about "IKEA Hackers" has yet to be published. The attention and number of comments are inspiring, and I wish I had more time to work on additional projects.

Here's a summary of the top 15 posts and referrers to the website:

Most Popular Posts
Visits
   Top Referrals (since Jan '07)
Visits
 
   
Perfect Vegan Sugar Cookies
50291
   stumbleupon.com
3908
The Centipede
5665
   elise.com
2380
Mini Pendant Chandelier
4854
   google.com
2153
Panda Cake
3379
   instructables.com
790
XBOX Mod
2831
   nwhikers.net
727
Commonwealth Basin
2647
   ikeainstructables.blogspot.com
623
Halloween Sugar Cookies
2607
   unplggd.com
326
Free iPod
2375
   postpunkkitchen.com
275
Kristie's 30th Birthday
2221
   seattlecasbah.com
259
Cirque du Soleil: Mystere
2049
   community.livejournal.com
228
Rattlesnake Ledge
1889
   blog.vegcooking.com
223
Green Mountain
1707
   zotsandboo.com
199
Dragonfly Mosaic
1677
   wideangle.ca
175
Bamboo Fountain
1667
   brookethevegan.blogspot.com
167
Fireplace Renovation
1578
   photoblogs.org
159

We recently discovered a funny group on MySpace dedicated to our website: "The Disciples of John and Kristie". We have no idea who these people are, but we think we might like to. They seem pretty cool!

Kristie and I continue to receive a lot of joy from this website. We love to review the highlights of our life together and share those moments with our family and friends. Thanks again for all the visits and wonderful comments!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/200th_post.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/200th_post.html projects Sat, 14 Jun 2008 11:42:41 -0800 Campbell's Resort CHELAN, WA :: Chelan has always been one of Kristie's favorite spots in Eastern Washington. Through high school and college, she would frequently join her friends here to enjoy the small shops, the large lake, and the reliably warm weather - it is sunny 300 days per year in Chelan.

Kristie was in town this week to attend a conference for young, independent insurance agents - basically a 72 hour party. The conference was at Campbell's Resort. We stayed in a newly remodeled room facing the lake, directly across from the main pool. It was nice!

I used the resort as a base for my hike to Stehekin and for our whitewater rafting trip on the Wenatchee River. We were with David and Heather, joining them during the evening for dinner and drinks. We also met up with some of the other agents at a club. At this point, I must have been feeling pretty good, because Kristie was able to drag me on to the dance floor without any protest.

The lake was still too cold for waterskiing or jetskiing. We saw a few people on the water, but they were in wetsuits. We had just gone rafting, so we decided to save skiing on Lake Chelan as an excuse to return again on a warmer weekend.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/campbells_resort.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/campbells_resort.html misc Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:50:25 -0800 Chelan Lakeshore Trail WENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: The Lakeshore Trail is an incredible hike that is well worth the extra effort to reach it. After a three hour car ride to Chelan from the Seattle area, backpackers must board a passenger ferry that takes another three hours to arrive at the trailhead near Prince Creek. Fortunately, Kristie and I were staying at nearby Campbell's Resort for a conference, so my journey to the trail was divided into a more leisurely two days.

Aboard the ferry, I met a trio of seasoned backpackers who were taking three days to hike the 18 miles to Stehekin. I had planned to do it in two, camping at Flick Creek, 14 miles in. That would leave just the last four miles for the following day, ensuring an early arrival at the Stehekin Lodge and plenty of time to catch the express ferry back to Chelan.

At Prince Creek, the four of us deboarded as a group of about 20 other backpackers, who had just finished the reverse route, climbed on. They warned us of rattlesnakes and ticks, which I fortunately did not find. Nor did I see another person on the entire trail.

I did spot dozens of lizards, chipmunks, birds, deer and a lone mountain goat. Of course, I also enjoyed the amazing views of Lake Chelan, the third deepest lake in the United States. The weather was perfect. Sunny and warm, but refreshingly breezy. The air was filled with the sweet fragrance of ponderosas and purple lupine. At times, the sunlight filtered through the lake, producing an amazing turquoise color. I think I wore a smile during the entire hike.

At Flick Creek, my jaw dropped in awe, and then I laughed giddily in disbelief. Here lies the most beautiful campsite on the trail, and perhaps one of the best I've ever seen. The site is located alongside a bouldered shore, with views of snow-capped peaks over the gem-like lake. A floating dock, log shelter, picnic table, fire pit, bear locker, and fancy toilet are some of the other amenities. I was surprised it wasn't already claimed by another backpacker or boating party. There's really only room here for one group. Lucky me!

It was great! At Flick Creek, I soaked it all in, enjoying a most excellent evening, relaxing amidst nature in my own private paradise, thinking, "THIS is what backpacking is all about!"

The next day I walked into Stehekin, the most isolated community in the contiguous United States, where everyone waves and says, "Hello!" I washed up and changed into a fresh shirt, making it to the cozy little restaurant just in time for breakfast (9:30 AM is when they stop serving). Here I enjoyed the most tasty omelet, sausage, fried potatoes and sliced apples that I think I've ever had... It was certainly a fine way to top off a wonderful hike.

Trip report posted with additional discussion at nwhikers.net.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/chelan_lakeshore_trail.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/06/chelan_lakeshore_trail.html hikes Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:11:58 -0800 Cirque du Soleil: Corteo MARYMOOR PARK, REDMOND, WA :: To celebrate Mother's Day, we invited our moms to see Corteo, a Cirque du Soleil show traveling the world and making a brief stop in Redmond's Marymoor Park. Altogether, ten members from the Brown and English clans gathered together to enjoy dinner and an evening of world-class, acrobatic theater. This was the fifth Cirque performance that Kristie and I have seen, but a first time experience for half of the group.

Corteo is different than the other Cirque shows. The performers actually speak English throughout and there is a clear storyline concerning the death of a clown. Amazing acrobatic performances and a few theatrical interludes reenacted the clown's life, until he finally ascends among angels to the bright white light at the top of the tent.

Of the shows we've seen, Mystere is still the best, followed by Alegria, Varekai, Delirium and Corteo. Mystere was so incredible, we'll likely see it again, along with La Nouba during our trip through the Caribbean later this year.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/05/corteo_redmond.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/05/corteo_redmond.html shows Sat, 10 May 2008 11:30:30 -0800 Palouse Falls PALOUSE FALLS STATE PARK, JOSO, WA :: Despite having once lived in the Palouse region for five years, I had never been to Palouse Falls. On my way to Hell's Canyon, I noticed signs for the park along SR261, a curvy and scenic road between the towns of Washtucna and Starbuck. I tagged the location on my TomTom, intending to finally check it out on my way back home.

Without the signs, most people would drive right on by, never suspecting such a unique and massive waterfall hiding just on the other side of the hills. From 261, a short dirt road leads to a parking lot, picnic area and a circuit of trails to various lookouts. I noticed additional trails along the canyon floor that might be fun to explore and spotted some hikers near the hoodoos above the waterfall's edge. I suspect there might be some interesting dayhike opportunities here if I ever return, but today I only pulled over for a quick pit stop.

The falls drop nearly 200 feet into a stepped wall canyon. It's a very impressive landscape to behold, definitely worth a detour and visit on your way through Eastern Washington.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/04/palouse_falls.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/04/palouse_falls.html hikes Sat, 12 Apr 2008 11:40:10 -0800 The Snake River Trail HELLS CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA, ID :: I drove across the state to backpack along Idaho's bank of the Snake River. The roadtrip was long, but enjoyable. I appreciate any opportunity to cruise through the beautiful, rolling landscape of the Palouse and the small, farm towns of Eastern Washington. After a night in Grangeville, I woke up to falling snow and carefully proceeded along icy roads to White Bird, the town nearest to the trailhead.

I intended to hike from Pittsburg Landing to Bernard Creek, which is 42 miles out and back. To cut down on some mileage, I arranged for a jet boat ride with Beamers to take me 15 miles upriver to Sheep Creek. The outfitter also serves as a US mail boat, delivering parcels once a week to ranches alongside the river. I met up with five other backpackers at Pittsburg Landing, who were friendly enough to invite me into their group, but their trip would be shorter in distance and longer in duration.

The jet boat roared through the canyon, hopping over white water rapids that will be enjoyed by rafters in late-Spring and Summer. We made a couple stops to deliver mail and I noted landmarks I would pass on the way back. It was raining and cold, so we were given paper towels to wipe the fog off the boat's windows. The ride was about an hour to Sheep Creek, where we said goodbyes and wished each other a safe and drier trip. I was heading further upriver, they were heading back down.

Hells Canyon is the deepest in North America. Deeper than the Grand Canyon. Although the walls of the canyon are more V-shaped, if the highest points are measured across the Snake, it is narrower and higher than at any point on the Colorado. I quickly gained a sense of this as the trail climbed and dropped considerably to negotiate the rugged hillsides, at times hugging along dynamite-blasted rock walls and at other times opening up to vast grasslands, high above the river. The variety was thrilling, and the sun battled with the rain all day, creating a moody atmosphere that contributed to the sense of the Wild. Fresh carcasses of deer and elk were seen, victims to cougars or wolves. We spotted a couple canine forms high along the hills on the boat ride, although they may have been coyotes.

I made my way to Bernard Creek, about six miles from Sheep Creek, where I originally intended to camp in a century-old cabin. But the shack was littered with the obvious occupation of rats and bats, so I decided to head back after taking shelter from the rain for a while and reading through the interesting articles and old Saturday Evening Post ads plastered on the walls. By the time I was done exploring the cabin, the sun had proven it's victory over the rain and I headed back towards Sheep Creek.

Just 600 yards upriver from Sheep Creek is Johnson Bar, perhaps the best campsite along the entire trail: a nice beach, easy access to the river, sandy tent sites, plenty of flat-topped rocks for benches and tables, a fire pit, and great canyon views. As the sun set behind snow-capped peaks on the Oregon side, I setup camp and got a good fire going using some dead branches that had washed up on shore. I had a chance to try out a couple new toys, including a light-weight solo tent, the MSR Hubba, and my Spot Messenger, a GPS and Globalstar communicator (endorsed by Survivor Man!) that can be used to broadcast my location in an emergency, but also lets me send an "I'm okay!" signal to Kristie to ease her mind. I sent her an OK message every morning, afternoon and night. It worked great, and her email notifications included a link to Google Maps to show my precise location. As expected, there is absolutely no cell phone reception in the canyon.

From Johnson Bar, it's 15 miles to the trailhead. I decided I could do it and reduce my three-day trip to just two. I woke up to a chilly morning, but the sky was clear and deep blue. It would be very sunny and about 75 degrees today. A welcome change.

I hadn't seen anyone most of the first day, except for the people on the mail boat and a couple other jet boats on the river. On the second day, I passed the mail boat group again and met about a dozen other people on my way back, mostly at Kirkwood Ranch, a popular day-hike and camping spot just six miles from the trailhead.

Unfortunately, this stretch of trail has many more ups and downs. My legs were pretty tired after climbing several hills leading to Suicide Point, a prominent outcropping of rock 400 feet above a horseshoe bend in the river. The steepest climb is right after Kirkwood Ranch, a relentless switchback that I cursed with every obscenity I know - I think I even created a few new ones. It probably didn't climb more than 500 feet, but after 27 miles with 35 pounds on my back, I was ready to just be done.

Several more climbs through much greener hills finally restored my good spirits and brought me back to my car. It was a unique and gorgeous hike, offering plenty of peaceful solitude this time of year. Spring or Fall are the best times to enjoy this area, when the temperatures are still mild. During the summer, Hells Canyon rightfully earns its name with 100+ degree days.

Trip report posted with additional discussion at nwhikers.net.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/04/the_snake_river.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/04/the_snake_river.html hikes Thu, 10 Apr 2008 11:32:08 -0800 Duelin' Ivoryz Saloon LONGHORN BARBECUE, AUBURN, WA :: We joined a bunch of friends at the Longhorn Barbecue last night to celebrate Shannon's birthday. This Longhorn features a large, well-stocked bar and a pair of baby grand pianos facing each other on a central stage. This was a first for Kristie and me. I've seen several dueling piano bars in Seattle and other cities, but I was never tempted to check them out. I guess I always imagined it being a somewhat uppish experience, reserved for musical intellectuals who arrive in tuxedos and top hats. I thought dueling pianos only appealed to people who have "Gone Chopin. Bach in a minuet." on their coffee mug or bumper sticker.

I have no idea why I had that impression. At Longhorn's Dueling Ivoryz Saloon, it couldn't be further from the truth!

We had a lot of fun singing along with a trio of very talented improv comedian/pianists. They basically take requests throughout the night. The more money you attach to your request, the greater your chances of hearing your song - often a much naughtier version of the song. At any time, you can pay more money to stop the song. Unfortunately, this happened to Shannon twice. Despite the prevalent honky tonk ambience of the place, the crowd did not receive her two country song requests too well, much preferring to sing along to the likes of Journey, Def Leppard, James Brown, or "She'll Be Coming Around the Mountain When She Comes." Shannon's first request initiated an escalating bidding war, that finally reached a counterbid of $131 to successfully shut down the song. Fortunately, she was able to outbid the protest of her second request, although I think the audience was being merciful - it was her birthday after all!

Happy Birthday, Shannon!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/03/duelin_ivoryz_s.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/03/duelin_ivoryz_s.html shows Sat, 15 Mar 2008 11:17:17 -0800 PLAY! BENAROYA HALL, SEATTLE, WA :: Master Chief rocked Benaroya Hall tonight! For my birthday, Kristie surprised me with tickets to PLAY!, a symphony performance of popular video game music that is touring orchestras around the world. The concert celebrated a wide range of gaming genres, from the classic 8-bit days of Super Mario Brothers and The Legend of Zelda, to more recent favorites such as World of Warcraft and Final Fantasy. Reminiscent scenes from the games were projected on large screens above the performers, producing cheers, laughs and a few tears from the audience.

No doubt, the Seattle area is a gaming mecca, with companies like Microsoft, Nintendo, Valve, Bungie, Square Enix, Sierra, ArenaNet, Humongous, Gas Powered Games, Wizards of the Coast, Cranium and Penny Arcade having a major presence here. The composers for Halo and Morrowind were in the audience, as well as many local game designers and developers. About half of the audience was wearing jeans and many were seen playing with a DS or PSP during the intermission.

We were not your typical symphony crowd, but we were just as passionate about the music and appreciative of the performance. Kudos to PLAY! for recognizing the often-overlooked creative talent of video game producers and allowing us to enjoy an aspect of their art in the venue it deserves. And many thanks again to my Kristie for a perfect birthday gift!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/01/play_video_game_symphony.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/01/play_video_game_symphony.html shows Thu, 24 Jan 2008 11:10:10 -0800 Skyline Lake ALPINE LAKES WILDERNESS AREA, WA :: Today we planned to meet Tatiana, Greg and Dana for a winter wonderland adventure near Stevens Pass. Unfortunately, we started a bit late in the day and had a few issues finding a parking space and the trailhead. The main parking areas were closed, so I proceeded to the Nordic Center where my truck got stuck in deep snow. I learned the hard way that four-wheel drive isn't worth a darn if your tires are nearly bald. A lot of help from some kind strangers and a tow from a bulldozer eventually freed us... I'll be getting a new set of wheels this weekend.

When we finally met and were ready to put on our snowshoes, it was only then that I found out that Tatiana and Greg had never snowshoed before! I had assumed they were seasoned veterans. Not that snowshoeing is technically difficult, but had I known they were newbies, I definitely would have chosen a much less severe trail.

The route up to Skyline Lake climbs steeply along a wide snowcat trail, gaining 1300' in 1.5 miles. The winds were whipping along the exposed switchbacks about halfway up, stinging our faces with powdery snow. But everyone was a good sport about the trudge, especially Dana, who kept step with me for much of the way. We took frequent breaks and found it hard to complain amidst the beautiful scenery. We saw many other snowshoers, skiers, snowboarders and dogs sharing the trail.

It was a great day to be out and we had a lot of fun, but we'll probably pick a flatter hike if we go snowshoeing again.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/01/skyline_lake_snowshoe.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2008/01/skyline_lake_snowshoe.html hikes Sun, 20 Jan 2008 11:38:40 -0800 Fireplace Renovation EDMONDS, WA :: I used part of my holiday vacation to finally update our fireplace, a year and a half after moving in. During that time, the edges of our new carpet and laminate flooring remained unfinished where they met with the original brown tile surrounding our bronze fireplace insert, circa 1979. In addition, an alcove adjacent to the fireplace was being underutilized.

I was a little nervous about this project, as I had never worked with fireplaces or tile before, and I didn't want to botch up such an important, central feature in our house. However, I knew most cosmetic home renovations do not require any technical expertise, just patience, planning and attention to detail. Anyone can do them. It turns out I learned everything I ever needed to know from watching years of "This Old House" and "Hometime" on PBS.

The insert doors and firebox were repainted with several coats of high-heat enamel. The existing wall tiles were chiseled out and I scored lines into the floor tiles with a RotoZip to give the mortar more texture to adhere to. We chose a natural stone, travertine, to replace the old porcelain tiles. Since architecture school, I've had a fondness for travertine. It has been used extensively in both ancient and modern architecture, including the Coliseum in Rome, and the Getty Center and the Salk Institute in Southern California.

I wanted the new shelves to be thick to match the mass of the surrounding structural elements and the large volume of the alcove. They are 2.5" x 4' x 2' (HWD) boxes constructed with sheets of birch plywood, faced with a strip of oak, painted with several coats of white and hung with concealed angle brackets to appear floating in the space.

I just barely met the goal of having the project completed by New Year's Eve, allowing us to return from dinner and snuggle up to a blazing fire in our nice, new fireplace for the first couple of hours of 2008.

Happy New Year!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/fireplace_renovation.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/fireplace_renovation.html projects Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:14:48 -0800 Christmas EDMONDS, WA :: For this holiday season, we decorated the house with a row of lights along the roof and hung a wreath above the garage. We think it looks nice and cheery, particularly within a landscape of freshly fallen snow. I took this photo during a storm that left four inches of fluffy powder on the ground. Unfortunately, it all melted away the next day.

You may have noticed that we removed the large pine tree from our front yard. I hate to cut down a tree, but this guy was a nuisance, clogging up the gutters every week and killing everything underneath. We'll be busy relandscaping the clean slate next Spring. I already received a few gardening books as helpful gifts.

