John & Kristietag:www.johnandkristie.com,2010-03-21://22010-07-30T20:16:01ZJohn Burton Brown & Kristie Renee English: Online Photo Album & Journal of Seattle, Edmonds & the Pacific NorthwestMovable Type Pro 5.01Bryce Canyontag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2902009-11-26T19:11:03Z2010-07-30T20:16:01ZSOUTHWEST FAMILY VACATION DAY 2 :: BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK, UT :: This Thanksgiving we spent some time with my parents, but not just for a large meal that my mom slaved over at her house. This year we planned...John
SOUTHWEST FAMILY VACATION DAY 2 :: BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK, UT :: This Thanksgiving we spent some time with my parents, but not just for a large meal that my mom slaved over at her house. This year we planned a six-day family trip to enjoy the natural wonders of Southwest Utah and the artificial wonders of Las Vegas. These are destinations my parents have never been to, and I was happy to play the part of the travel agent and tour guide.
Upon landing in Las Vegas the day before Thanksgiving, we drove immediately to Bryce Canyon National Park, which is about four hours away. We stayed at historic Ruby's Inn, conveniently located just outside the gates of the park. The hotel features every amenity you might need, including a very large gift/grocery store and a restaurant the serves very tasty, homestyle meals. Our rooms even included a hot tub (but we didn't use it). The plan was to settle in early so that we could depart for the Canyon an hour before sunrise the next day.
We had fabulous luck with the weather during our entire trip, but being at the cusp of winter and at 8000' feet elevation, it was extremely cold. Bundled in multiple layers of clothing, we waddled out of our rooms in pitch darkness at 6:00 AM, cringing at the thermometer that read 5 degrees. I promised it would all be worth it. And it most defintely was. The naturally orange walls of Bryce Canyon glow gorgeously in dawn's early light.
After enjoying the view from the canyon's rim, we chose to immerse ourselves in the otherworldly scene by descending into the Navajo, Queen's Garden, and Rim trails - a relatively easy and very scenic 3-mile loop. I was concerned about my mother's joints, however, which have been nagging her recently. The trail drops and climbs 550 feet, but she handled it like a champ - blazing forward and frequently insisting we hike further throughout the trip! The dry, desert air and the constant sunshine did wonders for her mobility and spirit. This really was the perfect escape from the Pacific Northwest's grey and gloomy winter weather.
The spectacle that is Bryce Canyon is hard to capture in words or photos. The dazzling colors, strange landforms and their immense scale are thrilling to experience. I had wandered through Bryce Canyon before, but I'm very glad I got to share it with Kristie and my parents. I was filled with warm fuzzy feelings whenever I saw their jaws drop in amazement, heard them exclaim a "Wow!", or simply smiled. That was the best part of this trip for me, and it'll be one of my favorite Thanksgivings ever!
I was also filled with a wonderful meal served back at Ruby's Inn! We loaded up on turkey, ham, mashed potatos, gravy, cornbread and pies before heading out to our next destination: Zion National Park. ]]>
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Narae 2009 Korean Festivaltag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2892009-11-07T19:08:21Z2010-07-30T19:12:16ZEDMONDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS, EDMONDS, WA :: Hye Ran and Rob invited us to another performance of "Narae" by the Morning Star Korean Cultural Center. The name of the annual production translates to "Wings" in English, and showcases traditional...John
EDMONDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS, EDMONDS, WA :: Hye Ran and Rob invited us to another performance of "Narae" by the Morning Star Korean Cultural Center. The name of the annual production translates to "Wings" in English, and showcases traditional Korean dance and music. We invited my parents to the show this time as well, knowing my mom (and dad) would appreciate a dose of her culture.
