outer top shadow
shim
Mt. St. Helens shim John & Kristie

inner bottom shadow inner corner shadow
hikes :: Sunday, September 5, 2004
Mt. St. Helens
MT. ST. HELENS NATIONAL VOLCANIC MONUMENT, WA :: Earlier this year, Jessica secured several permits to climb Mt. St. Helens, allowing Jayson, Jacob, Pat, Cheri and myself to summit the still-active volcano. The peak once reached 9,760 feet, but the eruption in 1980 pulverized the entire north face and blew 1,400 feet off the top, leaving a horseshoe-shaped crater rim at 8,363 feet. That's where we stood for our group photo, smiling proudly for our accomplishment, yet feeling humbled by the remnants of nature's awesome power.

We met at Jack's Restaurant the day before the climb. We had planned to camp at the Climber's Bivuoac at the trailhead, but a lady told us several campsites had become available at Cougar Park. It has a much nicer, lakeside location and features a "comfort station," complete with real sinks, toilets and showers.

After we selected our campsites, we spent the rest of the afternoon in the Ape Caves. The Ape Caves are the longest intact lava tubes discovered in North America. They formed 2,000 years ago during a rare basalt lava flow. The cave runs unbroken for just over two miles. We chose the longer of the two routes available to hikers, and spent nearly 90 minutes in pitch blackness, negotiating large boulders, slimy walls, low ceilings, narrow passages and large caverns. It was pretty cool, both figuratively and literally! As long as you have a bright, dependable light source and careful footing, you should be safe. However, we ran across one couple stranded under the only light shaft into the tunnel. Their gas lantern had lost its flame. Our trusty Eagle Scout, Pat, offered a few matches to get it lit again. Another girl had cut her head on a low, overhanging rock. She had a large bandage on her brow and her friends were helping her recover.

We had a little rain back at camp, but a strategically placed tarp kept our cooking area dry. By the time the stars were out, the skies were clear. We cooked our meals, debated politics and paleontology, and hit our sleeping bags fairly early. Our wakeup time was set for 6:30 AM. I had a strong cell phone signal and was able to call Kristie a couple times to say goodnight.

The next morning we were all feeling pretty good and ready to take on the volcano. The trail gains 4,500 feet over five miles. It starts gently in the woods, gradually gaining elevation over two miles until you hit the tree line. There, the pretty sylvan world suddenly gives way to a stark, rocky moonscape. The trail whithers away and large posts serve as markers to guide you the rest of the way. After a seemingly endless scramble over large, sharp-edged boulders, we looked back to see we were above the clouds. We could see the peaks of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Adams poking through the cumulostratus blanket. Above us, the crater rim finally came into view, lined with barely discernable specks - these were people, still a little over a mile away.

This last mile took the longest. It's steep, and the ground is loose, composed of pumice, sand and ash. Fortunately, it was fairly damp from the weather the day before, so the sliding was minimized. Still, our tired legs could only manage baby-steps as our lungs burned in the thin air. I knew if I just looked down and endured the pain for a little more, I'd reach the top and it would all be worth it.

And wow, was it ever! The view is absolutely breathtaking! I tried to capture it in the panoramic photo below (clicking on the photo will load a much larger version), but it really can't do it any justice. The air was so clear and we could see for hundreds of miles. The cold wind blowing up the crater had me scrambling in my pack for my extra clothes and wishing I had brought some gloves. The temperature difference between both sides of the rim was unbelievable. On the southern slope, the air was toasty and the ground was hot. But standing on the cold rim for more than a minute was practically unbearable.

We stayed a couple hours up there, and I think our actual climb took about five and a half hours - three and a half hours to get to the top, and a couple to get back down. I drank nearly three liters of water and nearly another liter of Gatorade, and likely sweated out the same gallon of fluid during the hike. It's very tough. If you plan to do it, expect it to take between six to ten hours.

Check out more pictures at Jake's site: www.seattlecasbah.com

This entry has been viewed times.
Share ::
 
 
shim
outer bottom shadow
copyright
shim