We had a really great time with our families this Christmas. Amongst the festive decorations and abundant meals, we cozied up with the people and animals we love, reminiscing on joyful memories and looking forward to a bright future. We wish you and yours a warm and merry holiday, and hope for greater peace and happiness next year.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/christmas_3.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/christmas_3.html events Tue, 25 Dec 2007 11:35:40 -0800 2007 Photo Album EDMONDS, WA :: Another eventful year deserves another photo album! As with 2005 and 2006, 2007 will be remembered and shared with a photo book produced by MyPublisher. We had four copies printed this year. One to keep and the others to give to family. They make great gifts.

Our parents greatly appreciate and anticipate receiving these albums. I think it's funny that they have the most interest in our lives, but ironically, they have the least ability to use our website. Throughout the year, I often have to recreate the photos from the site into slideshows or prints to share with our tech-unsavvy parents.

We love our website as a chronicle of our lives, but we think our parents have a valid point as well. It's nice to have a tangible book we can flip through with our hands. I imagine it would be awkward and uncomfortable to reminisce with a laptop computer while curling up together on the sofa.

Once again, we're pleased with the quality and quick turn-around time of MyPublisher. This year, they upgraded the leather cover option with padding and stitching. The books I created are 100 pages and contain 670 photos each. These would normally cost $140 a book, but a 20% Costco discount (download the software from the Costco website) and a two-for-one coupon code (that can be found on various websites) makes them much more affordable.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/2007_mypublisher_photo_album.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/2007_mypublisher_photo_album.html projects Wed, 19 Dec 2007 11:10:10 -0800 Narae 2007 Korean Festival MEANY HALL, SEATTLE, WA :: We'd like to thank Hye Ran and Rob for inviting us to this concert. When they first told us about it, Kristie and I were not sure what to expect. I really thought we were just going to see a couple of Hye Ran's nieces and other kids dancing and singing a few songs in cute Korean outfits. We were anticipating an audience of perhaps a hundred people and didn't think the show would be longer than 45 minutes. Upon arriving at Meany Hall, we were surprised to receive a 20 page program and to see most of the seats taken.

The Morning Star Korean Cultural Center puts on the show, which is run by Hye Ran's very accomplished and talented aunt, Jiyeon Cheh. In addition to the annual performance at Meany Hall, they have performed throughout the United States, Europe and Korea, and locally in schools and fairs, including the Winter Olympics in Utah and in Qwest Field during a Seahawk's halftime show.

While we did see a few of Hye Ran's nieces dancing in cute Korean outfits, we were entertained by much, much more. There were 13 performances, including a variety of drums, zithers, flutes and cymbals. I even recognized a catchy Korean folk anthem that my mom used to play and I haven't been able to get the tune out of my head since the concert. It was an impressive and beautiful show - very colorful and cheery. I hope Hye Ran will remind us again next year!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/narae_2007_korean_art_festival.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/narae_2007_korean_art_festival.html shows Sun, 09 Dec 2007 11:29:47 -0800 Goat Lake & Elliot Creek HENRY M. JACKSON WILDERNESS, WA :: I have been waiting to return to Goat Lake for a long time. Although it had been more than six years since I first hiked this trail, the picturesque image of snow-laden Cadet Peak reflecting off Goat Lake has never faded from my mind. The Mountain Loop Scenic Highway was closed in 2003 just North of Barlow Pass. A major rock slide shifted a section of the road into the Stillaguamish River, blocking access to the trailhead. Four years and $10 million later, the road has been rebuilt and reopened.

Ice and snow covered much of the road beyond Barlow Pass, and it was 26 degrees at the trailhead at 8:30 AM. I started my hike shivering and bundled under several layers, hats and gloves, but after about twenty minutes, I was comfortable in just a t-shirt. The trail had a light dusting of fresh snow, and it was easy going for most of the way. I started on the Upper Trail and took the connection to the Lower Trail at the 0.8 mile mark. There were just a couple blowdowns which were easy to get around. The trail was in surprisingly remarkable shape, despite being mostly unbothered for four years and the recent storms.

The trail became hard to follow just before the lake. As I did on my first hike six years ago, I got lost and needed to scramble alongside the falls to find the lake. On my way back, I found where I took a wrong turn. But if I had stayed on the trail, I would have missed an impressive set of waterfalls. There are several US Forest Service signs marking some type of boundary in this area, but they were turned in every direction and really unclear about indicating the area I was not supposed to be in.

Goat Lake was completely glazed over when I finally reached it. I had just caught the last beams of sunlight disappearing behind Cadet Peak. My memory of a rippling lake bathed in warm, golden light would need to persist for at least another few seasons. I'll add to my memory the contrasting, yet still beautiful, scene I saw today: a glittering, snowy plain, weakly lit by impending winter's cold, blue light.

It's about 10 miles to Goat Lake and back. The trail gains about 1300 feet, mostly at the switchbacks (or scramble) right before the lake.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/goat_lake_elliot_creek.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/12/goat_lake_elliot_creek.html hikes Sat, 08 Dec 2007 11:11:50 -0800 Chapel of Thanksgiving DALLAS, TX :: Our last stop in Dallas was a visit to Thanks-Giving Square, a multifaith center for giving thanks. Philip Johnson designed the small park and chapel, which features a unique and beautiful stained glass ceiling. It's a nice reminder and celebration of gratitude, but the Foundation's emphasis is clearly on giving thanks to a divine power. Kristie and I are grateful for many things, but we choose to acknowledge and thank people for their kindness, respecting their help and our own efforts that make life purposeful and enjoyable, not anything supernatural.

At that moment, we were most thankful to be returning home! Dallas wasn't as bad as we thought it would be, but I doubt we'll ever have the desire to return.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/chapel_of_thanksgiving.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/chapel_of_thanksgiving.html travel Sun, 04 Nov 2007 12:39:28 -0800 Dallas Arboretum DALLAS, TX :: Yes, there is greenery in Dallas! Just a few miles from downtown is White Rock Lake, Dallas's own version of Seattle's beloved Green Lake park, complete with athletic fields, playgrounds, fishing docks, a performing arts theater and a paved trail packed with runners and rollerbladers. However, as with most things in Texas, White Rock Lake is much larger than Green Lake. The trail around the lake is 9.5 miles.

White Rock Lake also hosts the very lovely Dallas Arboretum. We spent a couple hours there, enjoying the well-maintained grounds and colorful plants. It really was a nice park and probably the highlight of our trip.

In one section, much to Kristie's delight, Dove® was presenting "The Amazing Chocolate Tree," featuring interactive stations that described the cultivation, harvest and manufacturing process of chocolate. Free Dove bars and ice cream were provided, and the entire area smelled like chocolate, due to the generous amount of roasted cocoa bean hulls that were used as mulch in many of the areas. I wonder if anyone sells that stuff around here?
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/dallas_arboretum.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/dallas_arboretum.html travel Sun, 04 Nov 2007 11:26:25 -0800 Fort Worth Stockyards FORT WORTH, TX :: Fort Worth was once a major railroad town and shipping point for millions of livestock. The Stockyards district preserves this history and celebrates the spirit of the American West. Cobblestone streets, wooden sidewalks, rickity old saloons, and costumed cowboy characters are elements contributing to the theme. There's even a cattle drive that runs up the main street twice a day. Heck, you'll also find a rodeo and the world's largest honky tonk, Billy Bob's Texas.

In case you didn't know, a "honky tonk" was a cheap, noisy bar, dance hall and/or theater - a place where a cowboy could afford a drink, enjoy some entertainment, and participate in some general rowdiness. Today, I think it generally refers to any club that plays country music.

I stayed a while in the Stockyards to watch the herd, browse through the gift shops, and take some photos. Afterwards, I stopped by a few other attractions in Fort Worth, including the Water Gardens, the Marty Leonard Chapel and the Modern Art Museum.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/fort_worth_stockyards.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/fort_worth_stockyards.html travel Sat, 03 Nov 2007 11:43:50 -0800 Fogo de Chão DALLAS, TX :: If you like to dine out, Dallas has got you covered. The city boasts the highest number of restaurants per capita in the nation. As we searched for places to eat dinner, it seemed nearly half of the options were steakhouses, which certainly drew no complaints from me.

I had read a lot of good reviews for Fogo de Chão, a Brazilian steakhouse (or churrascaria), where fire-roasted meat is skewered onto swords and served at your table. In addition, a 40-item premium salad bar awaited Kristie. It looked like fun, so we decided to treat ourselves - as you can imagine, all-you-can eat steak is not cheap.

We arrived early and were the first couple seated for dinner. Both of our chairs were pulled out for us, and we were immediately impressed with the amazing service. The maitre d' stopped by our table and provided a history of the restaurant and the gaúcho style of eating. He pointed out that nearly everyone in the kitchen and on the waitstaff were from Brazil. They dressed in billowy pants, tall boots, and wide belts, with a red bandana around their neck, tucked into their light blue shirts. Every time we left our table, our napkins were refolded, our table cleaned, and our plates replaced.

The salad bar was impressive, but much of it was fancy, fatty or meaty stuff that Kristie doesn't care for: prosciuttos, salamis, olives and fine cheeses. I took a look at the salad bar, but I did not touch. I was saving my appetite for the meat and wine. When the maitre d' noticed Kristie had just veggies on her plates, without asking, he suprised her with a serving of vegetable fried rice and grilled peppers from the kitchen.

Also on our table was an endless supply of yummy fried bananas, cheese bread, crispy fried polenta, mashed potatoes and a compote or chutney as a topping for the meat, which I'll speak of now.

Every diner has a disc, green on one side to signal, "Hey, bring me some meat!" and red on the other side to say, "Whoa, give me a chance to loosen my belt!" The team of gaúchos immediately responded to the green, coming one after another, cycling through 15 different cuts of meat. I wasn't able to taste each option, but I found a few mouth-watering, delectable favorites, including the top sirloin, rib eye, picanha, bacon-wrapped filet and leg of lamb. They also had sausages, chicken, beef ribs, pork ribs, and on and on, my-oh-my. Each bite was so delicious. Chewing softly and slowly, I savored each and every perfectly prepared and seasoned morsel.

Throughout my business travels, I've had the opportunity to eat at many fine restaurants. Our dinner at Fogo de Chão was a cut above the best of these. The service was unbelievable - they truly made us feel like visiting royalty - and the food was the best tasting I've ever had. It's a good thing "Fogo" is not yet in Seattle, otherwise the temptation to eat there every night might be too great to resist!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/fogo_de_chao_review.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/fogo_de_chao_review.html travel Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:26:06 -0800 Dallas DALLAS, TX :: Dallas is a vastly sprawled, desolate and dirty city. It's not the kind of place you would want to spend a vacation, although that's exactly what I did. Kristie was attending a week-long conference, and I tagged along to support her. The Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex hosts the highest concentration of corporate headquarters in the United States, but not much else. Because of this, I was able to visit a couple clients and do some work to fill my time.

Dallas isn't completely void of attractions. We did find a few places and activities to keep us entertained. There are no geological features or interesting landscapes nearby to hike, but the city has a few museums worth exploring. I visited the Sixth Floor Museum and saw artifacts from the JFK assassination. I later stood atop the grassy knoll and then walked over to the exact spot where Kennedy was shot, designated with a simple white X in the middle of the road. The Dallas Museum of Art and the Nasher Sculpture Center are also worth visiting.

We had not been through a haunted house in decades, so on Halloween, Kristie and I went to the Scaregrounds, an old warehouse converted into an assembly of four haunted houses, each with a different theme. It was expensive and mostly lame, so it will probably be a couple more decades before we visit one again.

The next evening we went to Speedzone, a go-kart center for adults. They had four different racetracks with various styles of karts, including dragsters that did 0-70 mph in 3.5 seconds! The Slick Track was the most fun, even though I wasn't very good at it. It's a polished raceway with karts that have smooth tires - a drifter's dream! I watched Kristie lap me several times as I spun out again and again. A couple NASCAR drivers and their crew were racing amongst us, in town for the Dickies 500 that weekend. That entire night was a lot of fun. They really need one of these in the Seattle area.

We visited several other sites, including the Fort Worth Stockyards, the Thanksgiving Chapel, the Dallas Arboretum, and the *best* dining experience ever, Fogo de Chão. I'll be posting photos and entries for these soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/dallas_texas.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/11/dallas_texas.html travel Thu, 01 Nov 2007 11:00:02 -0800 Kristie's Birthday STIX BILLIARDS & BREWERY, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie celebrated her birthday with family and friends at Stix, a new pool hall on the south shore of Lake Union. We booked the private room and had access to our own patio overlooking the lake, along with a premium pool table, comfy leather seats, and an XBOX 360 - a little something for everyone. It was nice, and we had a lot of fun. Thanks to everyone who joined us!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/10/kristies_birthday.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/10/kristies_birthday.html events Sat, 13 Oct 2007 11:57:55 -0800 San Jose Taiko EDMONDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS, EDMONDS, WA :: Kristie and I invited my parents to see San Jose Taiko perform in downtown Edmonds to celebrate my dad's birthday. The show began with a single, large drum that was carefully rolled onto the center of the dark stage. A spotlight beamed onto the drummer and the audience was completely silent. The drummer then suddenly struck the drum once. The surprisingly loud boom frightened my poor, little mother to death, causing her to loudly exclaim, "Gamjigiya!" which I believe is Korean for, "OMG!" After she settled down, we all enjoyed the concert.

If the photos seem familiar, it's because you may have seen the entry earlier this year for TAIKOPROJECT. I brought my SLR with me this time and was able to get some better shots.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/san_jose_taiko.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/san_jose_taiko.html shows Sat, 29 Sep 2007 11:56:30 -0800 Sunset on Haleakala MAUI VACATION DAY 5 :: HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK, HI :: Our vacation in Maui has finally reached its end. The last item on our itinerary was a dazzling sunset from the top of Haleakala, which means "House of the Sun" in Hawaiian. Most visitors to the volcano will wake up early to see the sunrise. The sunset is just as spectacular and far less crowded.

It's perhaps a little warmer as well, although we were still shivering, despite extra clothes and a blanket we borrowed from the hotel. At 10,023 feet, the atmosphere is only half of what we normally experience at sea level and the temperature about 30 degrees cooler. It was probably about 55 degrees at the summit, but a combination of wind chill and wator vapor from the passing clouds made it feel like it was freezing.

Occasionally, the clouds parted and we could see most of the areas of the island we explored and enjoyed over the past five days. Mostly, the clouds were a thick blanket below and around us. This made the skies more dramatic at times, and completely obscured and cold at others. The winds were blowing fast, so we only needed to wait a few minutes for a new view.

We had a great time on Maui! It would have been perfect if we were more careful with our time in the sun. As it was, however, we were aching from sunburns and eager to get back to our Northwest home and climate.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/sunset_on_haleakala.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/sunset_on_haleakala.html travel Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:17:00 -0800 Haleakala MAUI VACATION DAY 5 :: HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK, HI :: Haleakala is the world's largest dormant volcano, with a summit 10,023 feet above sea level, and an additional 30,000 feet extending beneath to the ocean floor. Although it dominates East Maui Island, the visible part of the mountain represents only 3% of it's total volume. Maui is the youngest of the Hawaiian islands, and Haleakala could erupt at anytime again to add to it's size. Lava last flowed to the sea from Haleakala in 1790.

It only took us about 90 minutes to drive from Kihului Airport at sea level to the summit. We passed through seven micro climates as we ascended along the many curves. The road felt much safer than the Road to Hana - it was recently paved and there were only a few one-lane bridges to cross. At around 7000 feet, we entered the clouds. I was hoping we would be on top of them by the time we reached the top...

We just barely made it through the clouds at the summit, where the sky was mostly clear. From the lookout, there was an amazing view into Haleakala's massive crater, formed by a combination of erosion and volcanic activity. The steep walls drop nearly 3000 feet to the crater floor, covering an area equal to the entire island of Manhattan - approximately 25 square miles. Within the bowl, clouds were churning in swirls and circles. Beyond, we could see glimpses of the surrounding island and ocean between the breaks in the cloud deck.

We had driven up here to see the sunset, but we arrived early and I realized I might have enough time for a quick hike. The crater floor contains massive cinder cones, and I really wanted to walk along the rim of one. The closest cone, named Ka Lu'u o ka O'o, was only 2.5 miles away via the Sliding Sands Trail. I had just under three hours until sunset, so with a bottle of water and some extra clothes, off I went. It felt chilly, probably about 50 degrees, and the wind was whipping around pretty fierce. Kristie, with her aching, sunburned legs, unfortunately couldn't walk very far. She stayed warm in the visitor center and in the car, where she enjoyed a quick nap.

I hiked through alternating periods of sunshine and thick cloud cover. I saw several rare Silverswords along the way, and some strange birds, but there was little else to see in the desolate landscape - it was an otherworldly and awesome experience. However, at one point it began to rain and my hopes of seeing the crater floor were dashed, but just as I arrived at the rim of the cinder cone, the clouds started to part and glorious sunshine lit up the entire crater. I think I might have wept a few tears... It was really quite a sight.

I snapped a couple hundred photos and then hurried back up 1400 feet (slipping through the pumice and sand), just in time for the sunset show to begin (photos coming soon!).
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/haleakala_hike.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/haleakala_hike.html hikes Mon, 10 Sep 2007 12:19:52 -0800 Big Beach & Little Beach MAUI VACATION DAY 5 :: WAILEA-MAKENA, HI :: On our last full day in Maui, we headed south and visited several beaches before heading up to Haleakala. Each of the beaches were very nice, but pretty much the same. However, one beach, or rather, a pair of beaches stood out: Big Beach (officially known as Makena Beach) and Little Beach. If we had one more day, I would have enjoyed spending some more time here with a boogie board, a lounger and a cooler full of beer.

It's easy to see how Big Beach got its nickname. It's both wide and long, and very scenic. The sand was soft and the waves were some of the largest we had seen on the island. Adjacent to Big Beach is Little Beach. We had to climb over a small hill to reach it. We had read Little Beach is "clothing optional." Sure enough, several dozen people were in the buff enjoying the nice weather. I'm sure Kristie and I would have joined them... if only we weren't sunburned...

I tried to keep the photos family-friendly. Most of the dangly and pointy parts from Little Beach have been digitally obscured.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/big_beach_makena_little_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/big_beach_makena_little_beach.html travel Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:08:52 -0800 Waimoku Falls MAUI VACATION DAY 4 :: HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK, HI :: Our final destination of the day was Waimoku Falls via the Pipiwai Trail in Haleakala National Park. The trailhead is at the ranger station near The Seven Sacred Pools, just a few miles beyond the town of Hana.