The program was mostly the same as it was two years ago, but that's not a complaint. The variety of performances were just as entertaining; at times thrilling, poetic, or cute, instilling pride and respect for traditional Korean culture. ]]>
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U2tag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2882009-10-25T18:04:58Z2010-07-27T05:16:42Z THE ROSE BOWL, PASADENA, CA :: Just the facts on U2's awesome Rose Bowl concert: Our hotel: Marriott Courtyard in Old Town Pasadena (an easy 15 minute walk to the Rose Bowl) Our seats: Two (RED) Zone VIP stage-side...John
THE ROSE BOWL, PASADENA, CA :: Just the facts on U2's awesome Rose Bowl concert:
Our hotel: Marriott Courtyard in Old Town Pasadena (an easy 15 minute walk to the Rose Bowl)
Our seats: Two (RED) Zone VIP stage-side tickets.
Sitting next to us: Danny Devito and Josh Homme, along with a couple LiveNation VPs.
Celebrities sighted: Hillary Swank, Demi Moore, Paris Hilton, Collin Farrell, Winona Ryder, and the guy who invented Napster.
Opening band: The Black Eyed Peas
Onstage surprise: Slash & Fergie performing "Sweet Child of Mine"
Nickname for U2's stage (the largest concert stage ever): The Claw or The Space Station
Stage statistics: 164' tall, 210' wide, 190 tons, 72 subwoofers, rotating centerstage, two moving bridges, expandable 360-degree screen with 500,000 pixels and a 14,000' surface area.
Number of people and days required to build and dismantle the stage: More than 250 crew over 8 days for a two-hour concert. There are three copies of the stage continuously being constructed/deconstructed in stadiums around the world.
Number of semi-trucks required to transport the stage: 120
Attendance for U2's Rose Bowl concert: 97,000 (record Rose Bowl crowd)
Viewers of U2's Rose Bowl concert via live YouTube stream: 10 million across 7 continents (YouTube's largest event to-date and first live concert broadcast)
Most distant performer during the concert: Astronaut Frank De Winne aboard the International Space Station sings a segment of "Your Blue Room"
Setlist: Breathe, Get On Your Boots, Magnificent, Mysterious Ways, Beautiful Day, I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For - Stand By Me, Stuck In A Moment, No Line On The Horizon, Elevation, In A Little While, Unknown Caller, Until the End of the World, The Unforgettable Fire, City of Blinding Lights, Vertigo - It's Only Rock and Roll, I'll Go Crazy If I Don't Go Crazy Tonight (remix), Sunday Bloody Sunday, MLK, Walk On - You'll Never Walk Alone, One, Amazing Grace, Where the Streets Have No Name, Ultraviolet, With or Without You, Moment of Surrender
John & Kristie's next U2 concert attendance: Qwest Field, Saturday, June 4th, 2011. See ya there!! ]]>
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Cirque du Soleil: Koozatag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2872009-10-24T18:37:12Z2010-07-16T00:38:55ZSANTA MONICA PIER, SANTA MONICA, CA :: We met with Kristie's Dad and Carol at the Santa Monica Pier and treated them to their first Cirque du Soleil show: Kooza. As expected, the performances were amazing, and we think Dad...John
SANTA MONICA PIER, SANTA MONICA, CA :: We met with Kristie's Dad and Carol at the Santa Monica Pier and treated them to their first Cirque du Soleil show: Kooza. As expected, the performances were amazing, and we think Dad and Carol were also impressed.
All of the Cirque shows feature a theme: a dream, a life, a love, a song, a struggle... or a death. Incredibly, Kooza may be the first Cirque show with "a circus" as the theme. It's a magical and twisted take on a circus - complete with a slick and slightly scary ringleader, a majestic king of fools, and clowns that actually made me cry with laughter - but the focus of the show was on the acrobatic performances. Emphasis on action and incredible feats, a little less on atmosphere. It was one of the better traveling Cirque shows that we've seen.
