EUROPEAN VACATION DAY 5 :: HEL, POLAND :: When looking across the sea from the shores of Gdynia, you can just barely spot a strip of land that seems to stretch half-way across the horizon. This narrow peninsula is over 21 miles long and at times is only 300 feet wide. Both sides are lined with sandy beaches, with pockets of forest in between. Tiny towns catering to tourists and world-class windsurfers are strung along the stretch. At the end of the peninsula, there is a place where you can go no further. A town where a single road enters, and no others lead out... This place is Hel.

And I've been there and back!

I actually took a ferry there and enjoyed exploring the little town. There were tons of people crowding the shops and restaurants, and the beaches were packed. I actually wanted to reach the very tip of the peninsula, so I quickly rented a bike and headed through the woods in the general direction I thought I should go.

I immediately started seeing strange structures along the trail I had selected. An old pillbox bunker. A ruined concrete tower. Upon reaching the beach, I saw an area cordoned off by barbed wire, enclosing a large number of military vehicles. I hadn't really studied the maps or guidebooks for this area, so I wasn't sure where I was at. On the beach, I saw the remnants of a mounted artillery bunker, which clearly hadn't been used in a long while. I parked my bike, climbed on top of the bunker, and started to explore the rusted controls.

Soon after, I heard shouts coming from the bunker tunnels beneath me. At first I was relieved, thinking it would be some other tourists. But then something rattled loudly on the huge steel door and it swung open. A soldier stepped out and I just froze. He saw me and then barked some orders down the tunnel. I nearly soiled my pants. Two other soldiers came through the door, gazed down the beach, and then started inspecting the artillery. One soldier unloaded a long belt of large-caliber ammo off his shoulder and layed it on top of the bunker. They noticed me, but just carried on as if I wasn't there. My panic turned to puzzlement. I backed away, worried that perhaps I had entered a military base and these soldiers were a part of a training exercise.

But I knew something was off. Their uniforms had a dated look, although I didn't know how the modern Polish Army dressed. Just to be safe, I smiled, stepped off the battery, and got on my bike, heading back into the forest in a different direction.

I came across another artillery bunker with a larger group of soldiers. Nearby were even more soldiers with German Shepards that were barking around a few old jeeps. They noticed me, but didn't say anything. I kept going, seeking a main road to take me back into town. I encountered another group, and this time I noticed American flags and stars. What in Hel was going on? I now saw other tourists, taking photos and interacting with the soldiers. So I took some photos too, still confused. I biked further and finally came across a large banner that read, "D-DAY IN HEL - DISCOVERY HISTORIA TV". I recognized the Discovery Channel logo. Another jeep passed me, with a couple uniformed guys shouting through a bullhorn and passing out pamphlets. I took one and saw the week's events, apparently including a large-scale re-enactment of D-Day or some other battle on the beaches of Hel. Phew.

Whatever it was, it was pretty impressive. I believe over 400 uniformed volunteers were storming the town and beaches, driving their World War II era vehicles and conducting various exhibitions. In the main town, a convoy of three jeeps parked in front of a restaurant. A few MPs hopped out and detained a drunk GI that was causing problems. It was all an act (I think), and the civilians were getting a kick out of it. Vendors were selling US Army shirts, hats, and other war paraphernalia.

It was a fun and exciting day, topped with another lody (ice cream). Yes, believe it or not, they serve ice cream in Hel. Despite my initial scare and what you might have heard, Hel is actually a very nice place to visit!

Next post: Gdynia Business Week!