The trail began in alternating grassy and forested areas filled with large banyan and fruit trees. Guavas covered the ground in some parts, their bright pink centers smashed and smeared across the trail. Their strong scent made the air sickeningly sweet. Fortunately, the guava trees made way for a bamboo forest about a mile into the hike.

For us, the bamboo was the highlight of this trail. The path narrowed and meandered through the bamboo's tall, narrow stalks that often blocked most of the light. In the wind, the bamboo clacked together. Most of the time, their hollow, haunting sound resonated at a peaceful, Zen-like rhythm. Occasionally, a strong wind would blow and the forest became a loud cacophony of creaking and clacking. It was a very cool and unique experience, but kinda creepy at the same time.

The trail through the enchanting bamboo goes on for about a mile to Waimoku Falls. The water drops 400 feet, straight down a concave wall. The fall was pretty, but I think it would have been more impressive if there was more water flowing. We only spent a few minutes here before heading back to the car and then driving all the way back to Kaanapali.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/waimoku_falls.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/waimoku_falls.html hikes Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:30:14 -0800 Honokalani Black Sand Beach MAUI VACATION DAY 4 :: WAIANAPANAPA STATE PARK, HANA, HI :: When we were planning our trip, we didn't think we would drive to Hana, as Kristie has a low tolerance for roadtrips, especially roadtrips that contain curvy roads. The famous Road to Hana is perhaps the curviest in the world, with approximately 600 twists and turns along 52 miles of narrow, mostly one-lane road that crosses 52 bridges and is often right on the edge of shear cliffs dropping several stories into the ocean.

We really wanted to see the black sand beaches and the bamboo forest near Hana, so we thought we'd give it a try. The three hour drive was actually fun and very scenic. The entire way is green and wet. We saw a wide variety of plants and many waterfalls, and also passed by several small towns and charming vendor shacks along the way.

The photos do not do it any justice, but Honokalani Beach is probably one of the most strikingly beautiful I've ever seen - vibrant green vegetation, deep blue sky and turquoise water crashing in white foam against black sand - it was pretty cool. The pumicey sand is coarse and the water is filled with poisonous jellyfish, so I wouldn't want to swim here, but I could look at this beach all day. We also found some neat caves adjacent to the beach and a blowhole. This stop might have been worth the drive alone, but we had one more destination: Waimoku Falls.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/honokalani_black_sand_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/honokalani_black_sand_beach.html travel Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:42:08 -0800 Iao Needle MAUI VACATION DAY 4 :: IAO VALLEY STATE PARK, WAILUKU, HI :: By day four, our burnt skin needed a break from the sun. Fortunately, the remainder of our planned activities on Maui would take place in cloudier areas. It's amazing that Kāʻanapali and the west coast of the island annually receive less than 20 inches of rain, yet just five miles inland, more than 400 inches fall on the mountains.

On our way to Hana, we took a detour into the Iao Valley, the second wettest location on the island. There we gazed upon the ‘Īao Needle, a natural landmark with spiritual and historical significance. A major battle between Hawaiian kings to unite the islands occurred here in the 15th century. It's said the river in the valley ran red with blood.

We took a short walk across a bridge to the lookout, alongside the river and through a garden. Perhaps it was the wrong time of the year, but most of the plants in the garden seemed pretty dead... Only a couple decent photos at this quick stop.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/iao_needle.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/iao_needle.html travel Sun, 09 Sep 2007 11:38:53 -0800 Drums of the Pacific Luau MAUI VACATION DAY 3 :: KAANAPALI, HI :: You gotta do a luau when you're in Hawaii, right? There are several to choose from on Maui, but I had read Drums of the Pacific at the Hyatt was the most exciting. To get there, we walked a half mile along Kāʻanapali Beach, getting a glance at the various resorts, cabanas and poolside bars along the way. It would have been a very nice walk, but Kristie's poor calves were starting to hurt from being burned pretty badly during the day's snorkeling. We stopped at the beach-side showers to cool them off.

Fortunately, we had made reservations a couple months ago and paid a little extra for VIP seating. I highly recommend it. We were quickly seated in front of the stage and sipped on several Mai Tais and Piña Coladas from the open bar as others waited for a long time in a line in the hot sun to get in. Kristie ordered a steady stream of ice water to cool off her calves.

The service and food was great - VIP was first to get their share (and then seconds). The show was very entertaining and romantic as well, expectedly several notches above what we've seen put on by Polynesian clubs at local high schools and universities. We enjoyed our walk back, and Kristie's calves felt better in the cooler, night air (77 degrees, as opposed to 87). The stars were bright over the ocean, framed by silhouettes of palm trees. The air smelled like coconuts. All was good in paradise.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/drums_of_the_pacific_luau.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/drums_of_the_pacific_luau.html shows Sat, 08 Sep 2007 13:11:24 -0800 Sea Turtles at Black Rock MAUI VACATION DAY 3 :: KAANAPALI, HI :: Our day of snorkeling ended at Black Rock (Pu'u Keka'a), one of only three ancient sites where Hawaiian's believed their spirits departed the world. Mighty kings dove into the ocean and returned to prove their favor with the gods. Every night, a torchlit cliff diving ceremony honors the history of Black Rock.

It's also the best place to snorkel on Maui and is only a couple hundred yards from The Whaler. Black Rock divides the beach and creates a coral wall where lots of fish and a few turtles hang out. The water is clear, no rocks to stub a toe, and there was plenty of sunshine - the weather always seemed to be the best in Kaanapali.

Sea turtles (honu) are much revered by Hawaiians, and they were the highlight of our snorkeling trips. We saw two females and one monstrous male which must have weighed at least 300 pounds. The locals nicknamed him "Volkswagen." The turtles were busy munching away at seaweed and didn't seem to mind our presence. We tried to maintain a certain distance, although they swam right towards us a few times. I had to leapfrog over one to avoid it.

Unfortunately, the poor sea turtles throughout the Hawaiian islands are suffering from a disfiguring disease which is threatening the already endangered population. We could see signs of it on the big guy. We hope the turtle scientists find a cure soon!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/black_rock_sea_turtles.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/black_rock_sea_turtles.html travel Sat, 08 Sep 2007 12:37:50 -0800 Honolua & Napili Bay MAUI VACATION DAY 3 :: KAPALUA, HI :: The first half of today was dedicated to snorkeling. We went up north to Honolua Bay, moved south to Napili Bay, and then headed back towards our hotel in Kaanapali, saving the best for last: Black Rock.

The main parking lot to Honolua Bay was filled, so we parked about a quarter of a mile up the road. A cool trail took us on a shortcut to the beach, through a tropical forest where wild roosters were calling from the treetops and juicy guavas littered the ground. The trees in Hawaii are the most amazing I've seen, with impressive networks of branches that extend laterally at seemingly impossible lengths.

Emerging at the beach, we swam around the lava rock formations of Honolua Bay for about an hour, and then enjoyed another hour exploring the reefs at Napili Bay. We saw all kinds of fish, coral, urchins and other fascinating things. The skies were overcast at the time, and the surf was a bit choppy, making the water dark and cloudy. The camera struggled to focus and rarely had enough light to capture the ever-moving fish... Perhaps it's best that you don't click on the photos below to expand them - they look better when they're smaller!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/honolua_napili_bay_snorkel.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/honolua_napili_bay_snorkel.html travel Sat, 08 Sep 2007 11:51:42 -0800 Lanai Dolphin Watch MAUI VACATION DAY 2 :: LANAI ISLAND, HI :: During our Trilogy trip, we hopped onboard a high speed raft to look for dolphins along Lānaʻi's kona (southern) coast. The Blue Water Adventure Rafting tour took us on an hour-long, waterborne thrill ride. The high speed raft weaved between rocks, banked steeply on turns and jumped over the waves. It was a lot of fun! I was at the front of the raft, one hand holding onto a brace and the other hopelessly trying to steady the camera as I got tossed around.

We saw a pair of stingrays "wrestling" with each other - that was the term the captain used to keep the trip rated PG. We also saw a lot of spinner dolphins. Perhaps nearly fifty of them, jumping in and out of the water, racing the raft and surfing the wake. Several times they came within arms reach and Kristie would reach out to try to hug them (she loves dolphins). The water was so clear you could see them dive and cross under the raft among schools of brightly colored fish.

Scattered about the dolphin pod were a few baby dolphins. Amongst the graceful, long arches of the adult dolphins that were taking a breath, we'd occassionally spot a tiny little arch and fin jumping out of the water. I believe you can see a few of the babies in the top photo. The dolphins made Kristie's day... The baby dolphins made her week!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/lanai_dolphin_watch.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/lanai_dolphin_watch.html travel Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:20:32 -0800 Trilogy Sail to Lanai MAUI VACATION DAY 2 :: LANAI ISLAND, HI :: Taking advantage of the three hour jet lag, we scheduled an early, sunrise sail with Trilogy Excursions from Lahaina Harbor to Lānaʻi Island (where Bill Gates was married). We generally avoid tours like this, but nearly every guide book and online review said Trilogy was the best. For the most part, we have to agree. Captain Mike and his crew were very friendly, helpful and entertaining through the entire trip, which included snorkeling in Hulopoe Bay and a side trip along the coast on a high-speed raft to view dozens of dolphins.

There was hardly any wind today, so for most of the trip we used the motor to make our way across the channel. We were quickly greeted by a bottlenose dolphin - only a hundred exist around Maui, so it was a nice treat, especially for Kristie. Most of the dolphins around Maui are spinner dolphins, which are slightly smaller, but just as playful. For breakfast, we were served Kaanapali coffee, gooey cinnamon roles and fruit.

Near Lanai Harbor, we were told the legend of Pu'u Pehe, or Sweetheart Rock. At the harbor, we were bussed a short distance to Hulopoe Bay, where I went snorkeling for the very first time. Trilogy provides all of the gear you would need, but we brought our own, including my prescription mask made in an Edmonds dive shop and our Elph camera in a waterproof case. I'm not a very good swimmer, so it took me a few minutes to get used to the sensation of breathing with the snorkel underwater. With Kristie's help and a flotation belt, I soon felt very comfortable. It was actually a lot of fun - perhaps a little too fun, as we would soon discover with our painful sunburns.

Hulopoe Bay is very pretty, but it is probably not the best area for snorkeling. The water is fairly clear, but we saw many more fish along Maui's beaches. After snorkeling for an hour, we headed back to the harbor for our high-speed rafting trip (photos), which was probably the highlight of the day. On our return, we swam around the bay and relaxed on the beach before a decent BBQ lunch. I thought it was interesting that they spiked the stir-fry noodles with a heavy dose of ginger to help with seasickness.

The ginger wasn't needed for the "sail" back, because the winds and waters were still very calm. As we motored through the ʻAuʻau Channel between Maui and Lanai, we were told the water is among the purest in the world, rivaling the water around Iceland. The blueness was unbelievable and the visibility is more than 250' feet! During the winter, humpback whales concentrate in this area, and the wide underwater shots for the Pacific Life commercials are filmed here. The boat stopped to allow people to dive in. I stayed onboard while Kristie, a champion high school swimmer, was the first to jump in. When she surfaced, she squinted her eyes and remarked, "It's salty!" which generated a smart remark from the captain and laughs from the deck.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/trilogy_lanai_sail.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/trilogy_lanai_sail.html travel Fri, 07 Sep 2007 11:57:34 -0800 The Whaler on Kaanapali MAUI VACATION DAY 1 :: KAANAPALI, HI :: Kristie and I have been looking forward to this much deserved vacation - six incredible days on Maui to forget about work, relax, and play! The highlights of the trip included: sailing on a catamaran to Lānaʻi, chasing manta rays and baby dolphins, snorkeling with sea turtles, swimming in the purest seawater in the world, enjoying a sunset luau, braving the twisting and lush road to Hana, stepping barefoot on black sand beaches, hiking through a bamboo forest, spying on a nude beach, walking amongst the cinder cones of a volcano, and watching the most amazing sunset from the summit of Haleakala, ten thousand feet above the surrounding ocean.

Many thanks to Kristie's mom, who offered us a room at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach. The location couldn't have been better. Kaanapali is the best beach in all of Maui, lined with a walkway that weaves between the sand and the resorts. From our room we could walk to the adjacent Whalers Village, where we could shop, eat and rent our snorkeling gear. Just a short walk up the beach is Black Rock, which is the best snorkeling spot on the island. Our room in The Whaler was great, with floor to ceiling windows, a full kitchen, a large lanai to watch the ocean sunset, complimentary internet access and powerful air conditioning - it was sunny and 87 every single day. Thank you, Mom!

I will be posting many more photos from our vacation soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/kaanapali_whaler_maui.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/09/kaanapali_whaler_maui.html travel Thu, 06 Sep 2007 11:46:42 -0800 Point of Arches OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: Kristie and I enjoyed a weekend backpacking with our friends to Shi Shi Beach and Point of Arches. Getting there requires a long, winding drive to Neah Bay, some effort to haul camping gear over 4.5 miles, and a slog through a messy maze of mud. Most would agree it's all well worth it.

Shi Shi Beach is a scenic stretch of cool, grey sand, bordered by lush, green forest to the east and the seemingly infinite ocean to the west, where the constant rhythm of frothy waves crashing against picturesque sea stacks is accompanied by crying seagulls and chattering eagles. We journey to Point of Arches to be reminded of the majestic beauty of nature; to allow our eyes to relax on distant vistas; to breathe the fresh, salty air; to enjoy the good company of life-long friends; ... and to build towering bonfires on the beach!

Also check out Jayson's website and Jacob's website for more great photos.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/point_of_arches_shi_shi_backpack.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/point_of_arches_shi_shi_backpack.html hikes Sun, 26 Aug 2007 11:40:35 -0800 Washington Business Week WESTERN WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY, BELLINGHAM, WA :: Kristie says, "I spent a week up in Bellingham on the Western Washington University campus as a Washington Business Week Camp Company Advisor with 300 high school students and 28 other Advisors. Each Advisor is assigned a group of 10 students, which make up a company. Throughout the week, these 29 companies compete with each other through a computer business simulation, stockholder presentations, and a trade show that highlights both their product and the performance of the company and its management. Not only do the students learn valuable business and leadership skills, but they have the opportunity to meet new friends and business connections."

"Business leaders in the community spoke on topics such as entrepreneurship, individual fiscal responsibility & identity theft, ethics and corporate crime, leadership, and marketing & advertising. Students loved hearing the innovative and non-traditional ideas expressed by Peter Van Stolk, Owner of Jones Soda. Mike Egan of the Microsoft Corporation was a favorite of many students. Any time students get to act on stage and be involved in the speaker’s presentation, particularly when the topic is busting criminals, students are bound to get excited. So it was no surprise that the presentation by Ryan Thompson, Special Agent IRS-CID, had captured their attention."

"After completing my fifth year of Business Week, I'm looking forward to working with students again next summer in the Advanced Business Week program."
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/washington_busi.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/washington_busi.html events Sun, 05 Aug 2007 11:30:48 -0800 Blue Angels GENESEE PARK, SEATTLE, WA :: You gotta love the Blue Angels! I know some people don't for various reasons, but even those who protest these magnificent machines of death must respect the amazing skill of the pilots and the incredible engineering of the jets. The best part of the show was the sonic boom and the resulting vapor cone flashes from the tail of the F/A-18, just feet above the lake. Shock and awe, baby!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/blue_angels.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/08/blue_angels.html shows Sat, 04 Aug 2007 11:45:13 -0800 Daft Punk WAMU THEATER, SEATTLE, WA :: Last night, Daft Punk completely blew my mind.

We arrived just in time to find a pair of seats centered about six rows back on the mezzanine. It was a great vantage point to take in the entire show, and we avoided wrestling with the crowd on the floor. Almost as soon as we sat down, the lights went out and everyone stood up. We then heard the famous five note melody from "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." So appropriate, and so awesome!

For the next 90 minutes, I was transported into a techno nirvana. From their pyramid spaceship, the robotic duo that is Daft Punk progressively intensified their beats, layering remixes of their songs seamlessly into the next. The sound was incredible and the futuristic light show was absolutely unreal, hypnotizing me and the crowd into a bouncing frenzy. I felt a rare, substance-free euphoria as the bass pulsed through my body and the flashing lights danced through my eyes. It's hard to describe the sensation, but I imagine it being like a firsthand experience of that trippy scene at the end of "2001: A Space Odyssey."

"My god... It's full of stars!"

Truly an amazing, unforgettable, transcendent show. My only complaint: it was too damn short!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/daft_punk.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/daft_punk.html shows Sun, 29 Jul 2007 11:04:33 -0800 Vancouver, B.C. VANCOUVER, B.C.:: This weekend we visited Vancouver for a relaxing, fun and romantic getaway. My company was sending me to Sydney for a week, so we wanted to make the most of our time together before I left. Despite the rain, beautiful Vancouver did not disappoint.

We knew it was going to be a great weekend when we checked into the Hyatt Regency and received an upgrade to a luxurious penthouse suite on the 34th floor. We were overwhelmed by the amenities: two living areas, two flat panel TVs, a kitchen with a fully stocked bar, self-grind coffee beans, two washrooms, an enourmous tub, a ceiling mounted shower, bathrobes, slippers, floor to ceiling windows with views of Coal Harbor, marble floors, granite countertops, see-through fireplace, dimmable lighting, complimentary turndown service, and a desk with computer and Aeron chair. It was nice!

It was hard to leave the suite, but we managed to tear ourselves away to enjoy Yaletown's street party, shopping and dining on Robson street, a funny TheatreSports show on Granville Island, and a 3D safari at the IMAX in Canada Place. We love Vancouver and had a great time!

Then it was off to Sydney for me! No, not Australia... Nova Scotia.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/vancouver_bc.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/vancouver_bc.html travel Sat, 21 Jul 2007 11:29:54 -0800 Plains of Abraham MT. ST. HELENS NATIONAL VOLCANIC MONUMENT, WA :: If you don't mind winding, bumpy roads that border along steep cliffs, the drive to this trailhead on FR 99 is as enjoyable as the hike. I had to pass many drivers who seemed torn between gawking at the surreal, blasted surroundings and keeping their eyes on the dangerous road. There are many viewpoints along the way. Continue to the last one, Windy Ridge, where the trail begins at an unmarked gate on the south side of the parking lot.