After the show, we strolled along the Pier, enjoying the night and debating endlessly about where to eat. Dad and Carol finally treated us to a tasty and healthy dinner at one of many vegan/raw restaurants along the 3rd Street Promenade. ]]>
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Eureka Dunestag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2862009-10-23T18:09:05Z2010-07-12T00:28:08ZDEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CA :: After exploring the Racetrack, I drove in pitch darkness to Eureka Dunes and camped there overnight. I was a little spooked out by being in an unfamiliar place, not knowing what creepy critters lingered...John
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CA :: After exploring the Racetrack, I drove in pitch darkness to Eureka Dunes and camped there overnight. I was a little spooked out by being in an unfamiliar place, not knowing what creepy critters lingered in the shadows of my small flashlight and in the blackness beyond the beam. So rather than pitching my tent outside, I slept in the back of the Escalade, comforted by the dome light and the satellite radio.
When dawn broke, I finally saw the mountain of sand dunes towering nearly 700 feet high before me. They're supposedly the tallest in the United States. I've always been impressed by images of these sinuous landscapes and of people walking along their pristine surfaces and sharp, crescent ridges. Until I can book a trip to the Sahara, this experience will have to do.
As I expected, it was neat wandering atop the huge dunes, watching the early light sculpt cool, curvy shadows among hills. Trudging up the steep, ever-slipping sand was not so neat, however. It was extremely exhausting. Imagine climbing the height of the Space Needle along a 30 degree incline of loose sand. I was nearly crawling on all fours, and each step forward included half a step sinking back. The sand also poured into my shoes and locked my feet as if they were cast in concrete. I had to empty them a few times during my hike to relieve the pain.
It was tough, but definitely worth it. And sliding back down the dunes was fun! Unfortunately, I seem to have lost a CF card containing the second half of this hike and the other stops in Death Valley. I think some of the better images were on that card... Oh well, another excuse to go back. Kristie and I often joke that if it isn't on the website, then it didn't happen! ]]>
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The Racetracktag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2852009-10-22T18:57:01Z2010-07-12T00:03:18ZDEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CA :: Kristie attended another education conference in Los Angeles, which we somehow magically coordinated with U2's concert at the Rose Bowl (photos soon). I tagged along on this trip as usual to support her, but...John
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CA :: Kristie attended another education conference in Los Angeles, which we somehow magically coordinated with U2's concert at the Rose Bowl (photos soon). I tagged along on this trip as usual to support her, but also to spend a couple days in Death Valley prior to the concert. I'm not sure if most people consider a stark and deadly desert to be an exciting destination, but I was thrilled! After making sure Kristie was settled in at the hotel, I loaded up the rental vehicle with my backpacking gear, several gallons of extra water, and a couple cans of fix-a-flat and then set off on the 300 mile roadtrip from the City of Angels to the Valley of Death.
We lucked out with our rental. I had reserved a 4X4 SUV for the rough terrain of Death Valley's backcountry, but upon arriving at LAX, the only vehicle the agency had remaining that fit the requirement was a brand new Escalade. Wow. I didn't mind cruising through the streets of LA in an ostentatious car - in fact, it was kind of fun! - but I would look foolish hauling that 3-ton luxury ride off-road! My suspicions were confirmed as I pulled into the Stovepipe Wells entrance of the park and asked to have my vehicle assessed for the 120+ miles of rocky and sandy terrain I intended to travel. Upon seeing the Escalade, a couple rangers pretty much laughed at me and told me to stick to the paved roadside attractions.
I thanked the rangers for their advice, but respectfully and recklessly ignored it. Onward to The Racetrack Playa, my first destination! This required a cruise up to Ubehebe Crater on approximately 45 miles of paved road, and then 25 miles on some pretty rough dirt road. The road is embedded with sharp rocks, bumpy channels, and sandy washes. I averaged about 15 miles per hour, so it took me about 90 minutes to traverse. I was being especially careful on my thin road tires. A lighter SUV with off-road tires could cruise through here in half the time or less. However, this part of the park is very isolated, and a traveler should always be prepared to survive the desert for a day or two on his own in case of a breakdown. I'm very, very glad I made it through without incident.
The Racetrack is famous for those mysterious boulders (the "sailing stones") that seem to move across the dry lakebed on their own, leaving twisted tracks in the dirt as evidence of their journies. Some claim magical or extraterrestrial powers are at play here, but the movements have been replicated in windtunnels with rain and 90 mph wind conditions, which suprisingly are not too uncommon in this region of the desert.
