ALPINE LAKES WILDERNESS, WA :: The guide books recommend three to four days for a hike up to Tuck and Robin Lakes. Roundtrip, the trail is over 16 miles long and climbs 3200 feet. On paper, those statistics don't seem too daunting, and so I believed two days would be plenty of time.

After hiking it, however, I think perhaps the guide books are right. It's one of the steepest and most difficult trails I've ever been on. I've done day hikes that come close, but those were without 30+ pounds of gear on my back.

The trail begins at the Deception Pass trailhead. The first four miles are level, skirting scenic Hyas Lake with views of Cathedral Rock looming far above. After a half mile of switchbacks, there's a sign that marks the route to Tuck and Robin Lakes. This trail covers another half mile of level terrain before the pain.

The first climb gains about 900 feet over 1.5 miles. There aren't very many switchbacks on this segment. It's mostly a rough staircase of loose, dusty soil, roots and rocks. It reminded me very much of the steep trail to Mailbox Peak. I was getting pretty tired at this point, but the forest began to clear away and offered great views of Mount Daniel that encouraged me onward. The views only improved through the rest of the hike.

I had caught up with a group at Tuck Lake, and we debated the route up to Robin. The Green Trails map shows a steep route straight up a 900 foot gully on the Eastern shore of Tuck Lake. The problem was, we couldn't find a way to get to it without swimming. A trail description I had printed out suggested a route South-East from Tucks Pot. We found the cairns for this option leading up another gully, and so we took it. My trekking poles were pretty useless here. The "trail" was a scramble over large boulders and through a tangle of thick brush, so I constantly needed my hands to pull myself up or to keep the branches out of my face.

Five and a half hours after leaving my car, I had finally made it to Robin Lake at 6200 feet. I was dead tired, beat and exhausted, but it was worth it. The landscape around Robin Lake is gorgeous! The sun was out and the lake was sparkling amidst the sculpted rocks. Immediately, however, the mountain goats and mosquitoes found me, and I had to deal with them all evening and the next morning. The goats I could manage, although they tried to steal my food twice. It was the mosquitoes that wore on me.

And the thunderstorm.

After I setup my tent and began airing out my sweaty clothes, the blue sky was replaced by a dark bank of clouds in seemingly just a few minutes. I heard the rumbles growing louder and louder, and then saw the flashes crack through the sky around me. It began to rain and I was more than a little nervous. I didn't want to be in my tent (with the metal poles), so I put on my rain jacket and sat it out, trying to stay low and dry in my rubber Teva sandals. Fortunately, the skies cleared up again after an hour, but it was a long and worrisome wait.

The goats and mosquitoes quickly returned, so I brewed a cup of Starbuck's VIA instant coffee (which is perfect for camping and very good) and retreated into my tent. I was safe and cozy while reading "Old Man's War" on my iPhone.

Later that evening, the skies turned a pretty pink and purple as the sun set. I wandered around Upper and Lower Robin Lakes and took a ton of pictures. At night, the photons from a billion stars and galaxies touched my eyes and kindled my imagination. I slept and dreamt well, but was woken early the next morning by the bleats, grunts and trotting of several goats around my tent. I looked outside and saw a couple babies, and figured they were worth getting up for.

One more day at beautiful Robin Lake would have been nice for my spirit and tired legs, but I had to get back. I reluctantly packed my bag and tried to soak in all the scenery, wondering if I would ever endure the painful slog again to return. If so, I'll make certain it's during a season when the thunderstorms and mosquitoes aren't as prevalent. They were really bad. Warning: I included a photo of my bitten arm below.