I last visited Mt. St. Helens to summit the crater rim with my friends. Today, I wanted to experience the blast zone up close via a quick loop hike. My route started on the Truman Trail and continued two miles to the Abraham Trail. On the Abraham Trail, I hiked two more miles along a narrow ridge to reach the plain and the junction with the Loowit Trail. The Loowit Trail marches straight toward the volcano and then meets up with the Windy Trail, which descends into the lahar before connecting again with the Truman Trail.

Although it's been 27 years since the eruption, this entire area northeast of the volcano is still barren and moonlike. Small shrubs, grasses and wildflowers have taken root, but I did not see a single sapling to replace the thousands of broken trees. I suppose that will take much more time, when the soil has a chance to develop from the pumice and sand it is today.

This hike is nine miles total, climbing up and down about 1000' in elevation, steeply at times. The trail is completely exposed, so be sure to wear sunscreen. The winds were fierce while I was on the trail, making it impossible to wear my hat, resulting in a nasty sunburn on my scalp.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/plains_of_abrah.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/07/plains_of_abrah.html hikes Thu, 05 Jul 2007 11:29:02 -0800 Walking the Cats EDMONDS, WA :: We love our cats. Unfortunately, this means they are fated to a life indoors. It's just too dangerous in our area to let them roam outside. There are coyotes, raccoons, opossums, cars and feral cats to worry about. However, I also don't think it's right to deprive the cats of the outdoors. But how to let them enjoy it safely? Our best options are: 1) build them a huge, unattractive cage in the backyard, or 2) leash train them so that we can take them on supervised walks outside the house.

We decided to try the leashes first. Kristie was doubtful it would work, but I was more optimistic. The first day, I simply placed their harnesses on them (of course, it was a green harness for Sage, and "the black" for Mance). At first they ran through the house and tried their best to pull them off, but that only lasted about ten minutes. I played with them for about an hour until they completely forgot they were wearing them. A couple days later, we put the harnesses on them again with the leashes this time, just walking them through the house. Then we opened the screen door...

At first they were terrified of the new environment, even though they had been studying it through the windows for the past year. They desperately wanted to run back into the house. We gave them a few days and tried again. This time, they cautiously explored the entire perimeter of the backyard, running back to the screen door every now and then to their safe spot and to get their bearings. After about twenty minutes, they were chasing bugs and each other. They love it! And in case you don't believe it, these photos are proof!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/walking_the_cats.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/walking_the_cats.html misc Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:13:23 -0800 ARTOPIA GEORGETOWN, SEATTLE, WA :: Today, Kristie and I walked the streets of Georgetown for the very first time. The old industrial neighborhood hosted a festival of art, music, theater and events. We peeked inside a few of the galleries and were as perplexed as we usually are when viewing contemporary art, but we could appreciate most of the pieces for their whimsy.

The highlight was the Seattle Power Tool Race and Derby, a drag race between vehicles built out of various powertools, including beltsanders, chainsaws and rocket-powered handvacs. It was a lot of fun, although seriously dangerous as well. I'm surprised the city allows it! If it's still around, I think I'll have to submit an entry for next year's race!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/artopia.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/artopia.html events Sat, 23 Jun 2007 11:41:44 -0800 Fourth of July Creek WENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I enjoyed the first full day of summer in the mountains, hiking the Fourth of July Creek trail to Icicle Ridge and the site of an old fire lookout. The lookout is no longer there, and I had to wonder why as I weaved through the skeletal remains of a forest that succumbed to a fairly recent wildfire. Maybe there are better ways of monitoring fires in the wilderness these days, or perhaps there just isn't the necessary staffing and/or funding to do so.

It was sunny, but a cold breeze blew through the valley most of the day. This caused the burnt trees to sway and moan. At times, the creaking branches sounded a little too much like screaming children. My eyes scanned the trees for the real danger of falling limbs, and I looked over my shoulder a few times to check for those imaginary kids. It was neat walking through the naked trees, but a little creepy too.

I reached the ridge where there were still a few patches of snow. The wind was too hard and too cold on top of the lookout site, where only rusted bolts remain. I took shelter behind the large rocks to enjoy my lunch and views of the Enchantment peaks.

There was another car at the trailhead, but I didn't see anyone else on the trail the entire day. Depending on which guide you believe, this hike is about 11-13 miles roundtrip, climbing 4800'.

Trip report posted with additional discussion at nwhikers.net.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/fourth_of_july.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/fourth_of_july.html hikes Fri, 22 Jun 2007 11:09:34 -0800 The Police KEY ARENA, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I initially didn't have high expectations for The Police concert. We thought it would be a relatively quiet night, with us having a good time singing along to familiar tunes from the early 80s. Our expectations sank lower after Copeland's well-publicized criticism of the rehearsals in Vancouver... But wow! What a difference a week apparently makes! The Police put on a great show in Seattle tonight!

The band kicked it off with a recording of Bob Marley's "Get Up, Stand Up," a salute to the reggae sound that influences so many of their songs. Copeland walked out first and rang an enormous gong. The crowd was roaring and on their feet for most the show as the band played renewed versions of the following songs:

Message in a Bottle, Synchronicity II, Don't Stand So Close to Me, Voices Inside My Head, When the World Is Running Down You Make the Best of What's Still Around, Spirits in the Material World, Driven to Tears, Walking on the Moon, Truth Hits Everybody, Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic, Wrapped Around Your Finger, The Bed's Too Big Without You, Regatta De Blanc, De Do Do Do De Da Da Da, Invisible Sun, Walking in Your Footsteps, Can't Stand Losing You, Roxanne, King of Pain, So Lonely, Every Breath You Take, and Next to You.

There was a lot of energy in the crowd and the band was smiling, joking, and having fun as if the break-up never occured. Really though, how can you not be having the time of your life as a legendary rockstar playing some of the greatest hits of an era to sold-out arenas, especially after a 20 year lapse? Sting looks and sounds incredible at 55 (fifty-five!). He sang through many high notes and "ee-yo-yo-yos" without falter. Likewise, Stewart and Andy are still amazing. The band rocked! And I'm guessing Kristie and I will be humming Police songs for at least a month now.

Here's a great YouTube video of "So Lonely" from the concert:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaOwOahoh7Q
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/the_police_concert_seattle_key_arena.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/the_police_concert_seattle_key_arena.html shows Thu, 07 Jun 2007 11:01:10 -0800 Moscow Cats Theater SEATTLE REPERTORY THEATRE, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I were looking forward to a show featuring a troupe of specially trained cats. The Moscow Cats Theater website says the following:

"35 cats! 1 dog! 5 clowns! Death defying Balancing Acts! Dancing! Acrobatics! The only entertainment of its kind in the World-features non-stop action by a group of talented felines performing original and astounding acrobatic feats, integrated into a non-verbal, colorful and fun-filled family show."

The reality, we discovered, is you can only train a cat to do so much (thus the large number of them). While the cats were cute and entertaining as they took turns performing their simple tricks, the one dog upstaged the cats everytime. I'm not even sure why he was a part of the Moscow Cats Theater. It would have been neat to see the cats and the dog interact, but they were never onstage together. A couple cats would run across the floor, hopping over a couple obstacles, if they were in the mood. Then out comes the Chow Chow, dancing, prancing, flipping, and doing a series of tricks perfectly everytime, right on cue.

I dislike clowns, so I thought the five in the show were more annoying than funny. Between the "death-defying ... and astounding acrobatic feats," the clowns would perform mediocre juggling, tap dance, or mime acts! Yes, mime! Again, why is this in the Moscow Cats (emphasis on cats!) Theater? If you added up the stage time of the cats, it would account for barely 15 minutes out of the 60 minute show. Not a big deal if expectations were properly set and tickets were $15 each, but they cost more than three times that.

Oh well, at least we were able to go home without thinking our own cats are inadequate. Most of the "tricks" were things our cats and others would naturally do on a daily basis. The night was redeemed when we encountered fellow cat fanciers, David, Lorra, Mark and Mary. We enjoyed a nice dinner and drinks together at McMenamins Pub, where the tater tots are to die for!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/moscow_cats_theater.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/06/moscow_cats_theater.html shows Sat, 02 Jun 2007 11:07:48 -0800 San Francisco SAN FRANCISCO, CA :: After wandering around Chinatown, I decided to visit a few other landmarks in San Francisco, including Coit Tower, The Palace of Fine Arts and The Golden Gate Bridge. I think I would have enjoyed spending more time in the city to walk through Fisherman's Wharf and/or Golden Gate Park, but it was very windy and a chilly 60 degrees, about 35 degrees cooler than my previous two days in the San Joaquin Valley. A thick fog was beginning to roll in, and I was just in shorts and a short-sleeve shirt. After a quick stop at Alamo Point to see the famous Six Sisters (I only managed to include five in the above photo), I was glad to be heading back towards San Jose.

Kristie and I will be back in San Francisco for a week in October. Let us know what else we should see and do while we're there!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/san_francisco.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/san_francisco.html travel Mon, 28 May 2007 12:11:18 -0800 San Francisco Chinatown SAN FRANCISCO, CA :: After my hike up Yosemite's Half Dome, I had an extra day to explore downtown San Francisco. I started with a dim sum lunch at Yank Sing. As I enjoyed a blossom tea, busy servers steered carts past me. I was free to select among the many little plates containing bite-sized mysteries, all of which ended up being quite good. With a full belly, I walked the short distance to the Chinatown gate.

San Francisco Chinatown is the largest Chinatown district outside of Asia, so I definitely didn't see it all. I peeked into a few of the fascinating shops and ventured a ways up and down some of the side-streets. It's a great place to enjoy a couple hours, sampling the sights and sounds of different cultures.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/chinatown.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/chinatown.html travel Mon, 28 May 2007 11:16:38 -0800 Half Dome YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CA :: I've wanted to visit Yosemite for a long time. I finally had an opportunity over Memorial Day weekend when a business trip placed me in the Silicon Valley. Kristie would be busy writing a final paper and the weather was going to be perfect. It seemed like all of the stars were aligned, telling me to go. So I packed my bags and decided to take on the legendary hike up Half Dome.

The trail to the top of Half Dome is challenging, to say the least. It climbs 4800’ over approximately 20 miles. My route started at 5:30 AM near Curry Village, the closest available parking I could find on the busy, holiday weekend. From there, it was a mile-long walk just to reach the trailhead. I chose the John Muir Trail on the way up (9.7 miles) and the Mist Trail on the way down (8.2 miles). I highly recommend this route, especially on a very hot day. The JMT is a much gentler ascent, and the cooling mist from Vernal Falls is a refreshing reward waiting near the end of the hike. However, if your knees don't like walking down stairs, then do the reverse.

Near the summit are a pair of cables which are absolutely necessary for the final 400’ of elevation. At the base of the cables are a pile of gloves. I brought my own and can't imagine the blisters my hands would have suffered without them. As I pulled my way up, I was literally holding onto those steel ropes for my life. At its steepest, the smooth, granite slope tilts 50 degrees. Occasionally, I looked down and around me, realizing a slip would be a pretty bad thing, and held on tighter. As I heaved myself up another few feet, I hoped it would all be worth it.

It was tough! But it was also one of the most rewarding and absolutely incredible experiences in my life. It took me four and a half hours to reach the top, where I spent an hour and a half enjoying the view, and another six hours to get back down, stopping to take many photos along the way (they appear below in the order I took them). Amazingly, my body handled the trail surprisingly well. I was barely sore and had enough energy in my legs to walk around San Francisco and Chinatown the following day. The only blister I got was on the inside of my right-middle finger, caused by my trekking poles or by gripping the cables too tightly.

When I finally returned to my car, twelve hours later, I drove up to Glacier Point to survey my accomplishment. The sun was setting, casting a warm glow over the beautiful Yosemite Valley and majestic Half Dome. The incredible sight was the perfect way to conclude an absolutely amazing day!

Trip report posted with additional discussion at nwhikers.net.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/half_dome.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/half_dome.html hikes Sun, 27 May 2007 11:36:51 -0800 Chicago CHICAGO, IL :: A recent business trip had me travelling through the Midwestern towns of Indianapolis, Louisville, Cincinnati and Columbus. Of those, I found Louisville to be the nicest, with a suprisingly vibrant nightlife on the neighborhood streets and beautiful scenery all around. I'd like to go back someday.

Unfortunately, my return flight from Columbus through O'Hare was delayed several hours by thunderstorms. When the plane was finally cleared for takeoff, I watched dozens of streaks of lightning touch the horizon. Above the cloud deck, the flashes chained through the clouds, filling them with surreal sheets of light. It was a short and thrilling flight, but I missed my connection to Seattle. I decided to make the most of it by giving myself the following day to explore the Windy City.

It was my first time in Chicago, and I really didn't know what to expect. I wandered up and down Michigan Avenue, crossed the Chicago River, saw the L-trains, enjoyed the view from the Sears Tower, marvelled at the silver bean in Millenium Park, continued over to the museums along Lake Michigan, and trespassed into Soldier Field. It was indeed windy in Chicago, and a set of chain link fences surrounding the stadium had been blown down, which I felt at liberty to cross to snap a quick panorama.

Chicago is a great city and I really enjoyed my day. I wish I had more time to visit the Robie House and to wander Rush Street. I also wish I had my Rebel with me (all of these were shot with the Elph). Kristie has always wanted to visit, so I'm sure we'll be back there someday soon. If you've been to Chicago, let us know what else we shouldn't miss.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/chicago.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/chicago.html travel Wed, 02 May 2007 12:08:28 -0800 Flamingo CHICAGO, IL :: While viewing the beautiful city of Chicago from the Sears Tower Skydeck, I noticed a distinct, red object within a plaza 103 floors below me. I'm a big fan of Alexander Calder's mobiles and stabiles, and I immediately recognized the form as one of his best works. Back on the ground, I found three Mies van der Rohe buildings surrounding the 53' foot tall "Flamingo", its red, soaring arches a stark contrast to the disciplined and unadorned structures behind it. One form is heart, spirit and emotion. The other is skeletal, reasonable, and pragmatic. Perhaps the composition is a reminder that we need both qualities in our lives...

Or maybe it is just a giant flamingo.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/flamingo.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/05/flamingo.html travel Wed, 02 May 2007 11:15:38 -0800 Boulder River BOULDER RIVER WILDERNESS, WA :: The Boulder River trail is a nearby favorite. As usual, it was wet and muddy, with many blowdowns to weave around, crawl under, or climb over. I was plenty dirty by the time I got back to my car!

This trail is definitely more about the journey than the destination, as there really isn't anything at the turn-around point. At the four mile mark, you'll find a bank of the river and a few overpopulated campsites amidst damp ground and stinking skunk cabbage. There are better river sites and views along the trail, including a couple waterfalls. I saw many groups of backpackers heading in, and I wasn't sure why or where they were going to setup camp, but then again, back in the day, I've camped here a couple times as well. Neither were particularly good experiences (constant rain and an unidentifiable stench during one trip, and a merciless attack of biting flies during the other), but we made the best of it.

I hiked all the way to the end just to see if conditions had improved over the past few years... They haven't, but along the way I was able to enjoy the lush scenery, large trees, the river, the waterfalls, and a couple small details. This hike is a little over eight miles roundtrip, with some minor ups and downs totalling 1000 feet.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/04/boulder_river.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/04/boulder_river.html hikes Sat, 28 Apr 2007 11:06:21 -0800 Skagit Valley Tulip Festival LA CONNER, WA :: Kristie and I headed North after work on Friday to enjoy a nice walk through fields of blooming tulips on a rare, sunny and warm Spring evening. Actually, little of my time was spent walking... Mostly I was just standing, waiting for the sun to peek through the clouds, or I was rolling around in the dirt trying to get a good angle on the flowers. I had warned Kristie it might be boring for her, but she still insisted on joining me, offering to carry my bag and/or tripod when my hands were full. It turns out she's a great photographer's assistant!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/04/skagit_valley_t_1.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/04/skagit_valley_t_1.html events Fri, 06 Apr 2007 11:14:26 -0800 The French Quarter NEW ORLEANS, LA :: A long business trip to New Orleans was both very productive and very fun! When I wasn't conducting demonstrations, engaged in round tables, or spending facetime with existing clients, I was free to soak up The Big Easy. I arrived on St. Patrick's Day and Bourbon Street was absolutely cram-packed with festive revelers (and revealers!). I hopped from bar to bar, carrying my drinks through the streets (which is legal and encouraged in The French Quarter), catching parts of the second round NCAA tournament game between WSU and Vanderbilt. I finally settled on a place with a surpisingly large contingent of Cougs and watched our heart-breaking elimination in a double-overtime game.

Back on Bourbon Street, it was raining beads. Despite a devasting hurricane, The French Quarter hasn't changed much since the last time I was there, nearly eight years ago. The only differences I noted were a much larger police presence, and bead collecting seems to have evolved into an equal opportunity franchise for both women and men. An even population from each gender was proudly displaying private parts in exchange for necklaces of shiny plastic. I neither gave nor attempted to receive any beads, but it was fun to watch and cheer them. But that kind of excitement wears thin, and I returned to my hotel, The Monteleone, vowing to only enjoy the sinless attractions of New Orleans for the rest of my stay.

It was actually pretty easy, as Bourbon Street never came close to the level of frenzy it had reached on St. Patrick's Day. The days were warm and sunny, the nights were slightly humid and sultry, the dining was consistently fantastic, and the overall pace was relaxed and slow. In between and after meetings, I was really enjoying the unique charms of New Orleans. The history, the culture, the attitude, the food, the sights and the sounds. I was beginning to appreciate how a transplanted Southerner might miss his or her home.

But a transplanted Northwesterner misses his home too, especially a home that houses his loving fiancée (and two wonderful cats). I highly recommend a visit to New Orleans if you haven't been, but after six memorable days, I was very eager to return.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/03/the_french_quar.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/03/the_french_quar.html travel Sat, 17 Mar 2007 11:55:20 -0800 TAIKOPROJECT EDMONDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS, EDMONDS, WA :: Kristie is a drum freak. She enjoys listening to all kinds of drums: steel drums, congas, bongos, tom-toms, hi-hats, snares, bass drums, marching band drums, drum machines, and especially taiko drums; the bigger the better.

One of the most talented and innovative taiko groups, TAIKOPROJECT, held a performance at the brand new Edmonds Center for the Arts. Their two-hour set included a variety of different taiko styles, traditional and contemporary. Each song was introduced with a short narrative or lesson via one of the performers or a movie screen that descended from above the stage.