I was enchanted by the unique and stark landscape. The lakebed is about 2.8 miles long and perfectly level across the entire expanse. I parked at the north end of the lake, where an outcropping of boulders 73 feet high (The Grandstand) pokes above the surface. I then leisurely walked the length of the lake and back, enjoying the silence, solitude and strangeness of the scenery. As the sun set, I carefully made my way back up the dirt road to my next destination and campsite: Eureka Dunes. ]]>
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Larch Laketag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2842009-09-26T18:17:07Z2010-06-10T14:08:00ZWENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I was eager to return to the mountains and wanted to spend a night outdoors, but I didn't want to camp in the freezing cold. I also hoped to catch the season's changing colors, particularly...John
WENATCHEE NATIONAL FOREST, WA :: I was eager to return to the mountains and wanted to spend a night outdoors, but I didn't want to camp in the freezing cold. I also hoped to catch the season's changing colors, particularly the golden larches. My research led me to Larch Lake, which seemed like the ideal destination, but the 23 mile trail via Chiwaukum Creek would be too long for a day hike - and again, too cold to camp in comfort. Fortunately, a much shorter, 11 mile route originates from the Scottish Lakes High Camp. This plan fit the bill perfectly!
I called the privately owned camp and reserved one of its smaller cabins for one night. Early in the day, the very friendly owners and crew picked me up alongside US 2. Upon arriving at my cabin, I unloaded my overnight gear and immediately hit the trail, knowing I had limited daylight this time of year.
The trail from the camp basically climbs up to McCue Ridge, descends down to Chiwaukum Lake, climbs back up through scenic Ewing Basin, and up a little further to beautiful Larch Lake. The entire way was varied and interesting, changing from forest, to open rocky ridges, back to forest, to boulder-strewn prairie, and finally to a picturesque alpine lake. Brilliant reds and yellows lined the trail, but I think I was a couple weeks too early for the larches.
It was a gorgeous day, but I was very glad I decided not to camp. The winds picked up in the late afternoon and the temperatures dropped quickly. Whitecaps and plumes of mist blew off of the lake, and the trees moaned and creeked ominously as they swayed above me. I double-timed back to the safety and warm wood stove of my cabin! ]]>
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Our Niece, Shielletag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2832009-09-11T18:08:23Z2010-05-07T05:13:34ZVALLEY MEDICAL CENTER :: RENTON, WA :: On September 11th, 2009, our beautiful baby niece, Shielle Shivner, was born. As a stern, older brother, I rarely praise the actions of my younger sister. But I gotta say, with the pregnancy...John
VALLEY MEDICAL CENTER :: RENTON, WA :: On September 11th, 2009, our beautiful baby niece, Shielle Shivner, was born. As a stern, older brother, I rarely praise the actions of my younger sister. But I gotta say, with the pregnancy and birth of her perfect little daughter, she did all right. And although she was a brat as a sibling, I know she'll be wonderful as a mom.
Congratulations, Susan and Erik! ]]>
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Burg Eltztag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2822009-08-25T18:07:13Z2010-04-26T14:14:04ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 13 :: MOSELKERN, GERMANY :: The last stop on our European vacation was Burg Eltz, perhaps Germany's most famous and best preserved medieval castle (it's also Rick Steve's favorite). Built in the 12th century, the scenic structure...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 13 :: MOSELKERN, GERMANY :: The last stop on our European vacation was Burg Eltz, perhaps Germany's most famous and best preserved medieval castle (it's also Rick Steve's favorite). Built in the 12th century, the scenic structure sits strategically upon a large rock, towering ten stories and more than three hundred feet above the namesake river. From the parking lot, the castle is about two kilometers away via a steep road or a beautiful forested trail. We chose the road on the way down, and the more gradual trail on the way back up. There is also a van that shuttles visitors along the road, but the lines were long.
In the courtyard, we joined an English-speaking tour guide that took us through a dozen or so of the 80 rooms in the castle. These rooms that are open to the public are furnished and decorated much as they were centuries ago. After more than 30 generations, the original family still occupies the castle and reserves 1/3 of the rooms as their private residences.