At times the show was funny, other times serious, and throughout the night energetic, entertaining and exhilarating. The carefully choreographed songs that emphasized the Japanese concept of "ma" (space or emptiness) were poetic and enchanting. Deep sounds punctuated with the "teek teek" sound of the "bachi" (drum sticks) striking each other took my thoughts to visions of Japanese gardens and contemplation. The faster music had the entire audience cheering along, and my mind was filled with images of large battlefields swarming with fearsome samurai armies. Hearing and feeling the thunderous beat of the immense "o-daiko" drum is a truly awesome experience!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/03/taikoproject.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/03/taikoproject.html shows Thu, 15 Mar 2007 11:18:10 -0800 Commonwealth Basin MT. BAKER-SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: On this first day of 2007, Kristie and I enjoyed a snowshoe hike through Commonwealth Basin near Snoqualmie Pass. We had originally planned to explore Pipe Creek near Blewett Pass, but the roads were getting kind of dicey over the mountains, so we cut our drive time in half and still had a great time.

The sign above the Family Pancake House at Snoqualmie Summit displayed a temperature of 15 degrees. It was pretty cold, but once we started moving, we warmed up rather quickly and started shedding our outer layers. Fresh snow blanketed everything in the woods and it was very pretty. Unfortunately, the falling snow turned into tiny ice pellets that stung whenever they hit our exposed skin, so after an hour of romping through the network of trails, we called it a day and headed back.

2006 was an incredible year for us, and we're looking forward to an exciting 2007! We hope everyone had a wonderful holiday. Happy New Year!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/01/commonwealth_ba.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2007/01/commonwealth_ba.html hikes Mon, 01 Jan 2007 11:35:24 -0800 Christmas EDMONDS, WA :: Our first Christmas in our new home with our new kittens was wonderful! The photo above shows Sage stalking Mance from under the tree. We tried our best to keep them away from it, but I imagine even an artificial tree must be irresistible to a pair of indoor cats. They have yet to climb it or knock it down, so perhaps it's okay to let them lie under the warm glow of the bulbs. We moved the ornaments to the higher branches, after finding a few around the house.

Christmas would have been perfect, if not for the severe cases of stomach flu we both battled around Christmas Eve. Time with our families was unfortunately cut short and we spent most of Christmas Day in bed. We're glad to be feeling much better now.

And I'm very glad I'm able to enjoy my awesome gifts! Kristie spoiled me rotten again this year! First, she got me a cool advent calendar which she stocked with all sorts of different chocolates and cookies. It was fun to open a new door everyday. Then, she surprised me with a 42" plasma TV!!! I got an adjustable mount and hung the TV above the fireplace where it looks great!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/12/christmas_2.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/12/christmas_2.html events Mon, 25 Dec 2006 11:46:49 -0800 2006 Photo Album EDMONDS, WA :: Just in time for the holidays, I created another photo album to capture and share some of the milestones and events Kristie and I experienced in 2006. Like last year, I used MyPublisher to compose and print the album. The updated software offered several improved layouts, background colors and other new options. Again, we were very impressed by the quality of the books and the quick turnaround. They arrived just a few days after ordering in neat, durable packaging. We used the Costco discount (20% off) and had a couple extra copies made to give as gifts.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/12/2006_photo_albu.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/12/2006_photo_albu.html projects Wed, 20 Dec 2006 11:49:35 -0800 Mini-Pendant Chandelier EDMONDS, WA :: With most of the house renovations complete, we finally invited our friends over for a dinner party. We looked forward to using our new table, chairs and place settings, but the dining room still had a very ugly ceiling light which we had not yet replaced. We simply hadn't found anything that we liked and would match the long, modern-looking table. I began thinking, "Well, how hard would it be to make a chandelier?" I had five evenings before the dinner to find out.

I really like the look of mini-pendant lights. The more, the better! My vision was to arrange about 20 of them in a long line, scattered about in an organic pattern. I needed to construct a mount and figure out a way to convert the line voltage to 12 volts to power the 10 watt lamps. I'm not much of an electrician, and I was trying to keep the project around $300, so I figured it was best to cannabilize several existing low-voltage, mini-pendant lamps. IKEA hooked me up with three KRYSSBO lamps that came with some nice looking, glass pendants, bulbs, and the necessary transformers. I grabbed a spool of speaker wire, some wood, and I was set.

Constructing the mount and wiring the lights was pretty easy. I cut matching lengths of aluminum tubing to conceal the wiring between the IKEA pendants and my speaker wire. The hardest part of the entire project was crawling up into the attic to hang bridging between the joists to provide a sturdy support for the chandelier. It probably weighed about 60 pounds. Four carriage bolts dropped through my 2x4s and the chandelier mount seemed to do the trick.

The dinner party was a lot of fun and we're very happy with the way the chandelier turned out. I only wish I had found some wiring that was all silver colored, instead of the copper-aluminum pair that I ended up using. The copper color is a little distracting, but it's not too bad. Since the chandelier is removable, I may replace the wiring, but there are many other projects still awaiting!

UPDATE: Check out the Instructable for this project.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/11/minipendant_cha.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/11/minipendant_cha.html projects Thu, 16 Nov 2006 11:45:14 -0800 Halloween EDMONDS, WA :: We decided to have a little fun with the trick-or-treaters this Halloween, our first in our new home. We placed five jack-o-lanterns around our entryway, replaced the outside lights with red bulbs, and placed several black lights around the inside of the door. The black lights kept the hall dark and lit up our simple ghost outfits, creating an eerie effect for those looking through the door's frosted windows.

Each time we heard the doorbell, we'd "float" towards the door and make moaning noises, causing the kids on the other side to scream or squeal as the mysterious pair of ghostly figures emerged from the darkness. Some of our neighbors had their yard filled with those generic inflatables, but I think we scored more points with the kids and parents with our presentation!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/halloween.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/halloween.html events Tue, 31 Oct 2006 11:22:20 -0800 Halloween Sugar Cookies EDMONDS, WA :: This Halloween we made a bunch of cookies in the shape of ghosts, pumpkins, bats and cats. It was fun and the cookies were delicious! Batches went out to family, friends and co-workers. We used the wildly popular Perfect Vegan Sugar Cookies recipe from last year - the most visited page on our website, with over 20,000 hits as of this posting!

Tip: Making black frosting is possible, but it takes a LOT of food coloring. Keep adding drops of red, green and blue until your greyish-purple frosting darkens into a convincing black.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/halloween_sugar.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/halloween_sugar.html projects Sat, 28 Oct 2006 11:13:14 -0800 Rockport ROCKPORT, MA :: On our last day in New England, Kristie and I headed north from Boston to check out Rockport and Salem. Rockport is a small fishing village and artist community on the coast of Cape Ann. A pedestrian-only zone contains many quaint shops, cafes and galleries.

In nearby Gloucester, we stopped at a beach and touched the Atlantic Ocean for the first time. It's just as wet as the Pacific, but I think I much prefer the beaches along our coasts in Washington, Oregon and California. Why?

Sunsets.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/rockport.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/rockport.html travel Mon, 23 Oct 2006 11:14:25 -0800 Trails Near Boston MILTON AND CONCORD, MA :: Today we drove a short distance away from the city to experience a few of the natural attractions in Massachussetts. The first stop was a four mile loop to the top of Great Blue Hill, the highest point of elevation within ten miles of the entire Atlantic coast. A stone lookout tower offers a sweeping view of the Boston skyline and the 6,500 acres of woods within the Blue Hills Reservation.

Next, we stopped at several battleground sites between Lexington and Concord on our way to Walden Pond, where Henry David Thoreau lived for two years writing Walden, or Life in the Woods. I must admit that I don't know too much about Thoreau or Transcendentalism , but it was a pretty pond. We followed a 1.5 mile trail that loops around it.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/trails_near_bos.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/trails_near_bos.html hikes Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:50:54 -0800 Life is Good Pumpkin Festival BOSTON COMMON, BOSTON, MA :: We were in Boston Common this evening to enjoy the second annual Life is Good Pumpkin Festival. The event is a fundraiser for Camp Sunshine, a program to allow kids with life-threatening illnesses to attend a weeklong camp with their families. In order to bring attention to the event, thousands of jack-o'-lanterns were carved and lit in an attempt to break a world record held by Keene, NH since 2003. The much smaller population of Keene was able to simultaneously light 28,952 pumpkins. Quite a feat!

As the official count was updated and announced throughout the night, the suspense grew greater and the park became more beautiful with each new row of freshly carved and twinkling pumpkins. We saw people arriving from the subway with their jack-o'-lanterns in hand, eager to contribute. Were they able to do it?

Kristie and I were happy to celebrate with Boston as they announced a new world record of 30,952 pumpkins! It was an amazing sight!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/pumpkin_festiva.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/pumpkin_festiva.html travel Sat, 21 Oct 2006 11:29:34 -0800 Mount Auburn Cemetery CAMBRIDGE, MA :: Boston is home to many of America's "firsts", including the first college, first post office, first public park, first public school, first public library, first lighthouse, first subway, and first marathon. In nearby Cambridge, I visited the nation's first garden cemetery, Mount Auburn Cemetery, whose founders' were the first with the idea that a cemetery should be a beautiful and tranquil place.

Indeed, the cemetery is very pretty to walk through, particularly at this time of the year when the trees are changing colors and the fallen leaves cover the ground with a mosaic of reds, oranges and yellows. I was almost able to forget the grief and sadness that occurs here. Almost. It's hard not to read the gravestones and become saddened by the thought of losing your own loved ones... How depressing.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/mount_auburn_ce.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/mount_auburn_ce.html travel Thu, 19 Oct 2006 11:46:03 -0800 Harvard Square CAMBRIDGE, MA :: We crossed the Charles River and walked around Harvard Square and Harvard Yard, which was kind of neat. I think I was most excited to see the offices of Dewey Cheetham & Howe and Kristie was thrilled to find a new book, "Frames of Reference for the Assessment of Learning Disabilities," at Harvard's student bookstore, The Coop.

There are many shops and cafes throughout Harvard Square, but it's nothing special when compared to the retail districts of other major universities. Likewise, Harvard Yard doesn't inspire much emotion. It's the nation's oldest university, and I'm sure the bright students are far too focused on studying to care about their relatively simple surroundings, but I've been much more impressed by other campuses. Perhaps Harvard's main campus has more going for it, but we didn't have time to wander through it.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/harvard_square.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/harvard_square.html travel Wed, 18 Oct 2006 12:11:50 -0800 Boston BOSTON, MA :: Kristie needed to be in Boston for an Association of Educational Therapists conference. I tagged along and added a few extra days to our trip to experience New England and celebrate our fifth anniversary (and engagement) together. Neither of us had been to Boston before. We had a great time exploring the city and Eastern Massachusetts, an area saturated with well-preserved and fascinating history. And we were very charmed to hear the residents speaking like the brothers on Car Talk - or rather, Cah Talk.

We followed the Freedom Trail, a brick stripe in the sidewalks of downtown Boston, punctuated by some the city's most famous sites. It's a really cool idea, and I think every city should have something similiar. We also explored Boston Public Garden and the cobbled streets of Beacon Hill. At the Faneuil Hall market, I enjoyed the tasty chowdah and a lobstah roll sandwich.

We rented a car, which was great for driving outside of the city, but nevah, evah, evah drive a cah into Boston! Our first couple days were a nightmare as we tried to navigate the heavy traffic, crazy drivers, curvy streets, potholes, rotaries, tolls, and the Big Dig tunnels still undergoing construction. Parking was also frustrating and expensive. I've driven through a fair number of American cities, and I'd have to say driving through Boston is the absolute worst. We quickly learned to use the subway system and loved it.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/boston.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/boston.html travel Wed, 18 Oct 2006 11:11:22 -0800 We're Engaged! SEATTLE, WA :: It shouldn't be a surprise to our family and friends, but Kristie and I are now officially betrothed! I surprised her with dinner at Palace Kitchen, where we had our very first date five years ago. After our nice meal, we went to the beach at Golden Gardens, where we were first introduced to each other during the Summer of '99. It's amazing how much things have changed! I lit a bonfire and we sat on a log to reminisce on our wonderful lives together.

I somehow mustered up enough courage to tell her I didn't want to be her boyfriend any longer. I said I wanted to be her fiancé and husband, and I popped the question. She replied with a sudden gush of tears, which I took as a yes.

The ring was custom designed and crafted at Green Lake Jewelry Works. For three months, I worked with their consultants to come up with a perfect and unique engagement ring for Kristie. We used sketches, CAD, and precisely milled wax models to refine the design. They were very helpful and great to work with throughout the entire process, and I was very happy with the end result. Most importantly, Kristie absolutely loves it.

We were engaged on Friday the 13th. From now on, those dates will no longer be a bad omen, but a happy reminder of a very special day.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/were_engaged.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/were_engaged.html events Fri, 13 Oct 2006 11:10:31 -0800 Mance & Sage EDMONDS, WA :: The kittens are taking over our website! Kristie insisted we post more photos of them in our album, because they're growing so fast. They've nearly doubled in size, but they're still pretty darn cute.

It took us a few days to come up with names. Kristie decided on Sage to match the girl's greenish eyes, and I initially thought I would name the boy Mace so that we could have a duo of herbs. But I wanted the name to have more significance, so I added a letter to match a character in one of my favorite series of books. If you've read George R.R. Martin's "Song of Ice and Fire," then you know Mance, and you might agree it's a pretty good name for a cat, especially one that sings! Mance is the musical and lovable lap cat. Sage is the frisky and ambitious one.

The cats will always be kept indoors, so we made a big purchase to make litter cleanup less of a chore. The bottom two photos show our Litter Robot, an automated litter box that actually works! So far it's been great, except Sage isn't heavy enough yet to activate the sensor, so she experiences a little tumble occasionally as the orb rotates to clean. It's definitely worth the cost. The bin just needs to be emptied once a week and the litter replaced every two weeks.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/mance_sage.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/mance_sage.html misc Wed, 11 Oct 2006 11:01:10 -0800 Maple Pass OKANOGAN NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: This hike was my first experience of the golden larch. The larch is a unique, deciduous conifer. Its needles turn bright yellow every Fall, and the event drives the fine people at NWHikers.net into a frenzy. Every other message seems to be about when and where to find them. Was the craze justified? I had to find out.

The loop trail to Maple Pass and around Lake Ann was mentioned several times as a prime viewing area for the captivating trees. It's a long drive there and back from Edmonds, just under three hours each way. I hoped it would be worth it. Sure enough, I passed through many larch groves, but under the overcast skies, they weren't very impressive. Fortunately, this changed as I made my way over Maple Pass and the clouds parted. The sun lit up the golden trees and the blue sky provided a beautiful, contrasting backdrop. This is the scene that people rightfully go nuts for. It was spectacular!

This hike would be wonderful most of the year. The 7.5 mile trail climbs 1800' and crests a narrow ridge between Lake Ann and Rainy Lake. The splashes of autumn color around Rainy Lake was intense, reminding me of a bowl of Fruity Pebbles. Mmmm!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/maple_pass.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/maple_pass.html hikes Thu, 05 Oct 2006 11:04:11 -0800 Cirque du Soleil: Delirium KEY ARENA, SEATTLE, WA :: The Cirque du Soleil was in town again to perform their best songs in a very entertaining and overwhelming multimedia concert. Musicians, singers, dancers, and acrobats enacted a sequence of dream-like stories as large-scale videos were projected on moving screens. The acrobatic performances were amazing, but not as breathtaking as in other Cirque du Soleil shows; the focus was on the music.

The songs spanned a wide range of musical styles. African chants, latin dance, soaring ballads, jazzy solos, techno beats and rock anthems had us tapping our feet and bobbing our heads throughout the night. We both would have thoroughly enjoyed the musical performances and dance choreography on their own, but the acrobatics and special effects made it much more entertaining and truly immersive.

The long stage bisected the audience, and a cleverly designed scaffolding system moved enormous curtains, screens and other props across the floor. Huge projections created surreal environments of outerspace, the ocean, gardens and more. The gauzy transparency of some of the screens enhanced the illusion of being in the dreamy scenes. If you get a chance to see the show, I highly recommend it! (They'll be back in Portland, OR a little later this month.)
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/cirque_du_solei.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/10/cirque_du_solei.html shows Wed, 04 Oct 2006 11:10:59 -0800 Mexico City MEXICO CITY, MEXICO :: The company sent me and a coworker to Mexico City for a few days. It was a great trip! We successfully deployed a major account, the clients were thrilled, and we were able to explore a tiny part of the world's second largest city.

Thousands of people were protesting the recent presidential election by camping on the major avenues and squares in the Centro Historico. Because of this, the airport taxi could not bring us to the door of our hotel. We had to walk with our bags a couple blocks through Alameda Park. Despite this, we never felt threatened or in danger during our stay. Frankly, I was impressed by the protestors' democratic spirit, and everyone seemed very friendly and peaceful. Women and acquaintances of the opposite sex in Mexico City are greeted with a hug and kiss on the cheeks, and we saw many, many couples cuddling everywhere we went.

Several times we were offered services without asking, such as the bag handler that grabbed our bags just as we stepped out of customs. Turns out he worked for a legitimate taxi company, but an introduction would have been nice. A kind old man duped me into conversation and then started polishing my shoe without asking. I had to firmly tell him to stop and wipe off the mess. Nearly everyone around a historic building is a tour guide, willing to tell you something for a few pesos.

We only saw a handful of tourists. Perhaps the protests frightened them away, or we just weren't in the touristy areas. Some of the highlights from the trip: The Palace of Fine Arts, the Zócalo, the Metropolitan Cathedral, sidewalks crammed with vendors, and meals at Café de Tacuba and Parrilla Leonesa. We also happened by a beautiful museum of old spanish paintings depicting the conquistadors and the architecture of Gaudi. I don't think I'd ever choose to return to Mexico City, but if I did, I'd enjoy the streets and squares without the protestors, and explore the other districts and the nearby ruins at Teotihuacan.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/09/mexico_city.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/09/mexico_city.html travel Tue, 12 Sep 2006 11:05:03 -0800 EIG Website EDMONDS, WA :: Please excuse the shameless self-promotion, but today is a proud day! The website for Kristie's insurance agency has finally launched, nearly a year after English Insurance Group, LLC opened its doors for business. It has been a challenge finding the time to design, develop and write it, but we're very happy with the result: a new lead has already contacted Kristie via the website!

You can check it out by visiting the following URL:

http://www.EnglishInsuranceGroup.com

Once there, you can learn all about different types of insurance, browse the comprehensive glossary and FAQs, subscribe to a newsletter, request a free quote, search, use an interactive map to find directions to the office, submit an email message to any of the departments, and chat live with an agent (via InstantService's outstanding chat technology).

The logo on the website includes an English Oak, which represents the shelter, strength, quality, care and dependability that English Insurance Group provides. Of course, the oak tree also shares the last name of the mother and daughter team that run the agency. Kristie and her mom very much enjoy working together and with their excellent employees and clients.

The office is in a beautiful setting, situated above a scenic pond and wetlands populated with ducks, geese, fish, cranes and otters. We hope you'll visit someday!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/09/eig_website.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/09/eig_website.html projects Sat, 09 Sep 2006 11:55:07 -0800 Kitties EDMONDS, WA :: Kristie and I are the proud new parents of two cute kittens! They were adopted from the Everett Animal Shelter. The girl is five weeks old and the boy is five months old.

Unfortunately, the two aren't getting acquainted very well. I think the little girl is intimidated by the bigger boy, so she hisses at him and then he starts growling. We hope they'll learn to like each other soon. Perhaps when she's a little bigger? Any tips from the cat experts out there?

Fortunately, both have been purring nearly nonstop for almost two days. They follow us around everywhere now. The girl has an extra toe on each front paw that acts as an opposable thumb. It's funny to see her pick up things. The boy has a nice white belly and mittens. We've yet to come up with names for them.

UPDATE: On the fourth day in our house, the kittens are finally accepting each other. They now play, eat and sleep together! No more hissing and growling. Hooray!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/08/kitties.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/08/kitties.html misc Sun, 27 Aug 2006 11:06:07 -0800 Morimoto PHILADELPHIA, PA :: I was in Philadelphia this week with a couple coworkers, and I fully intended to subsist on just Philly cheesesteaks in my attempt to find the best one. However, Scott happens to be pretty good at ordering sushi, so we had to find a good sushi restaurant. In San Francisco, he took me to sushi nirvana with an unforgettable meal at Blowfish, where anime film clips and trance music accompanied our sushi and ice-cold 22-ounce Asahi beers. Morimoto provided us with a similiar experience, although with a touch more class. No anime, but the fish was great and the lights underneath the translucent seats changed colors throughout the night.

Our austere waitress informed us that Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto owns the restaurant, and the fish and other ingredients are flown in four times a week from Japan. We started with some uramaki, filled with spicey tuna, soft shell crab, and sea urchin. Ironically, we did not find the Philadelphia roll on the menu, nor the delicious and crunchy dynamite roll. I guess Chef Morimoto is a purist. The main course included huge portions of nigiri, which we watched being meticulously prepared by the chef as he joked with us at the bar. The fish on our platter included eel, tuna, yellowtail, salmon, and the melt-in-your-mouth toro (fatty tuna). The thought of it is making me drool. Domo arigato, Morimoto!

The interior of the restaurant was very cool, so I took these photos with my Elph. We explored several other neat restaurants, bars and sites during our evenings in Philly. I've been extremely busy lately travelling and working on the house, but I'll try to post some more photos soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/08/morimoto.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/08/morimoto.html travel Mon, 07 Aug 2006 11:13:22 -0800 Green Mountain MT. BAKER-SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: Each time I've hiked Green Mountain, I've been impressed by how stunningly green it really is. A nearly overgrown section of the trail cuts through a densely vegetated slope of grasses and shrubs. The perfectly green expanse was dotted with millions of wildflowers in many different colors. Some of the flowers would take flight as I approached them, scattering into the air as a dozen butterflies. To top it off, it was all underneath a sapphire sky with jagged, snow-capped peaks on the horizon. This is a beautiful trail!

I heard my first pika squeak and saw my first marmot of the summer, including one brave, little fellow who claimed the summit of Green Mountain for himself. The fire lookout is still missing, but the views are not. 360 degrees of the Cascades, with Baker and Glacier prominent in opposite directions.

As a little reward and energy boost, I like to pack a refreshing, artificially sweetened can of citrusy, liquid caffeine in my pack to enjoy at the trail's end. I thought it was especially fitting today to drink green Mountain Dew on Green Mountain. It would have been perfect if I had started my hike earlier, so that I could drink green Mountain Dew on Green Mountain's dew.

This highly recommended trail is eight miles roundtrip, climbing 3000' feet to the 6500' summit. A 26 mile forest road needs to be driven to reach the trailhead. The 52 roundtrip miles of bumping and josteling around finally did in my Pathfinder's shocks, which needed to be replaced when I got back home.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/green_mountain_1.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/green_mountain_1.html hikes Sat, 08 Jul 2006 11:08:59 -0800 Anacapa CHANNEL ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, CA :: Anacapa, the smallest of the Channel Islands, is located fourteen miles from the Californian coast. We boarded a catamaran at Ventura Harbor and enjoyed the hour-long crossing. Our eyes were peeled for blue whales and dolphins as we approached the edge of the Pacific Shelf, where the continent plunges hundreds of feet into the deep ocean. Much to Kristie's delight, a pod of about 30 dolphins greeted us right before we reached the island. They swam remarkably fast around the boat, breaching, clicking, and playing in the bow wave and wake.

On the island we immediately parted from the ranger-guided tour and explored the couple miles of trail on our own. The island has a just a few park service buildings and a lighthouse at its highest point. There are no other facilities, and not a single tree obstructs the surrounding sea and sky.

In addition to the spectacular views, we found thousands of seagulls on Anacapa. This is their brooding ground, and we arrived while the chicks were still much too young to fly. As we hiked the loop and I was away photographing something, several of the gulls would attack Kristie, hovering directly above her and squawking loudly. It was pretty funny! Merely raising a hand frightens them away.

Our ride back two hours later on a single-hulled boat was uneventful, but very pleasant. We claimed the very front for ourselves, bracing against the waves and the breeze, on watch again for whales and dolphins. Upon crossing the shelf, the water got choppier and we fled behind the cabin to avoid the splashing. It was an absolutely gorgeous day, and being on a boat back from an island visit was a wonderful way to enjoy it.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/anacapa.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/anacapa.html hikes Tue, 04 Jul 2006 11:16:10 -0800 San Diego Zoo SAN DIEGO ZOO, SAN DIEGO, CA :: We missed the off-ramp exit for the San Diego Zoo and drove within a mile and of half of the Mexican border. A quick u-turn put us back on track, although I think I would have enjoyed a little time in Tijuana.

The San Diego Zoo is huge! I don't know how we missed it. We only saw a small percentage of the animals, which was just fine, because the place got packed with crying kids and strollers. We were there primarily to see the pandas and koalas.

The three panda bears are isolated in a shady, quiet area. The amount of people allowed to see them is controlled. Fortunately, we were there early enough to avoid the long line that formed after us. The pandas were amazing to see, although they were sleeping nearly the entire time. I think they may be the cutest creatures on the planet, second only to Kristie.

Among the other highlights were the polar bears, a grizzly bear and a bunch of koala bears. It might have been a bear-themed day, only panda bears aren't really bears, and koala bears, of course, are marsupials. Like the pandas, the koalas were all sleeping. They do this for 16-23 hours a day!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/san_diego_zoo.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/san_diego_zoo.html travel Mon, 03 Jul 2006 11:37:00 -0800 Third Street Promenade SANTA MONICA, CA :: Kristie and I strolled through Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade a couple times during our week in California. It's a pedestrian-only avenue spanning several blocks, filled with tourists and buskers. A variety of shops and restaurants line the streets, including Kidrobot and Barney's Beanery.

Kidrobot is an adult toy store, but not that kind of adult toy store. The small shop is filled with cute and/or scary figurines, some of which were pretty pricey. I looked for a Domokun doll, but didn't find any. Puzzle Zoo is another neat toy store on Third Street, with a much larger inventory and many more collectible figurines, including original Star Wars toys and Lord of the Ring sculptures, but again to my disappointment, no Domokuns in sight.

For dinner, we loved Barney's Beanery. It's just a fun place to hang out with an overwhelming large menu and all sorts of Californian memorabilia covering the walls, ceilings and tables. There are dozens of monitors of all different sizes tuned to different sport events. On our second day there, we caught the final minutes of the World Cup quarter-final match between Germany and Italy. The entire restaurant erupted when during stoppage time, Italy scored the only two goals of the entire game in just as many minutes.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/third_street_pr.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/third_street_pr.html travel Sun, 02 Jul 2006 12:47:52 -0800 The Getty Center LOS ANGELES, CA :: Today we enjoyed an exploration of The Getty Center, a billion dollar museum designed by Richard Meier. The white monuments are a modernist version of the ancient acropolis, perched upon a high hill overlooking Los Angeles. As we walked through the galleries and outdoor spaces, we could certainly appreciate the spirit of humanity's limitless creativity and civil accomplishments. It is a beautiful place in so many different ways.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/the_getty_cente.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/the_getty_cente.html travel Sun, 02 Jul 2006 11:45:09 -0800 Mt. Baldy ANGELES NATIONAL FOREST, CA :: There are two ways to reach the 10,064' summit of Mt. Baldy. You can suffer over a long 13.6 mile loop that climbs 3500' in elevation, or you can take a ski lift up to the restaurant at Baldy Notch and hike a 6.4 mile loop that climbs a much easier 2200' in elevation. Of course, I chose the second option.

The lift is only open on Saturdays and Sundays, and the trip up and down costs $18. From there, it's a very steep climb up 800' to the top of the Turkey Chute and the start of the Devil's Backbone trail. This part of the trail traces a thin ridge and along some pretty precipitous slopes that made me a little dizzy at times. Several gnarled trees are witnesses to the fierce winds and thunderstorms that occur up here.

Nearly at the top, I encountered a guy on his second ascent in the same day (and using the 13.6 mile trail)! He was training for an ultra, but his leg muscles had cramped up and he was concerned about his electrolytes. When asked, I told him I didn't have any salt pills or sports drinks. I offered him a Clif bar I had in my pack, but since it was all I had, he declined. He was able to stretch out the cramps and together we ascented and we talked for a while about his insane sport.

As the mountain's name suggests, the summit area is wide and bald. There were a few rings of rock built to shelter campers from the wind, but the weather was perfect today. Views all around, but the smog and nonprominent summit made it less than ideal. Still, it was only my second time above 10,000 feet and I thoroughly enjoyed the feeling of being on top of the world. Back at the restaurant, I also thoroughly enjoyed the best tasting hot roast beef sandwich with cheese and grilled onions on rye. Yum!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/mt_baldy.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/07/mt_baldy.html hikes Sat, 01 Jul 2006 11:43:44 -0800 Devil's Chair DEVIL'S PUNCHBOWL NATURE CENTER, CA :: The Devil's Punchbowl is a curious area of geology, consisting of large slabs of rock that seemed to have toppled over each other like dominoes which were then swirled around and fractured by the shifting tectonic plates of the Punchbowl fault. The long trail to Devil's Chair leads to a precipiced vantage point overlooking this tortured landscape. Unfortunately, the photos I took on this hike do not do it any justice.

The trail starts at the Devil's Punchbowl interpretive center, where a mile-long loop descends into the Punchbowl and back out. From there, it's seven miles to the Chair and back on an arid trail that passes through some nice stands of ponderosa and around cactus speckled hillsides, gaining 1200' in elevation. I thought it was a great trip, and I really enjoyed the desert/alpine feel of the area, which resembles the Teanaway region in Eastern Washington. At Devil's Chair, sturdy rails protect hikers from the loose, steep slopes and narrow paths that drop on both sides deep into the canyon.

I wish I had scheduled this hike earlier or later in the day. The sun shining from directly above shortened the shadows and reduced the dimensionality of the layered rocks. Perhaps others knew better than me, as this was my third hike in a row without anyone else on the trail.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/devils_chair.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/devils_chair.html hikes Fri, 30 Jun 2006 11:42:06 -0800 Ryan Mountain JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK, CA :: After my hike in Ladder Canyon, I drove through the south entrance of nearby Joshua Tree National Park. Honestly, there's not much to see in the southern half of the park. There's the cholla cactus garden, where I walked the interpretive trail (when photographing cacti with a wide angle lens, be careful not to jam your hands into its needles), but the northern half of the park is where you'll find the Joshua trees and fascinating rock formations.

Here again I found myself entirely alone at the trailhead for Ryan Mountain. I think the summer heat keeps most SoCal residents away from the trails. Either that, or they're all at the beach. Prime hiking season in the Desert Southwest is nearly opposite of the Pacific Northwest.

The trail to the 5,457' summit is short and steep, climbing over 1000' and back down in three miles. At the top, there are 360 degree views of the surrounding peaks and seemingly endless Mojave Desert. Thousands of Joshua trees dot the landscape and scattered rock formations appear like large fortresses rising above the level plains. Large puffy clouds made their way slowly across the intensely blue sky. It was a very nice place to spend an hour, enjoying the scenery and relaxing in the sun.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/ryan_mountain.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/ryan_mountain.html hikes Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:25:06 -0800 Ladder Canyon MECCA HILLS WILDERNESS, MECCA, CA :: As Kristie attended a conference for education consultants at Claremont McKenna College, I was enjoying several hikes in the Southern Californian wilderness. The first trail on my list was a four mile loop through Ladder and Painted Canyons, situated along the San Andreas Fault between Joshua Tree National Park and the Salton Sea.

I arrived at the trailhead early and the temperatures were rising quickly. It would be 100 degrees by noon. I wasn't too concerned about the heat, as I had plenty of bottles of water and the shade in the deep canyon would provide some relief. My biggest scare came from the soft, sandy road to the trailhead. A five mile path of compacted dry wash led to the trail. At about three miles into the road, I decided to park the rented Chevy Trailblazer on the shoulder to get a photo of the surrounding rock formations. Big mistake. I felt the wheels sink into the fine sand. I tried driving out, but the back wheels only spun, sinking further and burning through the rubber. Crap. I then realized I didn't have four-wheel drive. Trail-blazer, right. I was stuck in a glorified minivan.

Rocking back and forth for about five minutes (and trashing the transmission in the process) finally did the trick. I focused on staying on the road and maintaining momentum the rest of the way. Heed the warning signs and don't stop until you reach the parking area! And make sure that SUV you rent actually has some "utility."

The trail itself was wonderful! The slots got quite narrow, no wider than a few feet in many places. I loved the way the light played across the layered walls, curving and twisting like stretches of pink taffy, or silly putty. Several ladders are located to help climb the dry falls. As the trail slowly meanders up out of Ladder Canyon, there are cacti and views of the Salton Sea from a ridgetop before the trail turns back to complete the loop through Painted Canyon. I spent a few hours here and was alone the entire time.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/ladder_canyon.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/ladder_canyon.html hikes Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:36:49 -0800 Mt. Dickerman MT. BAKER-SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I kicked off the summer by renewing my Golden Eagle pass and bagging my third summit of Mt. Dickerman. I hadn't been on a hike in four months and I wasn't sure how well my legs would carry me up 3900' and over 8.6 miles. Fortunately, the ascent is gentle during the first three miles of this popular trail.

The going was a little tougher on the final mile, still under a considerable amount of snow. Each step was a sink, slip, and stick. A few times it was just a deep sink. I followed tracks leading directly up steep slopes that cut across many switchbacks, finally making it to the top in about 2.5 hours. Trudging through the snow added to my time, but it felt great on this 85 degree day and the long glissades back down were very fun.

The 360 degree views from the top are rewarding. Baker, Glacier and a little bit of Rainier can be seen, along with most of the peaks along the Mountain Loop Highway. The impressive north face of Big Four looms over the trail for most of the hike.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/mt_dickerman.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/mt_dickerman.html hikes Sat, 24 Jun 2006 11:10:16 -0800 Sips at Solstice ISSAQUAH, WA :: Education Access Network hosted a wine-tasting event this evening to raise funds and increase awareness for the non-profit organization. EAN provides low-cost, high quality courses to prepare students for success in higher education. Since being founded nearly five years ago, Education Access Network has improved academic opportunities for hundreds of low-income students from more than 20 schools.

Since 2001, Kristie has helped to shape and grow EAN, together with the organization's dedicated founder, Linda Coleman, and the dozens of other hard-working volunteers. I do what I can by designing and updating the website and other collateral materials.

Tonight was a chance to celebrate EAN's success by enjoying great food (provided by Brown's Catering) and a tasting tour of wines from around the world. The event was also an opportunity for me to finally perfect the pronunciation of sommelier. Our sommelier, David LeClaire, was a remarkably entertaining and informative host for the evening. It was a great time! Please check out EAN and let us know if you would like to be invited to next year's Sips at Solstice event!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/sips_at_solstic.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/sips_at_solstic.html events Sat, 17 Jun 2006 11:11:33 -0800 Kristie English, M.Ed. UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON, SEATTLE, WA :: About four years ago, Kristie decided her initial career choice in human resources and corporate training wasn't making her happy. She discovered her real passion was in education and cognitive development.

Her shelves began to fill rapidly with books on brain research, and she volunteered much of her time at Education Access Network and Washington Business Week. Later, she enrolled in a series of neuropsychology courses at the UW and fell in love again with being on a university campus. She took the GRE and earned early admittance in the UW's Graduate College of Education. Today, Kristie partook in the commencement ceremony and earned her Master's degree in Special Education!