The castle has only ever been attacked once during its 900 year history. The attackers were persuaded to call off their assault and there was no damage. Today, the castle's worst enemy is simply time. Parts of the structure and foundation have settled, and sections of the outer wall are splitting apart. Many of the outer walls were covered with scaffolding, and I was disappointed by the spoiled view.
After our tour of Burg Eltz, we were ready to return to our own castle for one more night before our long trip back home. It had been a wonderful two weeks in Poland and Germany! Although it will probably be a while, we look forward to visiting Europe again! ]]>
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Castle Hotel Auf Schoenburgtag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2812009-08-24T20:37:46Z2010-04-26T03:11:32ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: OBERWESEL, GERMANY :: While vacationing on the enchanting Rhine River, we decided it was well worth the splurge to stay in a real-life castle! The Schoenburg is perched high above the town of Oberwesel, and...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: OBERWESEL, GERMANY :: While
vacationing on the enchanting Rhine River, we decided it was well worth the splurge to stay in a real-life castle!
The Schoenburg is perched high above the town of Oberwesel, and has watched over the river valley since the 12th century. The castle was half-destroyed by the French in 1689, but was restored over several decades and at great expense in the late 19th century. Since 1957, it has served as a hotel and restaurant for tourists wanting to experience the romanticized life of medieval nobility.
We had an incredible view of the Rhine River and two other castles from our room, along with a private balcony overlooking the gorgeous courtyard. There was also an original toilet off the balcony. I lifted the lid and saw it emptied onto a bare patch of ground about thirty feet below. A roll of toilet paper next to the seat invited me, but I preferred to use the toilet in our bathroom with modern plumbing and a bit more privacy.
The staff was dressed in period outfits and were always very polite and helpful. The included breakfasts were amazing, but there wasn't much on the expensive gourmet dinner menu that appealed to Kristie. We dined in charming Bacharach instead, enjoying the opportunity to make another scenic drive across the castle's bridge and down the steep, narrow, twisting road into town.
From atop the castle's stony ramparts, the sunset view of the Rhine River snaking through the vineyards and villages was absolutely beautiful. Definitely a prime smooching spot! We loved our stay at Schoenburg Castle - a very memorable highlight of our trip!
Next post: Burg Eltz! ]]>
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St. Goar & Bacharachtag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2802009-08-24T19:26:05Z2010-04-04T18:45:52ZJohn
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: ST. GOAR & BACHARACH, GERMANY :: The last two days of our European vacation were spent on the most scenic stretch of the Rhine River, between Koblenz and Rudesheim. Along this major medieval thoroughfare, over thirty castles are perched upon the steep, green hillsides of the rolling river valley. Some of the castles are in ruin, but many still stand as museums and hotels. Beneath the castles, several charming towns are strung along the river. We explored the cobblestoned streets of Boppard, St. Goar and Oberwesel, but the most picturesque town was Bacharach (where most of these photos were taken).
In St. Goar, we saw the world's largest cuckoo clock and the world's largest beer stein. Inside a year-round Christmas shop, a very nice, elderly lady had no trouble convincing me to sample a dozen free shots of brandy from the vineyards on the surrounding hills. Apparently the tactic worked. Before I stumbled out of the store, a large case of the delicious wine was being shipped back home!
Next post: Castle Hotel Auf Shoenburg! ]]>
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Gelnhausentag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2792009-08-24T18:32:11Z2010-03-21T19:01:41ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: GELNHAUSEN, GERMANY :: From Kraków, we boarded an early morning flight to Frankfurt. After picking up our car from the airport, we experienced our first drive on Germany's famous autobahns. The dash on the Benz...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 12 :: GELNHAUSEN, GERMANY :: From Kraków, we boarded an early morning flight to Frankfurt. After picking up our car from the airport, we experienced our first drive on Germany's famous autobahns. The dash on the Benz displayed 155 kph (about 96 mph), but we were still being passed. Fahrvergnügen!