During the course of her two-year program, she managed to work at the university's office of academic advising, volunteered her precious time at educational organizations, started up a successful insurance agency with her mom, pulled off a 3.97 GPA, and continued to spoil me with her love! What a woman!!! I'm so proud of her! Congratulations, Cutie!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/kristies_uw_gra.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/kristies_uw_gra.html events Sat, 10 Jun 2006 11:34:19 -0800 Washington, D.C. WASHINGTON, D.C. :: From New York City, it's a four hour drive and nearly $20 in toll fees to Washington, D.C. A co-worker and I were visiting the headquarters of a very well known relief organization, just a couple blocks from the White House. After the first day of our presentations, we enjoyed some drinks, dinner and conversation at Clyde's in Chinatown, and then had enough time to stroll up and down the Mall for some photos. After the second day in D.C., I was on the road again for a six hour drive to Bluefield, WV, to spend a couple of days at a call center for a major satellite television company, and then a few more hours to Charlotte, NC for my flight back home. It was a fun trip, but much too long to be away from Kristie.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/washington_dc.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/washington_dc.html travel Mon, 05 Jun 2006 11:09:20 -0800 Museum of Natural History NEW YORK CITY, NY :: What a fascinating place! The American Museum of Natural History displays some of the most breathtaking wonders of our world, including a full scale model of a blue whale, impressive reconstructions of dinosaur fossils, interactive presentations of our planet's dynamic geology, and the largest meteorite ever discovered. I could have easily spent an entire day or two here, reading through all the exhibits and enjoying the incredible dioramas. However, I only had a few hours, so I was zipping through the four levels of the museum, seeing as much as I could see, spending most of my time in the dinosaur and space areas. I also caught a space show in the new planetarium... well, part of it. By this time I was so exhausted, the voice of Robert Redford and visions of dancing space objects lulled me to sleep almost immediately. Perhaps the best nap ever! After a few zzz's, I was re-invigorated and continued my tour of NYC.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/american_museum.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/american_museum.html travel Sun, 04 Jun 2006 12:19:50 -0800 Central Park CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK CITY, NY :: I really enjoyed my walks through Central Park, even though it rained the entire time and I didn't have any idea where I was going. More than once, I tried crossing the park, and each time I ended up back where I began. I had no problem finding my way through the streets of Manhattan, but Central Park played tricks with my sense of direction. The surrounding skyscrapers are mostly hidden by the park's beautiful, old trees, leaving me no frame of reference. I soon gave up trying to find anything and resigned myself to happily wandering the miles of curving paths that branched between hills, traced waterways, climbed over and under bridges, shot straight through open squares, and led me from one picturesque site to the next.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/central_park.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/central_park.html travel Sun, 04 Jun 2006 11:47:58 -0800 New York, New York NEW YORK CITY, NY :: Lucky me, I was able to extend a business trip to visit The Big Apple for the very first time! I only had a couple days, so I studied my travel guides during my flight and carefully selected what I would be able to see and do. From JFK airport to Manhattan, it's a long subway ride, where I got a preview of NYC's diversity and vibrancy. People of all backgrounds, all incomes, and all nations packed into a relatively small space, living large, loud and fast.

From the subway station, I walked over to The Big Apple Hostel, which is just a couple blocks from the bright lights of Times Square. I had my own room and bath, and the price and location couldn't be beat. I highly recommend it if you don't plan on spending much time in your hotel room and want to save some bucks.

From the hostel, I strapped on my camera bag and immediately began my adventure, walking miles of sidewalk, as far as my legs could take me. The following photos are in the approximate order I took them. I also spent a lot of time getting lost in Central Park and exploring the exhibits at the American Museum of Natural History, each of which deserve their own entry.

I only got a small taste of The Big Apple, but I found it to be suprisingly clean, beautiful, and constantly buzzing with activity, with much to appreciate in its history and diversity. I had a great time and would love to go back again with Kristie, perhaps in Autumn when the leaves are changing, or in December when the city is decked out for the holidays.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/new_york_new_yo.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/06/new_york_new_yo.html travel Sat, 03 Jun 2006 11:20:06 -0800 The TSX EDMONDS, WA :: Check out Kristie's new ride!

Kristie replaced her Acura Integra with a sporty, new Acura TSX. It looks and drives great! The TSX has several features that will make Kristie's life much easier. She has nearly no navigational ability, so the large-screen GPS system is a huge benefit. The car also has Bluetooth for hands-free cell phone use. Both features will be very useful for her client visits and on-the-road calls.

Nearly everything in the car can be controlled by speaking a command. The voice recognition software has a vocabulary of 700 phrases, such as "driver temperature 68," "dial John," "lock doors," "radio station 2," or "find nearest parking garage." A pleasant sounding female voice confirms each request accurately and quickly.

It was fun learning how to use the car and taking it for a few spins over the Memorial Day weekend. We took these photos at nearby Yost Park.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/the_tsx.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/the_tsx.html misc Sat, 27 May 2006 11:58:24 -0800 Cirque du Soleil: Varekai MARYMOOR PARK, REDMOND, WA :: Kristie and I invited my parents to see Varekai, another amazing Cirque du Soleil show touring the world and making a stop at Redmond's Marymoor Park. The performances were breathtaking, the music was enchanting, and the clowns were hilarious! It was great to see Mom and Dad wide-eyed and grinning the entire time.

Watching a Cirque du Soleil show is like watching a dream. Everything is colorful and fanciful. The mesmerizing music and the unbelievable performances transport the audience to the edge of reality. At one point the Grand Chapiteau went pitch black, relit a few seconds later by hundreds of tiny glowbugs that danced through the air and surrounded us. We loved that moment and so many others! How often as an adult can you feel the kid-like joy and wonderment of a completely new and exhilarating experience?

Kristie and I can't wait to see another show!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/varekai.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/varekai.html shows Sun, 21 May 2006 11:18:18 -0800 Home EDMONDS, WA :: Will the renovating ever end? Probably not, but after nearly five weeks of working on the house, we think we deserve a small break. It has been a week since we moved in, and the new house is finally starting to feel like home. There are still floors to finish, walls to paint, cabinets to reface, and countless other details to work on - and that's just the interior. We have not yet even had the chance to think about the exterior and our yard (much to our new neighbors' chagrin).

The hard work is paying off, and we're very proud of what we've accomplished so far. We're also very, very grateful for the help we've had from family and friends. Many thanks to our parents and Joe for their tireless help and love, thanks to Justin and Jake for helping with the floors and the move, and sincere thanks to David for his heavy-lifting work and professional carpet installation - we love it!

I was hoping to chronicle the renovations in more detail, but I accidentally formatted a compact flash card full of photos from our first two weeks of work... Oh well, all was not lost... Have a look at how far we've come:
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/home.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/05/home.html projects Mon, 08 May 2006 11:59:31 -0800 Our First House EDMONDS, WA :: I apologize for the lack of posts lately, but I have a good excuse: Kristie and I have been very busy searching for our first house! After about 20 viewings, we finally chose a nice rambler in Edmonds built in 1979 with 3 bedrooms, 1.75 bathrooms, and a 2 car garage. The floor plan covers 1730 square feet and is situated on a fifth of an acre along a quiet street.

The pre-approval, purchase & sale agreement, inspection, appraisal, earnest money and insurance stresses are over. Now we're just waiting on the loan to go through. We're excited to close the deal and to begin work on making the house our home!

The inspection revealed the house is in great shape, but we want to make a few cosmetic changes before we move in. We'd like to re-floor with wood laminate, new carpet and tile. The entire interior will be repainted, and the exterior as soon as the weather is drier. Expect to see a lot of before & after photos from home improvement projects on the website from now on.

By the way, if you are looking for a real estate agent, please contact Michael Valiente at ZipRealty! He's super-friendly, knowledgable, honest and always returns our phone calls and emails. We tried two conventional agents, but the service Michael provided was far better than both. Plus, for choosing a ZipRealty agent, we'll receive more than $2000 as a rebate after closing!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/03/our_first_house.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/03/our_first_house.html events Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:58:52 -0800 Drops FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie has been encouraging me to shoot more still life and abstract photography. As with the Smoke Tendrils, this is a very simple subject that the camera tranforms into a surprisingly interesting series. The images are composed of water drops on a mirror reflecting colored posterboard. The secret is to treat the mirror surface with Rain-X to encourage nice, round drops. The idea originated from another photo on chromasia.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/drops.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/drops.html projects Sun, 26 Feb 2006 11:18:59 -0800 Cannon Beach CANNON BEACH, OR :: Kristie and I spent a wonderful weekend at Cannon Beach. We stayed at the Hallmark Resort in a cozy, firelit room with a private deck overlooking the beach and haystack. It was perfect for a relaxing and romantic getaway.

The weather was gorgeous on Saturday and Sunday, although a bit chilly. We donned our sweaters and gloves to enjoy the ocean, the small shops, restaurants, and hikes up to Ecola State Park and Tolovana Park - all in the sunshine! Rain drops started to fall on our windshield at the exact moment we started up the Pathfinder to head back to Seattle on Monday. The timing couldn't have been better!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/cannon_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/cannon_beach.html travel Sun, 19 Feb 2006 11:49:19 -0800 Valentine's Day FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I celebrated our 5th Valentine's Day with a date at the Laugh Lovers Ball: "An Evening of Sophisticated Silliness" in the Paramount Theater. Four standup comics and three sketch comedy groups had us laughing throughout the night. Our favorite local comedian, David Crowe, organizes the event every year. It was great, and chances are we'll be there again next Valentine's Day.

Coincidentally, we saw David and Maggie sitting just across the aisle from us. It was nice to catch up with the soon-to-be-expatriates. They're counting down the days before they head overseas to live and work in Holland.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/valentines_day.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/valentines_day.html events Tue, 14 Feb 2006 11:28:17 -0800 Lower Gray Wolf River OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: My first overnight backpacking trip was seven years ago on the Gray Wolf River. Until today, I had never been back. It's too bad it has taken me so long to return, because it's a great trail. The river is beautiful and a thick carpet of moss covers everything.

Slides have forced a relocation of the trailhead on Forest Service Road #2870. From there, the trail continues for over 20 miles, eventually connecting with other trails inside Olympic National Park. Unfortunately, another slide swept away the bridge at the four mile point, and it has yet to be replaced. I could see the remnants of the bridge on the other side of the river. A couple other entry points allow access to the rest of the Gray Wolf.

I was all by myself on the trail today. Even in winter, that's a rare treat on a sunny Saturday in the Northwest. The recent storms left a couple dozen blowdowns scattered along the trail. Most were easy to hop over or slide under, but at one spot several trees had fallen together, creating a long wall that needed to be circled. The entire trail was covered with broken branches and green needles.

According to the Forest Service, it's eight miles to the broken bridge and back. The trail climbs up and down often, totalling 1000' in elevation gain on the way in and again on the way out.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/lower_gray_wolf.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/lower_gray_wolf.html hikes Sat, 11 Feb 2006 11:36:21 -0800 Smoke Tendrils FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: It's amazing what you can do with a couple sticks of incense and a few lights! You're looking at photos of smoke tendrils, colored with a blueish bulb and two bright spotlights. This was a fun project, inspired by photos on c h r o m a s i a and Sensitive Light.

It took a while to get the setup just right. I used a black piece of posterboard for the background and aimed the lights onto the smoke from either side, being careful not to brighten the rest of the room. It was a very dim scene, but I managed to freeze the smoke at 1/200 secs at f/2.0 with the 50mm lens. The ISO was set at 100 to minimize noise in the dark areas. I tried using the flash, but firing it from the front washed out the details. An off-camera shoe cord would have been handy.

I'm pleased with the way the images turned out. Watching the bright smoke twirl in the viewfinder was a treat, and I must have fired a few hundred shots to get these select photos. In them, I see alien creatures, strange plants, a ghostly dagger and icy nebulas. What do you see?
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/smoke_tendrils.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/02/smoke_tendrils.html projects Thu, 09 Feb 2006 11:58:33 -0800 Spicy Vegan Chili FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: I make this chili for Kristie about once a month. It's her absolute favorite recipe. Despite being vegan, the chili is thick, hearty, spicy and very delicious. It's very easy to make and doesn't need to be stewed for hours like a conventional chili. The peppers and corn remain sweet and crunchy, but the soft beans and savory brown rice serve to balance a perfect mouthful of tastes and textures. Even to a carnivore such as myself, it is dangerously yummy. The regulating factor is the chili's spicy hot kick. Don't say I didn't warn you!

SPICY VEGAN CHILI RECIPE
This recipe makes about 14 cup-size servings.

2 cans of black beans (15 oz cans) 4 bell peppers
2 cans of kidney beans (15 oz cans) 3 medium onions
2 cans of diced green chiles (7 oz cans) 6 cloves of garlic
1 large can of diced tomatoes (28 oz can) 1 cup of chili powder
1 small bag of frozen yellow corn (16 oz) 4 tablespoons of cumin powder
1 large can of tomato paste (12 oz can) 4 tablespoons of coarse black pepper
2 cups of brown rice (measured dry) 1 tablespoon of red pepper flakes
2 cubes of vegetable bullion 1 tablespoon of Johnny's seasoning or salt
3 tablespoons of vegetable oil  

Directions:
1.  Cook the brown rice. Add the two cubes of vegetable bullion to the water to allow the rice to absorb the flavors.
2. Dice the bell peppers and add to a very large pot with the frozen yellow corn.
3. Dice the onions and saute over medium-high heat with two tablespoons of vegetable oil until soft and carmelized. About 8 minutes. Add the sauteed onions to the pot with the diced bell peppers and corn.
4. Peel and press the garlic and saute with a tablespoon of vegetable oil for just a minute. Add to the pot.
5. Add the diced chiles to the pot. Do not drain the cans of chiles.
6. Thoroughly drain the can of diced tomatoes and add with tomato paste to the pot.
7. Transfer the pot to the stove over medium heat. Stir in all of the spices.
8. When the brown rice has finished cooking, add it to the pot.
9. Thoroughly drain the cans of beans and add to pot. Stir completely and continue heating chili until just warm enough to eat. Do not overcook. This chili is much better when the peppers remain crunchy.
The leftovers can be kept in airtight containers in the refrigerator for a couple weeks.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/spicy_vegan_chi.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/spicy_vegan_chi.html projects Fri, 27 Jan 2006 11:07:09 -0800 Rialto Beach OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: I used some vacation time to enjoy my last two days as a twenty-something. The weather forecast predicted a strong possibility of sunshine, so I hoped for the best and headed towards the Olympic Coast. Unfortunately, the weatherman lied and my entire beach hike was socked in by fog and mist, but I tried to make the best of it.

Most of the photos I shot on that day were nearly colorless already, so I decided to experiment with Photoshop's channel mixer to create these black and white images.

Rialto Beach is beautiful, no matter the weather. It's an easy 1.5 miles to the famous Hole in the Wall, but it can only be entered during low tide. At high tide, a headland trail climbs over the rock, offering nice views at the top and a way to reach the other side. There are several picturesque sea stacks to enjoy and some wildlife as well. I saw several bald eagles, deer, and sadly, a beached baby whale.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/rialto_beach.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/rialto_beach.html hikes Mon, 23 Jan 2006 11:30:21 -0800 100th Post FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: To mark the 100th entry on johnandkristie.com, I thought I'd share a few statistics. Since June 2004, over 1100 photos have been posted and more than 26,000 words have been written to chronicle the wonderful life Kristie and I enjoy together. We love being able to look through the website and sharing it with our family and friends. Everyone should have an online photo album!

Nearly 60,000 visitor sessions have been recorded during this time, and the website now averages about 120 visits a day. We have received dozens of kind messages from strangers all over the world. Keep them coming! Whether you're seeking more information on a particular camping spot, tips for taking photos at a concert, where to find vegan egg replacements, or just saying "hi," we enjoy receiving and replying to every message.

I finally enabled the comment system. We hope that will encourage you to share your expertise on post topics. A new counter represents the popularity of posts relative to each other. The ten most popular posts have been: Perfect Vegan Sugar Cookies, The Centipede, Free iPod, Three Fingers, Mt. Pilchuck, Bamboo Fountain, XBOX Mod, Dragonfly Mosaic, Panda Cake and New Years Eve.

Most visitors find the website from Yahoo, MSN and Google. The top non-search engine referrals have been from www.nwhikers.net, www.photoblogs.org, www.elise.com, www.arcadecontrols.com, www.slashfood.com, www.wideangle.ca, www.intherain.org, www.seattlest.com, www.fredmiranda.com and www.seattlecasbah.com. All are great websites, well worth a visit!

2006 is going to be an exciting year for us, and we have many posts to backfill from 2002 and 2003. We hope you'll stay tuned!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/100th_post.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/100th_post.html projects Sun, 22 Jan 2006 11:33:37 -0800 John's 30th Birthday FREMONT CLASSIC PIZZERIA & TRATTORIA, SEATTLE, WA :: Today I celebrated my 30th birthday with friends, most of whom I have known since middle school. They were kind enough to sacrifice their Saturday evening to join Kristie and I for a nice dinner. Thank you for your presence (and presents!). I had a great time and look forward to the many more decades we'll share together.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/johns_30th_birt.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/johns_30th_birt.html events Sat, 21 Jan 2006 11:16:33 -0800 Marymere Falls OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: After my snowshoe trip atop Hurricane Hill, I drove west to nearby Lake Crescent to check out Marymere Falls. The trail starts at the Storm King ranger station, wandering less than two miles roundtrip through a mossy, old-growth forest. If you're in the area, it is definitely worth the short hike to see and enjoy this splendid 90' waterfall.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/marymere_falls.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/marymere_falls.html hikes Sun, 15 Jan 2006 12:26:39 -0800 Hurricane Hill OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA :: After 27 straight days of rain in Seattle, the sun finally broke through the clouds on Sunday. I seized the opportunity to enjoy a day outdoors, returning to the Olympic Peninsula again to snowshoe Hurricane Hill.

Unfortunately, I arrived at the Heart of the Hills gate a little too early. At 9:00 AM the road up to the Hurricane Ridge visitor center was still being plowed and sanded. I was listening to an audio book, so I didn't mind the wait. The AM radio update announced the gate would be open at 10:00, at which time I led a train of about twenty cars 17 miles up a twisty and scenic road.

I bundled up at the visitor center, registered and headed out. It was 27 degrees and windy. At the time, the trail was in a bank of thick fog and cloud. There wasn't much to see on my way up except for the beautifully flocked trees, completely encased in snow and ice, and the cornices rippling along the ridge. I followed a group of skiers, and later, just their tracks as they accelerated away from me. Near the summit of Hurricane Hill, I caught up with them again. I asked the way to the top, and they pointed into an opaque wall of fog. Okay, thanks.

I trudged along, continueing the climb upwards along a ridge. The wind was fierce and only at brief intervals could I see the summit. It wasn't much further away, but I decided to stop and head back down. I no longer knew if I was walking on a cornice or not, and I couldn't see any tracks to guide me. Besides, there weren't going to be any views today.

Or so I thought. After I passed the skiers again, having lunch underneath some trees, the sun started to make an appearance. Patches of deep blue sky grew larger and larger, and I cursed myself for not being more patient. A steady stream of snowshoers and skiers were now making their way to the top. It was difficult at times to pass each other along the narrow tracks, precariously slanted against a steep slope.

Roundtrip, it's about six miles to the top of Hurricane Hill, gaining 800 feet in, and about 250 back out. The first 1.5 miles descends down a summer road and is quite nice and easy. After that, however, the climb along the trail begins and at times the steepness and cornices can be hazardous.

It was a great day in the mountains. The clouds parted from the peak of Mt. Angeles just long enough for me to snap a few shots. I imagine on a clear day, the views of the surrounding Olympics must be stunning.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/hurricane_hill.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/hurricane_hill.html hikes Sun, 15 Jan 2006 11:12:17 -0800 Dungeness Spit DUNGENESS NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, SEQUIM, WA :: Kristie and I had an amazing day hiking Dungeness Spit, reputedly the world's longest at five miles. It is located near Sequim, the state's driest spot. We could actually see the Olympic rain shadow stretch behind the mountains: a pocket of clear sky surrounded by less inviting weather.

At the end of the spit is a charming lighthouse, occupied by volunteers that stay a week and provide tours for visitors. Today, we were guided by two young brothers, no older than 12, enjoying a quiet weekend with their dad.

Along the way, we saw an incredible variety of wildlife: snowy owls, bald eagles, harbor seals, gulls, ducks, geese, little baby sandpipers, black brants, hawks and deer. My camera's shutter was firing away nonstop, and I am quite pleased with the results!

We hiked the 10 miles and toured the lighthouse in just under five hours. High tide was at its peak as we started, and at times, the spit was quite narrow. We highly recommend this unforgettable hike, but consult a tide table before you go!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/dungeness_spit.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2006/01/dungeness_spit.html hikes Sun, 08 Jan 2006 11:47:38 -0800 Oyster Dome BLANCHARD MOUNTAIN, WA :: The first half of this trail was quite nice. It was dry and climbed gradually through a brilliant, green forest offering occasional views of the San Juan Islands. The second half, however, wasn't so nice. The trail became steep and muddy. I missed a turn and wandered into the "bat caves," a network of tunnels and caverns underneath a pile of gigantic boulders. The rocks were slick, and I didn't want to risk falling into a dark cavern with a broken leg, so I backtracked, ready to admit defeat and return home. Then I caught sight of the main trail, heading straight up a staircase of roots and rocks alongside a cascading creek. Up I went.

A pair of hikers assured me I was on track. I asked them whether it was worth it. They said yes and that I was almost there. They also warned it was extremely cold at the top. I could hear the wind whipping through the trees now, and the sound of branches creaking and cracking.

On a nicer day, the view from Oyster Dome would be incredible. Through the cold greyness, I tried to visualize the San Juans as a verdant archipelago on the horizon, surrounded by the sparkling waters of Puget Sound reflecting a warm sun and a deep blue sky. I tried to imagine the Skagit Flats with a colorful patchwork of tulips in bloom. I tried to picture a better scene, but the wind was fierce and freezing. I had to put on some extra clothes and my gloves. Then it started to rain.

Roundtrip, this hike is reportedly six miles, although I would wager it's closer to seven or eight. It climbs 2000', very steeply at times. The trail is part of the Pacific Northwest Trail, a route that starts at the Continental Divide and ends on a beach on the Olympic Peninsula.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/oyster_dome.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/oyster_dome.html hikes Thu, 29 Dec 2005 11:45:15 -0800 Skagit River Eagles ROCKPORT, WA :: I was on my way up North to find the Oyster Dome trail, but decided to drive east on SR-20 before the hike to check out the eagles gathering along the Skagit River. Each winter, hundreds of eagles from as far away as Alaska converge in this area to feast on spawning salmon.

Mile post 100 is a popular location for eagle watchers. There is a roadside parking lot there, and several people were looking across the river with their binoculars, scopes and super-telephoto lenses. I immediately spotted several eagles on the opposite shore and started shooting. I stayed for about an hour at this spot and a couple other locations along the road, taking about a hundred photos. These were the best. While I don't think I'll be receiving a call from the Audubon Society or National Geographic any time soon, I think I did a fair job for my first try at wild bird photography. It was fun watching the eagles, and I learned a few new things about my camera.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/skagit_river_ea.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/skagit_river_ea.html misc Thu, 29 Dec 2005 10:57:27 -0800 Canon Rebel XT FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Here are my new toys! My loving girlfriend got me the Canon Rebel XT Digital SLR camera along with the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens. The wide angle view from this lens is amazing! No more stitching together panoramas. To round out my kit, I also picked up the new EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM and the EF 50mm f/1.4 USM. The 50mm prime is super-sharp and loves low light. The 70-300mm has quite a bit of reach, renders detail as well as the best telephotos, and includes image stabilization.

I think it's the perfect kit to enter into digital SLR photography and a nice upgrade from my Canon G3, which I think I often pushed to its limits. Now it's time to quit talking, and start shooting! As I told Kristie, with this new camera, I have nothing and no one to blame except for myself if I take a bad photo!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/canon_rebel_xt.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/canon_rebel_xt.html misc Mon, 26 Dec 2005 11:02:10 -0800 Christmas FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I had an incredible Christmas this year! We added several new ornaments to the tree and spent a lot of time with our families. We feel very fortunate to have so many wonderful people in our lives.

Many yummy treats were consumed, many laughs were shared, and many gifts were given and received. I must have been a very good boy this year, because Kristie got me a brand new camera with an amazing ultra-wide lens! I can't wait to use it on my hikes!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/christmas_1.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/christmas_1.html events Sun, 25 Dec 2005 11:27:25 -0800 Mazama Ridge MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA :: Today I led Kristie, her brother, and her dad on a beautiful snowshoe hike up Mazama Ridge. Our route was nearly five miles roundtrip, descending a couple hundred feet into Paradise Valley and back up 900' to the top of the ridge. Mt. Rainier loomed majestically above us, surrounded by clear, deep blue skies.

As we pulled into the parking lot, the thermometer in the Pathfinder's console displayed 19 degrees, but it felt much colder as we stepped out into a fierce wind. Powdered ice crystals were swept from dry snow banks, stinging our exposed skin. We got bundled up and headed out. Thankfully the wind was mostly absent inside the valley. We could see billows of snow blowing off of the peaks around us. On the ridge, we watched streams of glittery powder race across the snowscape, whirling over dunes and around trees.

Unfortunately, Kristie's dad had to turn back at the bottom of the valley. He wasn't able to make it up to the ridge today. Washington's alpine winter was just too much for someone acclimated to Southern California. I think snowshoes with serrated steel soles are as far away as you can get from sandals worn on warm, sandy beaches. He encouraged us to continue on without him.

For the most part we felt alone out there, and we found a lot of unbroken snow to romp around in. We made it back to Kristie's sleeping dad right as the sun was setting, concluding a fun day in a winter wonderland!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/mazama_ridge.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/mazama_ridge.html hikes Sat, 17 Dec 2005 11:50:53 -0800 2005 Photo Album FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Several months ago, one of Kristie's former coworkers showed her a professional-looking photo book he had made with iPhoto. Ever since then, Kristie has wanted her own album with our photos in it. Unfortunately, iPhoto is only available to Mac users, and I could not find a PC-compatible service that matched iPhoto's quality. Then I discovered MyPublisher.

I learned MyPublisher is the company that prints iPhoto's photo books. For PC users, they provide a simple application you can download from their website for free. The program lets you compose your pages offline, and then upload them when you are ready to buy. It was a lot of work, but we managed to fill up 100 pages with 366 photos from 2005.

MyPublisher charges $1.50 a page, and then an additional $10 for a leather cover. If you're a Costco member, check out their website for a code that will save you 20%. Search the web for other coupons as well. We took advantage of a "Buy One Book, Get One Book for Free" promotion.

The books aren't cheap, but I think they're worth the price. We were very, very impressed with the quality of the binding, paper and photos. I didn't bother to match ICC profiles while processing the images, but the colors still turned out great. We ordered a few books to give as gifts this Christmas. Surprisingly, they were at our door just four days after ordering them! We will definitely use MyPublisher again to make additional photo books.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/2005_photo_book.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/2005_photo_book.html projects Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:03:41 -0800 Kanye West EVERETT EVENTS CENTER, EVERETT, WA :: Kanye West made a stop in Everett tonight and performed most of the tracks from his two highly acclaimed albums. Every song is exceptional, and so was the concert. All of the singers and musicians maintained an incredible level of energy throughout the sets, and we wondered how it was possible to do that night after night.

The "Touch the Sky Tour" isn't your typical hip hop show. There were creative variations in the staging, many wardrobe changes, funny and reverent interludes, a string section, graceful backup singers, and an excellent sound system. The diverse audience was on their feet and dancing the entire time.

About midway through the concert, Mr. West triumphantly asked the arena, "Are you not entertained?" Kristie and I joined the crowd to answer back with a deafening roar of approval! It was a GREAT show!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/kanye_west_conc.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/kanye_west_conc.html shows Sat, 10 Dec 2005 11:21:05 -0800 Lake Keechelus IRON HORSE STATE PARK, WA :: Kristie and I headed up to Snoqualmie Pass today to enjoy the snow. My legs were itching to go on a hike, and Kristie wanted a break from writing her final papers. Our original destination was Twin Lakes, but we couldn't find the trail. We had Dan Nelson's snowshoe book in hand, but it wasn't much help. First, it says to take a left from Exit 54 to get to the Hyak Sno-Park. You actually need to take a right from the freeway off-ramp, and then a left. We spent some time on the wrong side of the freeway until we figured it out.

Next, the book says to hike about .75 miles along the Iron Horse Trail to find the Twin Lakes trailhead. There was no trailhead. When we returned home, I checked my own maps and found the Cold Creek junction is at about twice that distance.

Last, the distance to the lake and back is nearly 7 miles roundtrip, instead of the 4 miles stated in the book. We weren't alone in our confusion. Another group on the Iron Horse trail was looking through the same book, and asked if we knew the way to Twin Lakes! Oh well. Lesson learned. I'll be sure to bring my own map next time.

Despite being unable to find Twin Lakes, we still had a pleasant hike along Lake Keechelus. The sun was out and the trees were laden with glittery snow. There were many skiers and snowshoers on the trail. A side route took us down to the lake, where we hiked in solitude between the stumps and enjoyed the scenery. It was a great day to be in the mountains!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/lake_keechelus.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/12/lake_keechelus.html hikes Sun, 04 Dec 2005 11:29:33 -0800 Rattlesnake Ledge MT. BAKER-SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: The trail to Rattlesnake Ledge is short and sweet, climbing about 1200' to a ledge overlooking the Snoqualmie Valley and Rattlesnake Lake. I hiked a little further beyond the ledge to a higher point where Mt. Si, Tenerife and Mailbox Peak are unmistakable across the valley. Between them are many other mountains whose names are unknown to me. They frame the mysterious Middle Fork. I haven't hiked that area too much. Something about that place is uninviting.

But the hike up Rattlesnake Ledge was very nice. The warm sunshine and blue sky was an invigorating escape from the thick layer of fog and smog that has been suffocating Seattle for the past two weeks. The trail is well maintained, and despite what many reports claim, it wasn't crowded at all. Setting the alarm clock a little earlier makes all the difference.

The trail to the point above the ledge and back is about 3.5 miles roundtrip. At the ledge, the trail continues and a sign indicates it's possible to hike another 9 miles, past a radio tower, to the gates of the old Snoqualmie Winery. If the short trail to the ledge doesn't satisfy, you can keep on hiking to your legs' content.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/11/rattlesnake_led.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/11/rattlesnake_led.html hikes Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:07:44 -0800 Perfect Vegan Sugar Cookies FREMONT, SEATTLE, WA :: Kristie and I baked these sugar cookies from scratch for Darren and Shannon's annual Harvest Party. We were surprised how well they turned out. The cookies were just hard enough to keep their shape, but soft when bitten. They tasted buttery and melted in your mouth. The icing was glossy, smooth and sweet. Like the cookies, the icing was just hard enough to allow stacking, but soft to bite. They were a hit at the party! And surprise, they were vegan! We just might have to make these again around Christmas time!

(Be sure to check out the Halloween Sugar Cookies we made with the same recipe!)

PERFECT VEGAN SUGAR COOKIE RECIPE
This makes about 36 cookies. We made two batches.

1 cup margarine 3 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder
2 whole egg replacements (Ener-G) 1/4 cup tofu cream cheese (Tofutti)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract  

Directions:
1.  In a large bowl, cream together the margarine and sugar. Stir in the egg replacements and vanilla. Gradually add the flour, baking powder and tofu cream cheese. You may have to use your hands at this point to finish the mixing. Form the dough into a long loaf and wrap in cellophane. Refrigerate for a couple hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease the cookie sheets or use a non-stick foil.
3. On a lightly floured surface (we taped down a sheet of non-stick foil to our countertop instead), roll out the dough to 1/4 inch thickness. Cut into desired shapes with cookie cutters. Place about 1 inch apart cookie on sheets.
4. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes in the preheated oven, until bottoms and edges just start to get light brown. Remove from baking sheet and cool on wire racks. Store in an airtight container.

PERFECT VEGAN ICING RECIPE
Each batch is enough to easily coat 24 cookies. We made four batches, one for each color.

2 cups confectioners' sugar 1/2 teaspoon of almond extract
6-8 teaspoons of soy milk (Silk Vanilla) Assorted food coloring
4 teaspoons of light corn syrup  

Directions:
1.  In medium bowl, stir together confectioners' sugar and soy milk until smooth. Beat in corn syrup and almond extract until icing is smooth and glossy. If icing is too thick, add more corn syrup.
2. Add food coloring to desired intensity. Dip cookies and allow to dry overnight.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/perfect_sugar_c.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/perfect_sugar_c.html projects Fri, 21 Oct 2005 11:12:50 -0800 Kristie's 30th Birthday ROCK BOTTOM RESTAURANT & BREWERY, SEATTLE, WA :: Thanks to everyone who joined us to celebrate Kristie's 30th Birthday! Kristie says it was her best birthday party ever! She was super happy to see all of you and we hope you had a great time!
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/kristies_30th_b.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/kristies_30th_b.html events Sat, 15 Oct 2005 11:59:40 -0800 Denny Creek MT. BAKER-SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I decided to head up to Lake Melakwa today via the Denny Creek trail. This trail is an old favorite that feels dramatically different depending on the time of year. During the summer, it's usually packed full of families. The waterslides are filled with people in bathing suits and the lake is ringed with tents. In the spring, I've seen amazing storms circulating in the creek valley. Despite the steady downpour of rain, I stood still to watch the tendrils of clouds dancing between the peaks. The winter brings serene solitude. The landscape is wrapped in a thick blanket of snow. The only sounds in the muffled forest are the creek and Keekwulee Falls.

Today I was able to see a few splashes of autumn color along the trail, and I only saw one other hiker on my way up to the lake. It's an easy and enjoyable hike, climbing 2400' over 9 miles.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/denny_creek_to.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/10/denny_creek_to.html hikes Sat, 08 Oct 2005 11:43:12 -0800 The Rohdenburgs WOODLAND PARK ZOO, SEATTLE, WA :: My favorite friends from Eastern Washington and their new daughter made a surprise visit during their annual pilgrimage to the furniture mecca: IKEA. Their Scandinavian shopping spree wasn't until the next day, so we met and spent some time catching up at the zoo. The animals were fun to see, but I took more interest in observing this new family unit and how one of my notorious college buddies had been transformed into a loving, caring and wise father.

Emily is very intelligent, calm, and cute! It was fascinating to watch a baby interact with her environment. You can almost see in her eyes the new synaptic connections being made in her rapidly growing brain. New sensations, definitions, concepts, relationships and talents being realized, seemingly minute-by-minute.

Jeremy and Tiffany made parenting look like fun, but I'm not entirely convinced. I think Kristie and I will test the waters with a couple kittens first.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/the_rohdenburgs.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/the_rohdenburgs.html misc Sat, 24 Sep 2005 11:24:33 -0800 Bumbershoot SEATTLE CENTER, SEATTLE, WA :: I arrived back into Seattle this afternoon and Kristie was at the airport to pick me up. After many hugs and kisses, we drove to the Seattle Center for the 35th Annual Bumbershoot Arts Festival. We were happy to be together again and looking forward to the Digable Planets show later in the evening.

In the meantime, we caught a hilarious stand-up comedy act and looked through the many arts and crafts exhibits. Kristie was happy to find vendors for Hawaiian shaved ice and grilled corn on the cob. I was busy chowing down on gyros and piroshkies. Mmmm!

Legendary reggae musicians, Clinton Fearon and his Boogie Brown Band, performed a groovy, love-filled set on the Bumbrella stage. Smiling people danced happily to the music, their dreadlocks swaying under the cannabis clouds. Finally, the Digable Planets took the stage, as their DJ played a sample from Peaches and Herb, "Reunited, and it feels so good..."

Kristie turned me on to their only two albums, "Blowout Comb" and "Reachin' (A New Refutation of Time and Space)." Most people only know them by their Grammy-winning hit, "Rebirth of Slick (Cool Like Dat)." Those albums are more than a decade old, but their jazzy beats and smart raps are still infinitely better than most hip hop heard on the radio today. The Digable Planets put on a great show, and they promised a new album will be out soon.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/bumbershoot.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/bumbershoot.html events Sat, 03 Sep 2005 11:10:17 -0800 Zion Campground SPRINGDALE, UT :: After a full day of hiking Bryce Canyon and Zion, I pulled into a commercial campground in Springdale, just a few miles outside of the Zion gates. I setup my tent in a nice site along the Virgin River and enjoyed a long, hot shower. Afterwards, I found a burrito place within walking distance. The photos of the MRE contents are what I had the night before in a Bryce Canyon campground. Tonight, I deserved something fresh and warm. I watched a fierce thunderstorm roll across the horizon as I enjoyed my meal.

Then the winds started to pick up and it became apparent the thunderstorm was slowly moving towards us. I ran back to my tent, knowing it wasn't staked down too well. Kids were screaming and I could hear things being blown across the campground. I was in my tent, spread eagle with my hands and feet in each corner to prevent the thing from flying away. Then the rain started, and shortly after, the interval between lightning flashes and thunder was non-existant.

For about thirty minutes I listened to the storm slowly move on, wondering if aluminum tent poles were conductive. My tent was probably the shortest in the campground, and I figured a lightning bolt would strike one of the multi-room tent mansions before me. Fortunately, the lightning bolts stayed in the hills. Afterwards, I only heard the river beside me and fell fast asleep. I was up before dawn for a drive to Las Vegas and a flight back home.
]]> http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/zion_campground.html http://www.johnandkristie.com/archives/2005/09/zion_campground.html hikes Fri, 02 Sep 2005 19:37:05 -0800