Our first stop was in the charming medieval town of Gelnhausen, where I lived between the ages of four through seven, some of the most formative years of my life. My dad was stationed here between 1980-1983, serving in the Army's 3rd Armored Division as an M1 Abrams tank mechanic.
We lived in Coleman Village, an American family housing area about a mile from the town. My first childhood memories are from Gelnhausen. I remember my first bike, snowball, bee-sting, school, sister, beer and kiss, along with many, many days of happiness and wonder. I had been yearning to revisit Gelnhausen for most of the 26 years I had been away.
As a toddler, I used to walk with my mom to and from the center of town on a scenic path along a tree-lined river. Downtown Gelnhausen is filled with narrow, cobblestoned streets and colorful timbered buildings, much as I remember it. Every corner is still worthy of a postcard. Flowers in the windows invited us into little shops filled with handcrafted toys, fresh bread and ice cream. I had an incredible time retracing the footsteps of my cherished childhood, and sharing that experience with Kristie.
Next stop: The Rhine! ]]>
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Wieliczka Salt Minetag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2782009-08-23T19:22:31Z2010-03-21T19:01:41ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: WIELICZKA, POLAND :: On our way back to Kraków, we stopped to tour the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Normally, we wouldn't be too excited to spend a couple hours deep underground, but just about everything seems...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: WIELICZKA, POLAND :: On our way back to Kraków, we stopped to tour the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Normally, we wouldn't be too excited to spend a couple hours deep underground, but just about everything seems fun and uplifting after a day at a death camp.
The Wieliczka Salt Mine actually proved to be quite interesting. It is one of the oldest mines in the world and is included on UNESCO's list of World Heritage sites. For over 700 years, miners used their hands and simple tools to carve an enormous labyrinth of caverns stretching over 300 kilometers long and over 1000 feet deep. To pass the time, the miners and artists sculpted impressive statues and an entire cathedral in the translucent rock. The "tile" floors, the "brick" walls, and even the "crystal" in the chandeliers are made of pure salt.
The air in the caverns is well-ventilated and kept very pure by the natural salinity of the environment. An actual hospital exists in the lower levels where patients can recover from respiratory ailments. The chambers are also famous for their accoustics, and concerts are regularly held there. Some extremely large caverns are famous for containing the first underground hot air balloon ride and the first underground bungee jump. Famous visitors to the mines include Copernicus, Goethe, Mendeleev, John Paul II, Bill Clinton, and of course, John & Kristie!
Next post: Gelnhausen, Germany! ]]>
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Auschwitz-Birkenautag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2772009-08-23T18:16:36Z2010-03-21T19:01:41ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: OŚWIĘCIM, POLAND :: Among the symbols of the holocaust, the sign above the gate to Auschwitz concentration camp perhaps best encapsulates the evil and deception of the Nazis. The phrase "arbeit macht frei" translates to...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 11 :: OŚWIĘCIM, POLAND :: Among the symbols of the holocaust, the sign above the gate to Auschwitz concentration camp perhaps best encapsulates the evil and deception of the Nazis. The phrase "arbeit macht frei" translates to "work makes you free." Of course this message, in the literal sense, was a cruel lie. It was part of a carefully planned campaign to conceal the systematic extermination of 17 million people from the victims, the Germans, and the entire world.
We walked under this sign to enter Auschwitz I, the first of three camps constructed in the area that included Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz. The buildings at Auschwitz are now a museum, but were originally used to imprison, torture and kill dissidents, intellectuals and enemy soldiers. The tragic experience of the victims is portrayed via haunting photographs and artifacts, including large rooms filled with countless shoes, eyeglasses, suitcases, and human hair. The vile torture devices and cells have been preserved, including starvation rooms, standing rooms and suffocation rooms. These were later used to experiment with Zyklon-B, the cyanide-based pesticide that was first used at Auschwitz and soon used in gas chambers at Birkenau.
Although there were two crematoriums and room for 30,000 prisoners at Auschwitz I, its capacity was soon exceeded. Construction began at nearby Birkenau, the largest concentration camp built by the Nazis, where approximately 1.1 million people would be exterminated. As with most concentration camps, the majority of these victims were Jewish. 960,000 Jews and 140,000 ethnic Poles were killed at Birkenau alone, for no other reason than their ethnicity, religion, sexual orientation, or a disability.
Trains would unload victims directly in camp, where most of the women, children, elderly and sick were immediately directed to "shower" in the gas chambers. Healthy men were forced to hard labor, 12 hours per day while starving. Their average life expectancy was six months.
Witnessing the immense size of Birkenau had the greatest impact on us. We walked the full kilometer of railroad track that crosses the compound, passing the remnants of 300 barracks used to house over 200,000 prisoners. At the height of its operation, Birkenau could gas and cremate 20,000 people per day.
Although it's deeply depressing, it's absolutely critical that places like Auschwitz-Birkenau are preserved to be experienced by current and future generations. Just as we celebrate the greatest of human achievements, it's equally important to be reminded of our capacity for hate and evil, so that we never allow such abhorrent events to occur again.
Next post: Wieliczka Salt Mine ]]>
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Krakówtag:www.johnandkristie.com,2009://2.2762009-08-22T18:48:36Z2010-03-21T19:01:41ZEUROPEAN VACATION DAY 10 :: KRAKOW, POLAND :: After Kristie completed her Business Week program in Gdynia, we flew south to Kraków where we enjoyed two days of fantastic sightseeing in and around the city. Kraków is the former capital...John
EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 10 :: KRAKOW, POLAND :: After Kristie completed her Business Week program in Gdynia, we flew south to Kraków where we enjoyed two days of fantastic sightseeing in and around the city. Kraków is the former capital of Poland, where ancient kings and priests ruled from the castle and cathedral on Wawel Hill. The city is full of history and culture, much of which is proudly preserved in its buildings and traditions. Although Warsaw is the country's current capital, most Poles believe Kraków is where the nation's heart still resides.
We stayed at the Sheraton, and our room had a great view of the Vistula River and Wawel Castle. The most popular attractions, including the Main Market Square, were a very short walk away. We had access to the convenient Club Lounge, a private area with complimentary food and beverages, including fresh fruit for Kristie and endless beer for me!
Our first destination was the climbable tower of St. Mary's Basilica. At the top, we took in a 360-degree view of the city and surrounding landscape. Directly below us was Europe's largest medieval square, Rynek Główny, where vendors, performers and tourists were just starting to emerge. The square would soon become packed with entertainment and shops that were fun to watch and explore.
In addition to being a major tourist attraction, Kraków is also home to several universities. The population is very young and relatively cosmopolitan, and thus, there was a large variety of restaurants, including a great vegetarian place we found called Green Way. Kraków is also notorious for having the largest concentration of pubs and nightclubs of any UNESCO World Heritage site. We saw ads for bars that didn't open until 11:00 PM and closed at 7:00 AM the next day! Unlike Northern Poland, English was often displayed on signs and spoken fluently in Kraków, making it much easier for us to find our way and ask for information.
In order to receive a quick history and cultural overview of Kraków, Kristie insisted we join a bike tour. This was a lot of fun and very informative. Our guide narrated our trip as we pedaled through the charming city streets and parks. The stops included Poland's oldest university (where Copernicus and John Paul II enrolled), Kraków's legendary fire-breathing dragon, the remnants of the old Jewish ghetto, Oscar Schindler's apartment and factory, and recognizable locations from Spielberg's movie (which we watched again a few days prior to leaving for Poland). Before the war, there were 65,000 Jews in Kraków, accounting for 25% of its population. Today, there are approximately 300 Jews in a city of 750,000.
On our second day in Kraków, we hired a private guide to take us to the Auschwitz concentration camp and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Upon returning to the city, we visited Wawel Castle during sunset and walked the Rynek Główny (Main Market Square) again at night. Both were beautiful and romantic. We fell in love with Kraków and wish we had more time there. It's definitely on our list of places to return.